Twin Bed Frame with Storage from IKEA (Review)

A while ago, Fred posted about my sisters’ house fire, last October 31st.  Since that event, Amy (the homeowner) has lived at Jocie’s and Ethan’s and Lori has lived with us.   Well, nine months later, the reconstruction is still not complete, but we have other friends coming to stay with us while they find housing in the area.  Realizing we had a double-booking for our guestroom in August, we decided to clear out our office (4th bedroom) and give that to Lori, so she could start buying her replacement furniture… thus making the actual guestroom available for the guests who were hoping the bed was included.

So for the last week or so, I’ve watched Lori slave over a hot Internet, looking for furniture that was inexpensive but functional, suitable to her minimalist tastes, and available on short notice.  She settled on a handful of top contenders, visited them in stores, and finalized on the IKEA ODDA twin, a platform bed with a flip-up frame and a storage compartment underneath.  Price: $199 plus tax.

After a second trip to IKEA – this one involving me with my minivan – she brought it home and spent the afternoon assembling it.  For what it cost, she made an excellent choice.

IKEA ODDA Twin Platform Bed

The bed is really quite sturdy.  The only parts that seem a little flimsy are the wooden cross-supports (shown on the right).  They’re joined (glued) slats, not solid pieces.  But they will probably hold up just fine since there are 15 of them sharing the weight; and if one did need to be replaced, it would be very easy and inexpensive to do so.

The hinges on both sides hold the bed in the open position, and there are two straps on the frame that allow you to open and close the storage unit easily and gradually (so you’re not slamming it or pinching your fingers).  The entire storage unit is self-contained – ie. it has a “floor” - and thus protects stored items from dust, bugs and whatever else.

Lori opted to buy her mattress elsewhere, and the unintentional (I’m sure) benefit to this bed’s design is that it does not require a box spring.  The top-frame and cross bars support the mattress adequately on their own.

Of course, the lack of boxspring in addition to the already-low-profile of this bed means that the whole thing, bedding and all, stands only 18″ high.  So this would not be the best bed for an in-law suite (unless you WANTED your mother-in-law to get stuck there – haha!).  But, it is a terrific toddler-bed-alternative for a young child.  No way she’d get hurt even if she did roll off accidentally.  You wouldn’t have to replace it till she hit her teens (and not even then, if she stayed as small as my sister still is).  And you could store all her out-of-season or “she’ll-grow-into-them” clothes right there in the bottom.

One caveat: you would want to make sure your child understood that it would not be funny to try to close it while someone was leaning in to retrieve something from storage.  I’ve already had that conversation with our two boys, just so I know they’re clear.  Aside from that safety item, it’s a great bed for a kid.

In a guestroom, it could easily take the place of a day-bed, with a few large pillows added along the wall for the “sofa” look.  And extra blankets, linens, and the like fit nicely inside.

As Lori has discovered, the single-unit storage area gives a great deal of versatility for what she can store, since she’s not confined to the measurements of dresser drawers.  And while her dresser hasn’t arrived yet, she’s managed to tuck away most of her things without it.

So, yes, well worth the price she paid.  And if IKEA is still stocking this bed by the time our next child needs one, it’s at the top of my list!

Related Link:

• Ikea’s ODDA Twin Bed Product Information Page

Removing Yellowjacket Wasp Nests

Yellowjackets are aggressive, predatory wasps. They are smaller than bees and usually have black and yellow coloring. Yellowjackets prey on insects but will also forage for sweets and meats. They will setup nests underground, and other protected areas like attics, sheds and hollow walls. Nests can get as large as a basketball but are commonly abandoned for more protected places during winter.

Ways to Control Yellowjacket Populations

There are several ways to remove Yellowjackets or encourage them to go elsewhere. But be careful as these wasps have painful stingers.

• Trash. Keep trash containers closed and make sure to empty/clean them regularly. No food source means no Yellowjackets.

• Spray Insecticide. This tip goes along with removing trash. The insecticide will kill off potential food sources encourage the Yellowjackets to look somewhere else.

• Remove standing water. Standing water will attract insects and then Yellowjackets will follow.

• Wasp Killer Spray. Locate the nest during the day and note the different entry points. Spray the nest and entry points at night when all members will be inside the nest (plus they can’t see as well). Use a wasp killer that workers will bring back to the queen. When the queen dies, so will the nest. Find a spray with some range. The extra distance keeps you farther away from the wasps. Remember that wasp killer can have damaging effects to people, animals and even grass.

• Yellowjacket Traps. Traps provide a pesticide free way of removing yellow jackets. Take 5 gallon bucket and fill with soapy water. Hang bait several inches above the water. Enclose the trap with a wide mesh to keep other animals out. The Yellowjackets will be attracted by the bait but fall into the soapy water as they attempt to fly off. Choice of bait is important. Use a high protein bait like canned white chicken meat in the spring and early summer. Use a high sugar bait like orange soda later in the summer.

Benefits of Yellowjackets

Don’t hate on Yellowjackets. If the nest is located somewhere remote (people and pets won’t disturb), leave them alone. Yellowjackets feed caterpillars, beetles, flies and grubs to their young. And play a role in pollinating plants.

The Great Sunflower Project

Yellowjackets are not to be confused with bees. But I wanted to spread the word about The Great Sunflower Project and this seems like a good spot. You may have heard that bees are disappearing and nobody knows why. This is alarming because they are the principal pollinator for many crops. Well if you want to help and get free sunflower seeds, check out The Great Sunflower Project. Sign up and they send you free seeds. All you have to do is enter some data online. Check out their site for more information.

What do you think? How do you remove wasps? Will you participate in The Great Sunflower Project?

Image of Yellowjacket courtesy of Radu P

How to Change the Air Filter in a Lawnmower (Example: Craftsman & Murray Mowers, Briggs & Stratton Engines)

Performing full lawnmower maintenance at least once a year is essential to keep your mower in top running condition.  This article is the second in a series of lawnmower maintenance articles that together cover complete lawnmower care.  While this article focuses on changing the air filter in a push lawnmower, the basic principles can be applied to a riding mower and all other 4-cycle gas powered yard equipment (including such things as a pressure washer or chipper shredder, for instance). 

We’re performing maintenance on both a Craftsman 6.5 horsepower (HP) self-propelled mower, and a lighter duty 4.5 HP Murray mower.  Both push mowers are powered by Briggs & Stratton 4-cycle engines.

Changing the air filter in a lawn mower is easy for even the most novice DIYer and is the most basic thing you can do to improve your mower’s fuel efficiency.  Aside from the time required for a trip to the store to buy the replacement part, the entire operation can be completed in under 10 minutes.  One note before we begin:  These instructions are for general knowledge only and are not endorsed by the manufacturer.  You should always follow the maintenance instructions that were included with your lawnmower.

How to Change a Lawnmower Air Filter

Step 1: Locate the air filter.  On our Craftsman mower, the filter is located under a black plastic cover on the side of the engine, secured by a single flat-head screw to the crankcase [see picture to the right].  On the Murray, the filter is encased in a black plastic dish and cover setup, with a single screw that runs down into the crank case [not shown]. 

Step 2: Unscrew the filter cover and determine whether the air filter needs to be replaced.  Our Craftsman lawnmower uses a standard paper type filter (shown on the left in the picture below)  You can see from the picture that it is in dire need of replacement.  On the Murray, the filter is a sponge material (shown on the right in the picture below).  The sponge is caked with oil and should be cleaned or replaced.

Step 3: Purchase a matching filter or clean the filter for re-use. 

Standard paper filters should always be replaced with a new one.  You can find the right filter for your lawnmower at most home improvement and hardware stores.  Remember that even if your lawnmower is a store brand, the engine is likely a known brand (e.g., Briggs and Stratton).  If you can’t find the right parts searching by lawnmower model number, try using the engine brand and model #.

If a sponge filter is dirty but in otherwise good shape, it can be cleaned using a mild grease cutting detergent.  Soak the sponge in warm soapy water and rub until clean.  Some authors have suggested running the sponge filter through the dishwasher.  In our opinion, this is overkill; and it runs the risk of getting lawnmower oil on your dishes and flatware!  The picture to the right shows our Murray sponge air filter and its compartment case cleaned up using dawn dish detergent.  Rinse thoroughly, and allow the sponge to dry completely before reinstalling.

Step 4: Clean the area around the air filter chamber and ensure no debris enters the engine.  It is not necessary to get the area totally clean, simply wiping with a dry cloth is sufficient.  Ensure debris does not enter the engine as this could damage internal parts.

Step 5: Reseat the air filter in its original compartment, ensuring it is seated corrected (paper air filters are designed to for optimal air flow in only one direction).

Step 6: Start the engine.  The engine should be running at least as smooth as it was before the filter change.  If something doesn’t sound right, check the filter to ensure it is seated properly. 

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That concludes the second article in our lawnmower maintenance series.  Cheers to a healthy lawn… and lawn mower!

What do you think?  Is your lawnmower’s air filter overdue for a change?

How to Frame with Steel (Metal) Studs

My brother and his wife are right in the middle of renovating their kitchen. They are at the framing and drywalling step right now and I got a chance to help out installing steel studs.

Steel studs make a great alternative to wood. They have some big benefits (that I’ll write about later) and are easy to install. This post will go over how to install steel studs and the tools required.

Tools Needed for Installing Steel Studs

The tools required for this project are commonplace and easy to use. They include: measuring tape, metal snips, drill, sheet metal pliers (or just wide mouthed pliers), level, and locking pliers. No major power tools necessary. The metal snips are used to cut the studs to size. The drill is for inserting the self-tapping screws (no need for pre-drilling). And the locking pliers will act as a second set of hands to keeps things in place.

How to Install Steel Studs

Begin by attaching track to the ceiling and floor. Track is wider than the studs so they can fit together. If you’re working on concrete you’ll need to pre-drill the holes with a masonry bit and use masonry screws. Place screws about every 3 feet. Overlap corners by notching the flange of one track. And provide a 6″ overlap for long, straight track runs.

Use the metal snips to cut the track / studs as needed. Measure each piece for a tight fit at the top and bottom. Be careful of sharp edges and use gloves to protect your hands.

Use the locking pliers to hold studs in place while you insert 1/2″ self-tapping screws. Make sure you don’t strip the screw hole which can weaken the joint. Use the level to keep everything straight and balanced. Bend pieces with the metal pliers to create headers for doors or windows and help create bulkheads.

The studs will have knock-outs for running utilities. Insert plastic bushings to protect any electrical wires from sharp edges. Make sure to use the correct electrical boxes designed for steel studs. Don’t try to nail into the steel. Instead, place wooden nailers around doors and windows to nail into later.

What do you think? Was this article helpful? Ever used steel studs?

Free Harbor Freight 15% Off Coupon

I just wanted to spread the word, Harbor Freight has issued a coupon for 15% off coupon to entice people to register for their mailing list. The coupon is valid from 24 July 2008 until 24 August 2008 at Harbor Freight retail stores only. It has the typical limitations (one per customer, cannot be stacked) but it is applicable to sale items. Here’s to saving money!

How to Change the Oil in a Push Lawnmower (Example: Craftsman, Murray, Briggs & Stratton Engines)

Regular lawnmower maintenance is essential to ensure your lawnmower stays in top running condition. You should perform complete maintenance on your mower at least once per cutting season to maximize the mower’s life, and to ensure your grass is cut perfectly every time.

This article is one in a series of maintenance articles that provide complete coverage of lawnmower care.   While not the most glamorous of topics, its a job many of us put off far too long.  Want to learn more about mower maintenance?  We’ll also teach you how to sharpen a lawnmower blade using a grinder, how to replace a mower’s air filter, and how to check and/or replace a lawnmower spark plug.

We’ll be performing maintenance on two mowers: a Murray with a 4.5 horsepower (HP) Briggs and Stratton engine, and a Craftsman self-propelled push mower with a 6.5 HP B&S engine.

Note that this tutorial is for general information only and isn’t a replacement for the maintenance instructions included in the mower. You should always follow those instructions to maintain your mower properly.

Finally, lawnmowers aren’t the only thing in your garage or shed that should be maintained this way. Any gas powered yard equipment, like pressure washers, chipper shredders, and string trimmers require regular maintenance to keep them running smooth. Most of the principals in this series will apply to all of these types of equipment.

Changing the Oil in a Push Lawnmower

Changing the oil in any gas powered 4-cycle engine ensures the engine stays well lubricated. This keeps the cylinder and piston moving freely against once another, and ensures that scarring doesn’t occur on either, increasing the life of the engine. Changing the oil also offers more immediate benefits: it reduces overall gas consumption, and allows the engine to burn more efficiently, which is better for the environment.

Step 1: Determine whether the engine has an oil drain plug, or if the oil must be drained by turning the mower over. Most push mowers have no drain plug and will need to be turned over to empty the oil.

Step 2:If the mower has a drain plug, unscrew the plug and let the oil drain into a funnel down into a pan.  If the mower has no drain plug, unscrew the oil cap, and tip the mower away from the side that the air filter is on.  This reduces the chances of the air filter being drenched in oil, which can occur on some engines.

Allow the oil to drain for 45-60 seconds, or until very little is flowing out of the mower.  A typical oil change will drain about 3/4 of the oil in the mower.  The remaining 1/4 will remain inside the engine, clinging to internal parts.

Step 3: Identify the right oil for your engine.  In some cases, the engine will have the oil type listed on a tag on the engine.  The maintenance manual will always include the right type of oil to use.  Many 4-cycle, small Briggs and Stratton engines take SAE 30 4-cycle Small Engine Oil available at home improvement and auto supplies stores everywhere.

Step 4:  FIll the oil resevoir with oil.  Be sure to fill only until the dipstick registers “full.”  If you overfill, the lawnmower will billow white smoke as the excess oil is burned off during combustion.  An engine that is slightly overfilled will exhibit this behavior going up and down hills.  Note in the picture below that the top of the Craftsman dipstick indicates a 20oz. capacity; however, this is an “empty” capacity, not a “change capacity.”  In this case, we started by adding 10oz., then checking the dipstick every 2-3 oz. until it registered full.

Step 5: Perform the remainder of your maintenance, or start the mower if you are done with maintenance.  The mower should be running smooth (or at least smoother than it was running).  If the mower isn’t running smooth, check these steps and ensure you’ve done everything correctly.  Changing the oil a second time likely won’t solve the problem unless you’ve made a mistake.  You’ll notice if you check the oil again that it has turned brown.  This is because the new oil and old oil have mixed together.  This is OK and is not indicative of a bad change.

What do you think?  How often do you change your lawnmower’s oil?  Are you due for a change and putting it off?

Before & After: Dining Room Update by Amy @ Cape Cod Makeover

This week’s Before & After is brought to you by Amy @ Cape Cod Makeover.  Amy and hubby recently redid the dining room in their Wauwatosa, WI cape cod.  Amy submitted more than 20 pictures! I picked a handful to include in this post; you can see the whole set of them on Picasa.

As with many projects in our own home, the after pictures of Amy’s dining room don’t show the ultimate end product… She writes in her submission that they eventually want to move from vinyl to a more permanent surface, and remove the dividing wall between the dining room and living room.  We too make interim renovations to get us through until we can afford or find the time to do what we really want.  But that’s what makes home improvement fun.  You’re never done… you’re just one project closer.  [I couldn't resist].

Based on Amy’s submission, OPC will make a donation to Habitat for Humanity for $25 in her honor.  Amy is also now entered into our contest for a $50 gift card to the home improvement store of her choice!  Without further ado…

Cape Cod Dining Room Makeover by Amy

We bought a 1964 Cape Cod style house in Wauwatosa, WI exactly one year ago.  The house had great bones, but needed a lot of updating, so we started a blog to document our before and afters.
 
One of our favorite rooms to show off the before/after is our dining room.  The dining room originally was covered in kelly green shag carpet, with mint green walls and very old, formal style window draperies.  There was a half wall of wooden spindles that separated the room from the living room.
 
First, we painted the walls a tan color (Behr’s Gobi Desert), and pulled the carpet up to find the original flooring – YUK!  We installed a new subfloor and vinyl tiles, with the hope of eventually upgrading those.   It was time for those wooden spindles to come down!  We sawed them off, and resanded and stained the wooden ledge.  Our goal is to get rid of the now half-wall to open the space up even more.

Then there were a few more cosmetic changes, including getting rid of the chandelier (again, likely the original) and figuring out what to do about the doorbell that was smack dab in the middle of the wall.  We decided to make some fabric panels to cover the doorbell and I also sewed curtain ties to match my table runner. 
 
Every thing in this room we did ourselves with the help of family members and a sewing machine.

Before Picture:

After Pictures:

More pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/capecodmakeover/DiningRoomBeforeAfter

Thanks from OPC

Amy, thanks so much for submitting your article for our event!  Your dining room transformation is excellent… Good luck on future renovations!

Habitat for Humanity Quick Fact

Instead of a quick fact this week, take a look at this inspiring video from Habitat’s web site that gives an overview of their mission.  Click the image below to open up a new Windows Media Viewer.

If you’d like to match our donation to Habitat, you can make a quick $25.00 donation by following this link. Its quick, easy, and you’ll feel great knowing you’re helping an amazing organization.

Support Our Summer 2008 Event for Habitat

We’ve been blessed with tremendous support from the houseblogging community so far this Summer.  We hope you’ll consider submitting an article for one of the remaining weekends! Just e-mail us at oneprojectcloser@gmail.com with your article in just about any format.

If you’d like to add a sidebar graphic to your blog showing your support for the event, you can find a collection of graphics here.  If you need a graphic in a different size/color, just let us know!

What do you think?  Leave a comment here and then head over to Amy’s side to see more great progress (currently on their kitchen!)

Schluter Shower System

Last winter, I finished remodeling my master bathroom. What started out as a plan to replace the vanity quickly became an entirely new bathroom. What happened? One day into the work we discovered mold growing on parts of the drywall behind the sink, and a small leak.

But let’s cut to the chase. Once the bathroom had been gutted and we began to prep for the new tile, Jocie and I heard about the Schluter Shower System. Basically, it is a kit that provides materials for waterproofing and grading your new shower.

The Kerdi membrane is a polyethylene mat used to waterproof your shower. It goes up similar to wall paper using a thin set mortar and is rather easy to install. They even provide pre-fab corners for the tough spots. The only stipulations are to maintain a two inch overlap and keep it as wrinkle free as possible.

When this was demonstrated for contractors, they lined a cardboard box and filled it with water. Six hours later, the box was still dry. Another big plus: even if water gets past the tile, the membrane will channel that water to the drain. No more mold for me!

The other major advantage to this kit was the pre-sloped shower tray. This eliminated having to poor concrete and try to slope the floor myself. It’s lightweight and also goes down on a bed of mortar.

My shower is 5 foot long (used to be a tub) about 30 inches deep and tiled 7 feet high. The kit (membrane, corners, shower tray, curb and drain) cost me about $470 from a local distributor.

What do you think? Is it worth the cost? Is poring a shower floor easier than I think? Has anyone else used these products?

Image courtesy of Tina Lawson

Plants Remove Toxins and Purify the Air

Not long ago, Jocie wrote about a the Filtrete Air Purifier we’ve been using. I was a bit skeptical at first but will concede that it works great. I’ve been checking the filter periodically and it’s definitely accumulating dust, bugs and who knows what else.

But there are other ways to improve the quality of the air around you. Good ‘ol nature provides some great ways to remove various toxins with plants.

Toxins in the Air

Toxins found in the air originate from many sources.

• Formaldehyde can irritate your eyes, nose, throat and cause headaches. It’s found in many household materials like plywood and particle Board, which are often used to manufacture furniture and kitchen cabinets. Products treated with Urea-Formaldehyde (UF) resin include waxed paper, paper towel and paper grocery bags. It’s also created by cooking fuels like natural gas and kerosene.

• Benzene can cause eye and skin irritation to say the least. Other symptoms range from headache and drowsiness to chromosomal aberrations and leukemia. It can be found in solvents, detergents, gasoline, ink, plastics and paints.

• Trichloroethylene (TCE) is a carcinogen (cause of cancer). Specifically, National Cancer Institute believes TCE causes Liver cancer. TCE can be found in dry-cleaning fluid, paints, varnishes and printing ink.

Cleaner Air Using Plants

There are several different plants that can purify the air by breaking down these harmful toxins. Here are some of the top performers.

• The Peace Lily is characterized by long green leaves with bright white blooms (see picture). Peace Lily’s are low maintenance. They thrive in low light but need regular watering. They grow to about 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide. And the Peace Lily is an excellent way to breakdown Benzene(80%) and TCE(23%).

• Aloe is a genus of about 400 plants. Most Aloe plants have thick pointy leaves and tubular flowers. The gel found within the leaves can be used on the skin for burn, wounds and even eczema. Meanwhile, its a great way to remove Formaldehyde(90%) from the air.

• Golden Pothos, also called Devils Ivy, is a low growing vine. It does not flower and enjoys typical indoor temperatures. Devils Ivy is very easy to maintain and will grow in almost any location. Just be sure to trim on occasion as the vines can reach 10 feet long.  Devils Ivy is an effective way to remove Benzene(73%) and Formaldehyde(67%) from the air.

Number of Plants

Setup one or two good sized, leafy plants per 100 square feet (10′ x 10′ room). Add more for higher levels of impurities. Mix plant types because each plant will target different toxins. Don’t place plants near vents as the draft may reduce effectivness.

What do you think? Do you use plants to purify the air? Will you in the future?
Image courtesy of muan-jai

Replacing my Roof: Roofing Contractor Review

Last summer, we replaced our roof. Our home inspector had warned us about the roof when we purchased.  It was about 22 years old and had the original semi-transparent skylights. Then, a small leak started around some of the chimney flashing. A friend went over the area with roofing caulk for a temporary fix but it was time to replace it.

Shopping Roofing Contractors

I had the job priced by three different roofing companies: Columbia Roofing, Brothers Roofing, and a third no-name company. The job was to replace my townhouse roof, check/repair/replace the flashing and install two new skylights.

The no-name company was cheapest. They were quick to give us a low price but didn’t provide anything in paper. The truck they used wasn’t marked and the contractor just didn’t leave us feeling very confident.

Brothers Roofing and Columbia were very professional. They walked me through the job asking and answering questions. They were thorough and both companies provided written quotes. They have both been around for a while and have plenty of references. In the end, Columbia had the better price.

Columbia Roofing Review: Pros and Cons

Pros:

• Columbia arranged to have the work done relatively quickly. And they replaced the entire roof including two skylights in one day.

• The roof looks great. I don’t look at my roof much but when I do, it looks nice. The skylights look great too.

• Columbia went above and beyond. I had two other concerns that were not exactly roof issues. A piece of siding had come off the firewall I share with my neighbor. Columbia also does siding work and used a scrap piece of siding to fix this. The other concern was an aluminum end-cap was loose. They used some caulk to secure it in place.

• Columbia presented themselves very well. Their estimator was knowledgeable and polite throughout the entire process.

Cons:

• The yard wasn’t cleaned up very well. They left scraps of tar paper, shingles, and plenty of nails. I could have called them back to clean up again but decided to do it myself.

• The drywall around the skylights was roughed up a bit. I expected a nice transition from drywall to skylight frame. Instead it was jagged and didn’t look good at all. I called them about this problem. The original estimator made several trips to repair the drywall. Eventually, he put a plastic strip around the frame to hide the rough edge.

• The repairs took a long time. I let them know about the drywall problem and they promised to address it. About a month and a half later they called me. I didn’t pay the remaining 2/3’s of my bill until the job was complete. I think that gave them some motivation to get the repairs finished but it still wasn’t done until the end of summer (about 2 months after the roof was replaced).

I’d still recommend Columbia Roofing. I’m very pleased with the work they did. I just wish the loose ends had been resolved quicker.

What do you think? What’s your experience with roofing companies?
Image courtesy of Striatic

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