Connect with Neighbors at a Pumpkin Carving Party

Recently, our good friends and neighbors, Patrick and Becky, hosted a pumpkin carving party for friends and neighbors. What a great idea! I was thrilled, especially since I had never carved a pumpkin before. But if I was thrilled, Ethan took it to a whole new level. He spent the days and weeks prior secretly planning the perfect pumpkin, although he was careful to not share any ideas with me for fear that I would not be on his team and steal his ideas.

Plan a Pumpkin Carving Party

With the invitation, Becky sent an outline for how the event would progress:

Step One: RSVP by _______ so that teams can be made.
Step Two: Coordinate with your team on a design you would like to carve into the pumpkin(s).
Step Three: Show up and carve (Please note that the Official Rules state that stencils are NOT allowed. You can free-hand a drawing, but no tracing! Violators will be subject to having a beer and thinking about what they have done.) Each team will have one hour to complete their design.
Step Four: Everyone will judge the contest for First, Second and Third place. The team with the most total votes wins the contest and will be forever immortalized in photos
Step Five: Enjoy yourself…it should be a fun way to spend a Saturday afternoon!

Carving Tools

Patrick and Becky provided basic pumpkin carving tools that can be purchased at any local grocery store or dollar store. Ethan, of course, brought along a power drill, knives, and a wealth of enthusiasm. Other teams brought Christmas lights, gourds, and other inferior items (wink, wink).

The Pumpkin

On our team, Ethan and Becky really drove the creative process, while me and another team member executed their vision. As you will see below, our pumpkin was masterful, although we did not win first place. Here is our pumpkin.

Tips for Carving Your Pumpkin

1. Bigger is not always better. While big pumpkins provide a larger creative slab, they take longer to scoop out and carve.
2. Buy the pumpkin carving tools! It is way easier than using a big kitchen knife. The power drill also really helped to make large holes, such as in the back for the candle.
3. Get creative and think outside the box. We used flour, lipstick, and shoe-polish to accent the design.
4. Preserve your pumpkin. After scooping it out, wipe down the pumpkin with a 10% bleach solution (cut with water) to help your pumpkin live longer. I also think the local vermin stay away from the bleach.
5. Have FUN! This is a great way to get to know your neighbors. Also, once you have carved it and put it on your porch, it creates a homey, welcoming feel in the neighborhood.

What do you think? Any carving tips or secrets? Ever hosted a carving party?

Resurface a Deck: New Wood on Existing Joist Structure

The picture to the right shows an existing 20′ x 5.5′ deck structure that serves as the porch entrance to a storage shed.  The surface of the deck is pressure treated 2x8s sawn to fit between the front railing and a ledger just below the siding on the shed.  As you can see in the picture, the 15-year old surface wasn’t subject to a lot of TLC and started to rot.  It’s too hard to tell now whether it was ever sealed after first being laid.

Underneath the surface wood is a support structure built of 4x4s.  We expected to find these support joists rotted out as well.  Fortunately, after removing the wood we found that the majority of the structural wood was in good shape.  Where there was minor issues it did not appear to be active rotting.  We elected not to replace the existing structure due to time and cost constraints.  Instead, we sistered up one new pressure treated 2×4 to the 4×4 closest to the shed to give us a wider area to fasten the new decking surface.  Then, we laid new pressure treated wood on top of all the old joists.

All in all, we completed this job in about 6 hours on a Saturday.  Below are the relatively simple steps we followed to resurface the deck that will work for most decking surfaces.  Of course, each job is unique.  On some decks, it is easier to lay all the wood and then mark and cut the edge with a circular saw.  In our case, a raised railing required the wood to be cut before it was laid.

Steps to Resurface a Deck

1. If the wood was nailed down, use a pry bar and hammer to pull up the existing wood.  If the wood was screwed down, use a drill driver instead to unfasten the wood from the substructure.
2. Purchase dimensional lumber in lengths that minimize waste.  In our case, each board needed to be 5’8, so 2x12s made the most sense, yielding only 8 inches of waste on each board.
3. Cut and lay the new boards over the existing structure.  Fasten the boards down with nails or screws.  We chose Phillips 3″ exterior grade decking screws (available at Home Depot).  If you’re doing a deck larger than about 200 square feet, you should consider a collated screwgun as an alternative to a traditional drill-driver.
4. To get the last board to fit, we had to rip-cut the 2×8 down to 6.26″  To do this, we measured and drew a line on the board from end to end, then used the laser-sighted circular saw to carefully rip the board.  The result was a perfect fit.

Tools / Materials We Used to Resurface the Deck

Here’s the tools we used for this job.

• Standard Claw Hammer
• 15″ Pry Bar
• Drill Driver (We used a 1/2 milwaukee electric drill)
• 7.25″ Laser-sighted Circular Saw
• 35′ Stanley Tape Measure

Materials:

• 16 pieces 2x8x12 pressure treated lumber
• 1 Box 500 Phillips 3″ Exterior Screws

Dimensional Lumber vs. Decking Boards

For this resurfacing job we elected to use traditional 2-by dimensional lumber (2x8s to be specific).  An alternative to laying dimensional lumber would have been to use thinner decking boards available at lumber yards everywhere.  Traditional dimensional lumber is 1.5 inches thick (despite the 2-by designation).  Decking boards are 1.06 inches thick.  The substructure of this deck had a 33″ span between two of the 4x4s.  Even traditional 2x8s had more spring than we would have preferred, but laying decking boards would have been a non-starter.  They would have bowed too much under these conditions.

What do you think? Have you resurfaced your deck?  Is your deck in need of measures beyond simple stain and seal?

How to Recycle Rechargeable Batteries

How do you dispose of old rechargeable batteries? The Rechargeable Battery Recycling Corporation (RBRC) hopes you recycle it.

Call2Recycle

The RBRC is a non-profit organization committed to recycling rechargeable batteries and protecting the environment. They have created the Call2Recycle program for just that purpose. This program has helped recycle more than 42 million pounds of rechargeable batteries and cell phone batteries. RBRC has joined with retailers, businesses, and public agencies to provide over 50,000 convenient drop off locations.

How it Works

1. Go to the Call2Recycle site
2. Plug in your ZIP / Postal code at the top to find a recycle center
3. Drop off your batteries.

There are plenty of drop-off locations like Home Depot, Verizon, and RadioShack, so you won’t have to go far.

What do you think? Have any old batteries to get rid of?

Craftsman Compound Miter Saw with Laser Trac Review

These are my words of wisdom: purchase a good miter saw.  Miter saws are used in lots of projects, like building shelves, cutting metal studs, and tons more. I’ve been installing a lot of baseboard and quarter round recently, and a good miter saw saves you time and frustration. I didn’t realize this profound truth until a friend let me borrow his miter saw. It was amazing and now I need to buy one.

Craftsman Compound Miter Saw

Sears sells the Craftsman Compound Miter Saw with Laser Trac (Sears item# 00921252000). It’s a great saw packed with features. I’ve used it and highly recommend it for every do-it-yourselfer.

Important Miter Saw Features

These are the features I like most about this saw:

• Miter Stops: This saw has 9 positive miter stops at 0, 15, 22.5, 31.6 and 45° (left and right). These are your most common angles and the positive stops make it a so easy to get the right angle and keep working.
• Laser Guide: No more guess work. The laser guide lets you know exactly where the blade will cut. This is so much better than making a series of cuts to get the right length. Plus, the laser is accurate for both miter and bevel angle cuts.
• Bevel Cuts: This saw can perform miter cuts AND bevel angle cuts. There is an upfront bevel lock handle that lets you adjust the angle from the front of the saw.
• Telescoping Extension Wings: This saw has extension wings that slide out to help support longer boards. And, when you’re not using them, the tuck neatly underneath out of the way.
• Motor Brake: The motor brake stops the saw blade from spinning after the cut is finished. This is a great safety feature. A spinning blade is dangerous, especially when I want to reach my hand in and retrieve a freshly cut piece. This brake helps me keep my fingers and reduces noise.

Other Great Features

What else does this saw have?

• This saw includes a steel stand. It makes operating the saw quicker, more comfortable, and helps save your back (not pictured).
• The 15 amp motor is strong enough to tackle even heavy duty projects.
• The Quick-cam miter lock eliminates needing to tighten and untighten the position of the saw. Just press the tab and go.
• 1 year warranty
• 15 amp, 4800rpm motor

Complaints?

This saw is only a single bevel. More expensive versions include the double bevel but I don’t mind rotating a piece around to get the bevel angle I want. Also, a 12″ blade would be nicer but that really only comes into play with large pieces and I haven’t bumped into that problem yet.

What do you think? Ever use this saw?

Soffits (Bulkheads) Contain Pipes, Electric Wiring, Duct Work, and more…

A bulkhead is a blocked area of a ceiling that is lower than the rest of the ceiling, usually by about 4-12 inches.  Bulkheads can be decorative (for instance, when used over kitchen cabinets), or functional (when used to cover structural elements, electric, plumbing, or HVAC components).   In some cases, bulkheads are both decorative and functional.  For instance, a bulkhead over kitchen cabinets may be hiding drain plumbing from the bathrooms above, or romex wiring running to an over-range microwave.  Bulkheads are usually made of the same material as the ceiling or wall (most commonly drywall).  Below is a list of the most popular items bulkheads are covering in today’s homes.

Common Items in Soffits

• Structural elements, like steel I-beams or wood headers.
• Plumbing, including pressurized (copper pipes), and sewer (PVC).
• Natural Gas / Propane Plumbing.
• Electric wiring (Romex).
• HVAC Duct Work.
• Central Vacuum Plumbing.

Identifying Soffit Contents

As modern design has moved toward open floor plans and taller cabinets, bulkheads have become less desirable, and many owners want to remove them from existing homes.  The first step in removing an unwanted bulkhead is to determine if it is hiding any of the items from the list above.  Here’s a few practical steps you can take to determine if the bulkhead is hiding something.

1. Look at the location of the bulkhead and consider what it might contain.  For instance, if you know that the joists run from the front of your house to the back, and there’s a bulkhead in the middle of the home, chances are it contains a steel I-beam or wooden header.
2. Think about where your plumbing enters the house, where your sewer leaves.  Each bathroom and the kitchen are connected to both of these.  Remember that large pipes usually do not run through joists (cutting a 3″ hole would weaken the joist).  So, if a bulkhead is nearby, the plumbing is likely running inside.
3. Consider the same for your HVAC and electric.  For HVAC, fairly large ducts must be hidden somewhere in the floor, walls, or bulkheads.  A large bulkhead may be used to get around joists or other obstacles to get ventilation to an upper floor.
4. Use a special stud finder that checks for studs, pipes and electrical current.  Run that stud finder over the bulkhead to get a better idea of what’s inside.  Beware that the metal detector can return a false positive, most notably when the drywall contains metal reinforcements on the corners.
5. Cut a hole in the bulkhead large enough to fit a digital camera inside, then take pictures facing both ends.  While it will require you to do a drywall patch to fix it, its better than beginning a removal only to find that a large pipe is in the way.

Removing a Bulkhead

Once you’ve determined that a bulkhead is not functional (or you’ve mitigated the issue by moving the hidden obstacle), removing a bulkhead is easy, just tear off the drywall, remove the studs (usually easy because they are often nailed into joists above), drywall over the gap, and patch the drywall.  Sound too simple?  It actually is simple, particularly if you have some experience in drywall repair.

What do you think? Have you removed any bulkheads from your own home?  What did you find inside?

How to Remove Squirrels from your Home

The squirrel saga continues. Some time ago we had some serious squirrels problems. We could hear them crawling and scratching around between the vaulted ceiling and the roof. I regret to inform you, the squirrels are back. To be completely honest, they’ve been back for a little while. But now I’ve called a professional.

Where the Squirrels are Getting In

I’ve been watching the squirrels, and I’ve located their entrance. There is a board on the side of my house where the roof meets the siding called the rake board. They slip under this rake board and get into my house. Another popular entrance for squirrels is through the soffit. Check the underside of your eaves and look for loose pieces.

Mid-Atlantic Wildlife Control LLC

MAWC came out and installed aluminum flashing to the underside of my rake board. At the apex of my roof, they installed a one way squirrel exit (see picture). Any squirrels in the house will eventually leave to do whatever evil things squirrels do during the day and won’t be able to get back in. After about a week, MWAC will take the exit down and secure the opening, leaving me squirrel free.

I found MAWC online, and I choose them for several reasons.

• No squirrels are actually harmed. As much as I don’t like squirrels, I don’t want to kill them. MAWC offers a humane way to deal with them. Plus, even if these squirrels died, other squirrels would move right in.
• MAWC seemed really knowledgeable. In addition to the trap, they let me know that trimming back the trees can also be a good deterrent. Even though the squirrels can still get to my roof, eliminating the easy access encourages them to live elsewhere.
• MAWC is licensed and insured – always a good thing!
• The right price. This service costs $245. Another company I called wanted $475 and I’ve heard that other companies even charge by the squirrel.

The Squirrels are Watching

It’s only been a few days but I know this is working. How? For one thing, I don’t hear them in my house anymore. But even more obvious, there is a handful of squirrels lurking around my house. It’s eerie seeing a squirrel or two staring down at me every time I go outside.

What do you think? Ever battle squirrels before?

Electric Utility Company to Control Your HVAC?

Editor’s note 27-Oct-08: This article claims, incorrectly, that BGE offers its customers monetary credits for joining PeakRewards only in their first year of participation.  In fact, BGE offers up to $100 each year for customers who join PeakRewards, with a one time bonus offerred in the first year of participation of up to an additional $100.   This error was discovered after publication.

Our local power company, Baltimore Gas and Electric (BGE), is offering a new program called Peak Rewards to residents in the mid-Atlantic region.  Here’s the concept: you allow the utility to install a special programmable thermostat or outside switch on your A/C or Heatpump that gives them auxilary control over your system.  In exchange, BGE gives you a one time credit of up to $200 on your bill, the free programmable thermostat, and the promise that as others join the program and reduce peak electrical demand, prices will fall.

As an added bonus, BGE says you’ll be helping the environment by reducing overall energy usage.  If you don’t like the effects of the power cycling, you can opt out of the program at any time and the programmable thermostat is yours to keep.  BGE claims that at their minimum participation level (what they call 50% participation), you likely won’t see very much change in your system’s performance.

The idea behind the plan is that BGE will have more control over the total load on the power grid at any given time.  By cycling some houses off during peak hours, the utility can ensure less spikes to the power grid, meaning less overall electrical power generation is required (e.g., less powerplants are needed).  Overall, more consistent power generation is cheaper and allows less basic fuels to be used.  This, in turn, will drive prices down as demand for electricity declines.

The program sounds really great; but of course, the devil’s in the details.  BGE’s frequently asked questions page clarifies that there are both emergency and non-emergency cycling events. Emergency events occur when the power grid is near peak usage.  Non-emergency events occur because of a variety of other supply-related concerns.  During emergency events, you cannot opt out of participation (e.g., override the control).  During non-emergency events, customers can opt out of up to 2 events each year by calling a phone number.  On average, since 1989, BGE reports approximately 7 cycling events per year, 1 emergency, and 6 non-emergency, each lasting between 3-6 hours, and always during peak Summer usage.

Obviously, a few times a year, most likely during extremely hot periods, there is a high probability that Peak Rewards members will have their systems cycled off.

We’re on the fence about Peak Rewards right now.  Kim is home everyday with the boys, and the thought of dealing with exhausting heat just to get $100 bucks (the amount you get for 50% participation) seems like it might not be worth it.  On the other hand, BGE says that most customers only experience a 2 degree change in temperature in a 4 hour cycling event.

So what do YOU think? Would you give the power company more control over your HVAC system, or is that just a little too creepy and controlling for you?

Photo courtesy of Macinate.

Tenant Notice Requirement When Landlord Enters a Rented Property

Landlords may need to enter their tenant’s house for a variety of reasons, including repairing appliances, performing maintenance, or showing the property to prospective tenants.  It’s important to recognize as an independent Landlord that there are restrictions on when you can enter your property while it is rented.  Ownership has its privileges, but once you’ve rented the place to tenants, it becomes their home, and the law provides them privacy rights.  How those rights play out vary by state, but there is a common thread through all of them.  Read on for more information on general principles of tenants’ right to privacy and how to best manage this aspect of your landlord/tenant relationship.  Note that this is not legal advice.  For that, you should contact an attorney.

The Law on Entering a Renters’ Apartment / House

The law (via the courts) provides tenants with a basic right of privacy.  That is to say that Landlords cannot enter the premises while they are rented unless there is a bonafide reason for entry (sometimes specified in the lease agreement).  Even with a reason, most jurisdictions require some advance notice for most types of entries.

In most jurisdictions, you can enter a tenant’s house for any reasonable purpose as long as you give them 24 hours advance notice.  In this case, reasonable purpose is subject to judgment.  For instance, some jurisdictions will not permit a Landlord to show the inside of a property to prospective tenants without prior consent from the existing tenants.  In other words, just because you give them 24 hours notice, you may still not have the right to enter the property because the reason isn’t good enough.  Some jurisdictions do not require 24 hours notice if the visit is routine in nature (for instance, to perform maintenance or repair), or if the entry was clearly specified / scheduled in the lease agreement.

In general, it is reasonable to enter a property with notice to:

• Repair / replace appliances or other furniture / fixtures.
• Turn outdoor water on/off in the Winter.
• Perform routine maintenance (e.g., change furnace filters).
• Perform any housekeeping agreed to in advance.
• Show the property to prospective tenants at the end of the current tenants’ lease (some jurisdictions limit this).

When Is it OK to Enter a Renters’ House Without Notice?

In general, it is ok to enter a tenant’s residence without notice only in the case of an emergency.  For instance, a broken pipe is flooding the house, a fire has started, or any other situation where serious peril would result in not entering the home.  Some jurisdictions will also allow routine maintenance to be performed without prior notice, or other activities previously negotiated/scheduled in a lease agreement.

Tips for Entering Occupied Rental Properties

Remember, renting property is about a long term relationship between a Landlord and Tenant.  It simply doesn’t make good business sense for a Landlord to abuse their right of entry if they want to maintain a healthy, profitable relationship with their renters.  That in mind, here’s a few tips:

1. Always give your tenants at least 24 hours notice that you will be entering the property.  Make sure you tell them why you will be visiting.  If the reason is not for maintenance/repair, solicit their approval.
2. When possible, schedule entries at least 3 days or more in advance.  Some tenants will want an opportunity to clean the place before you arrive.  Be flexible.  If the time doesn’t work for the tenant, try to schedule a time that is mutually agreeable.
3. If you’ve entered the property when someone isn’t home, be sure to leave a note on the front door letting them know you’re inside.  It can be very unnerving to come home and think that someone may have broken into the house.
4. Always write the details of your right to entrance into the tenant’s lease agreement and be sure to share yours plans in advance.  For instance, if you plan to show the house in the last 60 days of their stay, make sure they are aware.  If you are showing the place to prospective tenants, be sure to stay with those tenants at all times while they tour the house.
5. If you had to enter the house due to an emergency, be sure to leave a note and call your renter on the phone to let them know of the entry.

Clarify Landlord Right to Entry in the Lease Agreement

When it doubt, write it out.  The most important thing you can do to minimize inconvenience, hard feelings, and potential law suits is to clarify your entry rights in the lease agreement.  For an example of how to write this into your agreement, see paragraph 24 of this free lease agreement.

What do you think? Have you had any good / bad experiences with Landlord’s entering your property?  Are you a renter?  Have you ever had a Landlord abuse this right?

How to Install Quarter Round

The quarter round is done. Well, 95% done. There are a few spots left to tackle, but it’s looking great. A quick refresher: quarter round, aka shoe molding, is a piece of molding that fits between the floor and baseboard. I stained and sealed Oak quarter round rather than purchasing expensive Walnut. Installing quarter round is very similar to installing baseboard.

Tools for Installing Quarter Round

• Miter Saw
• Finish Nailer
• Coping Saw
• Wood Putty

How to Install Quarter Round

Quarter round goes up very much like baseboard.  Like before, I suggest moving around a room counter-clockwise for right handed people.

• Cope cut the inside corners. Use 100 grit, sandpaper to make a perfect fit.
• Miter cut the outside corners at a 45° angle. Use a scrap piece to make sure everything lines up. Take your time. You can caulk baseboard but you can’t caulk quarter round. Test each piece before you nail.
• Exposed ends at the end of a run, like at a door jam, should be cut at 22.5°.
• Cut scarf joints just like baseboard. Cut the first piece at a 45° angle. Cut the second piece at a supplementary angle (45° but facing the opposite way) so as to overlap the first.
• Make sure you nail into the baseboard and not the underlying floor. I highly recommend a compressed air, nail gun. Installation will be faster, you won’t have to sink the nails, or drill pilot holes.
• Keep a rag and extra stain nearby. Dab some stain on the cut ends before nailing. This helps conceal minute imperfections.
• Putty and stain the nail holes.

Moving Containers (PODS, ReloCubes etc) vs. Moving Trucks (Budget, U-Haul, Ryder, etc)

As the initial excitement of finding a new home dies down, the truth begins to take hold: you need to move all of your stuff from your house (or apartment, or folk’s place) to the new diggs.  There’s no question that moving can be stressful.  It ranks right up there with getting married, having kids, or changing jobs.  If you’re like us, you’re at least considering moving yourself.  After all, you’re young and strapping right?  OK, maybe not, but you’ve got friends that are – and they’ve promised to help you get to the new place and avoid paying movers $2000 to get your stuff from here to there.  You’re providing the pizza, right?

Fortunately, there’s a lot of companies competing for your DIY moving business.  Essentially, they all fall into two categories: moving trucks (provided by Budget, Ryder, U-Haul, and others), and moving containers (the ubiquitous PODS, SAM, SmartBox, and more competition by the day).  Trucks and containers each provide a different set of advantages and disadvantages to the mover.  I looked at a few of them here.

Convenience – Which is the Most Convenient?

You might think that containers are the clear winner here.  PODS, SAM, SmartBox and the rest of the container providers market this benefit almost to the exclusion of others.  For sure, containers make some things easier.  They sit on your property for as long as it takes you to move your trasures into them.  Most container companies (including PODS and SAM) charge by the month, so you don’t feel pressure to get the whole move done in one or two days.  And, containers are moved by the container company, not you.  You can sit back and relax while the container is shipped in and out, a decidedly convenient feature.  In contrast, nearly every moving truck company charges by the day and the mile.  Every minute matters with the truck; you must get it back to the lot within 24 hours or risk being charged double.

But in a lot of ways containers aren’t so convenient.  If you have more stuff than can fit into one container, but only enough space on your property for one at a time, you may have to have them delivered one after another.  This greatly increases your odds of needing the first container more than a single month and it requires time to coordinate the deliveries.  Further, moving trucks have pull-out walkways on the back.  In some homes, this walkway can be placed right from the truck into the front door of the house, making moving in/out easier than carrying items in from the container.

Liability – Who Pays for Damages?

Containers get the thumbs up here.  You assume almost all liability when you get behind the wheel of the moving truck.  In contrast, PODS, SAM, etc. take the blame if they hit someone while carrying your POD on their truck.  While insurance can go a long way to cover you in the event of an accident, it can’t make up for the lost time, effort, and stress associated with a bad move.

Control - Where’s my Stuff?

Moving trucks win here.  With a moving truck, your stuff stays with you all the way from the old house to the new.  While there’s little chance that your stuff gets stolen / interfered with in a container, for the ultra-control freaks among us, moving trucks give the assurance that our stuff makes it to the new home untouched.

Price – Will I Have Money Left for Paint?

Arguments abound over which option is actually cheaper for a move.  In the end, for most moves, moving trucks will be the cheaper option.  Moving trucks generally have enough room to move a large house, meaning you’ll only need one truck, as opposed to several containers.  Container moving processes involve a paid driver and multiple moves (bringing/storing/delivering the container).  Moving truck companies must maintain the moving truck, but container moving companies must repair/replace containers over time, and still have truck maintenance issues to deal with.

Most container companies know that price is their weakest point.  As a result, they allow customers extended time periods with the container (the least costly advantage they can offer).

The Bottom Line

While moving trucks make more sense if you can get together the manpower to move in one day, the convenience of container moving–made famous by PODS, SAM, and their competitors–offers a compelling options.

What do you think? Will you use a truck or container for your next move?

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