Lay Hardwood Flooring in Tight Spaces or Along a Wall

Laying a hardwood floor is not difficult. But one area that may seem intimidating is laying the last few rows. You slowly loose working space as the floor gets closer and closer to the wall.

Securing Hardwood Floor without a Toe-Nailer

Eventually, the toe-nailer won’t fit or you won’t be able to cleanly strike the hammer face. So how do you nail down your floor? First, there are a few necessary tools.

Required Tools and Materials

• Compressor and finish nail gun – These are a must-have. A regular hammer requires too much space to swing. That link will take you to a Bostitch compressor and nailer kit that is about $150 off retail.
• Pry Bar – This is the exact pry bar I use and it always gets the job done. You’ll need a pry bar to squeeze the floor boards snug.
• Scrap material – Every floor install has some scrap so this shouldn’t be hard to find. You’ll place the scrap against the wall and use the pry bar to push against it.
• Table Saw – You need a good table saw to rip boards length-wise. The very last row of each area almost never fits perfectly.

I’d estimate that they last 3 or 4 rows of floorboards can’t be nailed with the toe nailer. So here is an alternate way to make sure they are secured.

1. Continue selecting floorboards as before. Use the heavy, rubber mallet to push the new board snug against its neighbor.

• Use the pry bar in lieu of the mallet when space is limited. Setup several scrap pieces against the nearby wall. Stack enough pieces to create a small gap (1.5″ or so) between the scrap and new floor board. Leverage the pry bar against the scrap pieces pushing the new board into place. Make sure not to damage the face of the new floor board.
• You may need to hold the new board in place while someone else nails it.

2. Use the finish nail gun to secure the board. Place the nail gun at a 45° angle from the floor and shoot the nail through the tongue much like the toe-nailer. When you fire a nail, push the nailer firmly in place. Too much recoil can cause the nail to go only part way through and will often damage the floor board.

3. Eventually, even the finish nail gun won’t fit. At this point you need to top-nail the boards. Make sure your compressor is set high enough to sink the nail just below the surface of the board. Place nails at least 1/4″ away from any edge. You don’t want to split the wood. Remember to push firmly when firing the nailer. This helps create a nice, smooth entry. These holes are easily repaired with Blend-Fil pencils or covered by molding later on.

4. The very last row almost never fits perfectly. 99% of the time you need to rip the boards length-wise to make them thinner. This is why you need a table saw. A table saw will cut the boards quickly, and precisely. Cut the boards thin enough to leave a small gap for expansion. That gap it will be covered when you install your baseboard. Also, make sure you measure from the correct side (usually the groove side).

What do you think? Any tips for installing the last few rows?

Choose the Right Size Air Conditioner for Your Home

Installing the proper size air conditioner in your home can make all the difference in your comfort and budget.  Install a unit that’s too large, and you’ll be wasting money on higher electric bills with suboptimal performance.  Install a unit that’s too small, and your A/C won’t have enough power to lower the indoor temperature to a comfortable level, roasting you during the Summer’s hottest months.

Here’s a brief summary of how air conditioners work. Thoughts on right-sizing your air conditioner follow at the bottom of the article.

How Air Conditioners Work

Air conditioners transfer heat from the air inside your home to the air outside.  Of course, when its 95 degrees outside, this seems pretty magical.  How can an air conditioner produce cool, 55-degree air when it’s smoldering outside?  The answer lies in something called the evaporation cycle, whick takes advantage of a convenient rule many of us learned in high school chemistry:  if you compress a gas, all other things equal, its temperature goes up.  If you decompress a gas, all other things being equal, its temperature goes down.  Your air conditioner is filled with a special gas called freon that is constantly being compressed and decompressed.  Freon’s temperature fluctuates significantly under compression, making it ideal for use in an air conditioner.

While most of us refer to our home’s outdoor unit as the air conditioner, there are actually two major parts of an air conditioning system:  the outdoor compressor/condenser unit, and the indoor air circulation / evaporation unit.  These two units are connected by copper piping that contains the freon.  Inside both units, the copper piping is coiled / finned to create a large surface area for air to pass over for heat exchange.

In a nutshell, here’s how the evaporation cycle works (remember, this is a cycle, so the starting point is arbitrary).

1. Low pressure, relatively cool freon gas is pushed to the outside unit.
2. The outside unit compresses the freon gas which heats up the freon significantly (remember high school chemistry!).
3. The freeon then passes through a series of coils (or fins) in the outside unit called a condenser.  A fan blows air over the coils/fins.  This cools the freon gas to the ambient outdoor temperature.  In the cooling process, the freon is converted to a liquid.  Remember, the liquid is still compressed.
4. The compressed freon liquid is pushed to the interior unit where it is allowed to decompress and evaporate.  As it evaporates back into a gas, it cools down significantly, well below the ambient outdoor temperature, and even below the indoor temperature.
5. Air is blown over the copper coils/fins containing the decompressed freon, thus cooling the air.  This air is ultimatly blown through the duct work in your home to cool your family.  Note that when air passes over the coils, there is also a dehumidifying effect.  Water in the air condenses on the coils and then falls to the bottom of the handler where it is pumped out of your house or drained to the sump pump.  This dehumidication makes the air in your home feel even cooler on your skin.
6. The decompressed freeon’s temperature decreases as the air is blown over it.  It is then pumped back out to the exterior unit where the cycle is repeated at Step #1.

That’s pretty much it.  Of course, this is a high level view.  There’s a few more parts involved, but this will get you through at the next cocktail party.  So what about right-sizing your air conditioner?

When an Air Conditioner is Too Small

This one is simple and straightforward: if you install an air conditioning unit that is too small for your house, the unit will not be able to keep up with the cooling demands of your home.

When an Air Conditioner is Too Large

This one is a bit more complicated: the thought of cooling down the whole house in a shorter period of time is certainly alluring. The problem with purchasing a large air conditioner is that it actually cools the air so quickly that the unit turns off before the air is sufficiently dehumidified (see Step 7 above).  As a result, you must set the thermostat lower to achieve the same comfort level, which wastes energy and leaves you with suboptimal performance.

What do you think? Did you install the right sized air conditioner in your home?

Photo by DaynaR.

Dimmable Compact Florescent Lightbulb (CFL) Review

When we moved into our home, the kitchen had a lovely ceiling fan. It promptly broke because it wasn’t wired correctly. So, I installed a simple light fixture but never got around to removing the dimmer switch. It wasn’t really a problem except that the CFL bulbs we used are not designed (read: should not be used) with a dimmer switch.

How Dimmer Switches Work

Electric dimmer switches work by passing electricity in short bursts. These short bursts turn the light on and off so fast that the human eye doesn’t notice. Traditional, incandescent bulbs use electricity to heat up a thin filament and thereby create light. Incandescent bulbs limited by dimmer switches simply don’t heat up as much.

The Problem with Regular CFLs and Dimmer Switches

CFL’s create light in a different way. They don’t use heat or a filament to create light. CFL tubes are filled with an inert gas. The electricity excites the gas molecules and they give off energy in the form of ultraviolet light. The UV light then excites a phosphor coating on the inside of the tube which creates visible light. Unfortunately, typical CFLs are not compatible with dimmer switches. What’s the exact reason? I’m not totally sure but, I think it’s because CLFs require a minimum threshold of constant power to properly excite the gas molecules. The intermittent bursts created by dimmer switches don’t adequately maintain that threshold.

The real problem is that using regular CFLs on a dimmer can result in shorter bulb life. That means it can cancel out any potential savings. Plus, it often voids any manufacturer’s warranty. Regular CFLs can also flicker and create a noticeable hum.

ECOSMART Dimmable CFL Review

Fortunately, industry has created dimmable CFLs! I just purchased three ECOSMART brand dimmable CFLs from Home Depot. Here are the details:

• Soft white light
• 23 watts of energy used
• 90 watt equivalents
• 1400 lumen output
• 10,000 hours of life
• 9 year warranty

Pros

These bulbs are great. They put out a generous amount of light and are not harsh on the eyes. Best of all, they don’t flicker, no matter what light setting. They come on quickly and “warm-up” in about 30 seconds. Each bulb puts out about the same amount of light so there isn’t any obvious imbalance.

Cons

Dimmable CFL’s still have room for improvement. They don’t dim completely. Energy levels lower than 20% result in the CFL turning off. So, you’ll never get the ultra-low, romantic light that incandescent bulbs provide. I also noticed a slight hum when these bulbs are not on full strength. It’s slight, but still there. I plan on testing these bulbs on another dimmer switch to see if the hum persists.

What do you think? Have any dimmable CFLs? What brand do you like most?

Stocking Stuffer Tool Gift Ideas

Here are some great stocking stuffer ideas for the do-it-yourselfer in your life. I know these are great ideas because I either own them, or want them. Even better, they won’t break the bank.

Holiday Stocking Stuffer Gift Ideas

All these ideas are available from Amazon.

• Stud and Live Wire Detector- The Intellisensor, Pro Stud Sensor has an LCD screen to easily locate the edges of studs and joists. This sensor also provides continuous live wire detection. Right now, it’s on sale for $27.28.
• Folding Utility Knife- This is a rugged, professional grade utility knife from Irwin tools. It features a quick-release button for easy blade changes and a belt clip. This knife also has a wire stripping notch for even more convenience. Available for $12.55.
• Precision Screwdriver Set- Stanley makes this 6 piece, precision screwdriver set. Each screwdriver has swivel head handle and bright, fluted shafts for a solid grip. These screwdrivers have hardened, tempered steel blades. The set comes with a plastic storage case and limited lifetime warranty. This set is available for only $5.00.
• Magnetic Arm Band- This magnetic arm band is a genius idea. It keeps pliers, screws and nails all within easy reach. It’s a great gift idea for only $19.99.
• Chalk Line Combo- Irwin makes this 100′ chalk line. It’s constructed durable aluminum alloy so you know it’s built to last. Plus, the locking handle allows it to be used as a plumb-bob. The chamber holds approximately 2 oz. of chalk so the 4 oz. bottle should last a long time. This combo is avaiable for only $3.99.
• 4-in-1 Ratcheting Screwdriver- This is such a useful screwdriver. It features a reversible shaft, and reversible bits at each end (#1 and #2 Phillips, and 3/16″ and 1/4″). These bits won’t fall out because they are held securely in place by spring-loaded, ball bearings. Even better, this is a ratcheting screwdriver with a recessed control knob built into the handle. It’s a great, go-to, tool on sale for only $5.99.

What do you think? Have any good holiday gift ideas?
Image courtesy of Mysza

Blue Jean Insulation

Want to make your blue jeans green? Use them to insulate your home. I came across some interesting information online and thought I’d share / get some reader feedback.

Insulating with Blue Jeans

Bonded Logic has developed a process to take old, worn out jeans and recycle them to create insulation. Their UltraTouch insulation has 85% post-industrial recycled natural fibers. They treat the cotton fibers with a boron based solution to increase fire resistance, prevent mold and mildew, and inhibit unwanted pests.

Benefits of Using Blue Jeans for Insulation

There are a lot of great reasons to use this type of insulation.

• Recycling jeans keeps them from ending up in a landfill.
• You don’t have to work with itchy fiberglass insulation.
• UltraTouch doesn’t contain any Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC’s) such as formaldehyde.
• Blue jean insulation is great for absorbing sound.

Disadvantages of Blue Jean Insulation

There are always a few draw-backs.

• The cost is about double that of fiberglass insulation. I found online that R-13, jean insulation runs $0.79 per square foot while R-13 fiberglass is about $0.39 per square foot. As with most products, the price may drop with time.
• UltraTouch is still a batt product. It’s not blown or sprayed in place. That means that you’ll still experience air leaks around things like electrical boxes and plumbing.

What do you think? Anyone ever use this type of insulation?
Image courtesy of Charles Thompson

Paying Down a Mortgage Early: Pros and Cons

As Kim and I look forward to our future, we regularly consider a variety of investment and savings options to help us achieve our financial goals. Earlier this year, we decided to make paying down our mortgage balance ahead of schedule a component of our overall investment strategy.  After weighing the pros and cons of the decision, we’re still feeling good about it and will likely continue with the strategy throughout next year.  Here’s the pros and cons as we see them.  Feel free to weigh in with your own observations.

Pros & Cons of Mortgage Pay Down

Pros:

• Guaranteed return on investment. Our mortgage rate is 5.75%.  We’re in the 25% marginal tax bracket and itemize our deductions sufficently to take advantage of the full tax break.  This means our guaranteed return is reduced to 4.32% on all of our principal payments.  This return fairs favorably against the 30 year T-Bond, which is yielding only 4.2% before taxes, and a 3.15% after taxes.
• Peace of mind. There’s a Proverb in the Bible that says the borrower is a slave to the lender.  I think that Proverb has a lot of wisdom wrapped up in it.  Being a borrower puts you in a position of obligation to another.  Owning your house outright removes that obligation, and gives you greater mental freedom.
• Built in discipline. It’s hard to get money out of your home (you must refinance unless you have  HELOC).  As a result, its easier to forget about the money you’ve invested in paying the mortgage.

Cons:

• Other invesments offer higher returns. While this year has been terrible, historically the stock market has outperformed our modest 4.32% return.  Of course, with higher returns comes higher volatility & risk.  As I noted, for a comparably risky product (the guaranteed 30 yr. T-Bond), early pay down fairs better.
• Other investments offer tax advantages. For instance, investing in a 401K, Roth IRA, or municipal bonds allows you to avoid taxes either on the front or back end of your investment.  Since mortgage loan interest is tax advantaged, it may be better to exploit all possible tax-advantaged investment options before paying down a mortgage early.
• Your investment is tied up. Once you pay down your mortgage early, the money is returned to the mortgage company and it is difficult to get access to those funds again (you must refinance).  As a result, it’s hard to re-purpose your investment if you decide to be more aggressive.

Why We’re Paying Down our Mortgage Early

The bottom line for us came down to the psychological aspects of looking forward to debt-free living, coupled with viewing early pay down as a better conservative component of our investment strategy.  Also, we’re already making near maximum use of the most popular tax-advantaged contribution vehicles (e.g., 401K).

If interest rates skyrocket in the next 10 years, we may find that we regret not having our money in some kind of inflation-protected security.  We’ll be forced to live with our ongoing 4.32% return, despite other vehicles that might safely offer double that in the future.  If that does happen, though, we’ll at least shift future investments into inflation-protected securities.

What do you think? Do you pay down your mortgage balance early?  Why or why not?

Photo courtesy of WoodleyWonderWorks.

The Best Way to Store Paint

I have a ton of leftover paint. Jocie and I have painted just about every room in the house and we always keep excess paint for touch-ups. But what is the best way to store that paint?

How to Store Paint

Paint can last a long time, especially if you take the time to store it properly.

• Store the paint someplace cool and dry. Keep cans away from furnaces that can cause temperature fluctuations.
• When shelving paint for an extended period of time, put some plastic wrap over the opening before the lid. The plastic wrap creates and additional barrier from the air.
• I typically use a hammer to close the paint can (or even the occasional screw-driver end). But, hammering the lid on can create dents and let air seep in. Put a towel over the lid before hammering it shut.
• Make sure to keep the can rim (chime) clear. Excess paint can make it difficult to create an airtight seal.
• Open paint cans with a key. Most DIY store will give you one for free. I picked one up from Home Depot. Using a key helps keep the paint can dent free.
• Try storing the can upside-down. Upside-down cans prevent air from leaking in but be careful if a skin forms.

How to Dispose of Paint

Maybe you didn’t realize how important paint storage is, and now you’ve got a lot of old, junky paint. What’s the best way to get rid of it all? Here’s a post that walks you through paint disposal. It also includes a handy widget for finding a disposal center near you. Check it out!

What do you think? How do you store paint?
Image courtesy of Incase Designs

2009 Tax Credits for Energy Saving Home Improvements

Here’s one good reason to put off for tomorrow what you could get done today…

The energy tax credits that we all enjoyed in 2007, but expired in 2008, are now back on for 2009!  Remember that bailout bill?  When it passed on October 3, 2008, it reinstated a bunch of energy tax credits for certain home improvements.  Below are a few highlights of the savings you could enjoy.  For a complete list, see the government’s table at energystar.gov.  (Note, some restrictions apply to these credits that are not listed here).

• 10% credit up to $200 on window/skylight/storm windows replacements.
• 10% credit up to $500 for exterior doors and storm doors.
• 10% credit up to $500 for installing insulation.
• $300 for >14 SEER HVAC replacement.
• 30% credit up to $2000 for geo-thermal heat pump system.
• $150 for >95 AFUE boiler/furnace replacement.
• 30% credit up to $2000 for solar water heating system.
• 30% credit up to $500/.5KWh / $4000 total for small wind power system.

What do you think? Did you take advantage of these credits in prior years?  Will the new announcement affect your home improvement schedule?

Photo courtesy of Anaivette.

Top Home Improvement Credit Cards (Cashback Rewards)

Updated December, 2010: Note that most of the home improvement rewards cards have been canceled. There’s only two left on the list that offer unique benefits for home improvement.

First up is Discover’s More Rewards Card.  Discover offers up to 5% back on home improvement for three months every year (historically in the Spring).  In the past, the reward has been limited to 5% back on the first few hundred in purchases, making the total amount you can earn limited.  Discover rotates their 5% back program every 3 months, offering up to 5% back on other categories like gas, restaurants, travel, etc.  All other purchases qualify for 1% back, and Discover also offers balance transfer and introductory purchase APR incentives.

Second is the Chase Freedom Card.  Chase Freedom offers 5% back on home improvement, restaurants, gas, hardware, and more in rotating categories, just like Discover Card (and also with limits).  There is also a 1% back option, with certain limits.

As we learn of more cards with home improvement cash back rewards, we’ll update this list.

Cards for Contractors

While these are great credit cards for personal home improvement work, they won’t work for businesses. Cash Money Life aggregates some of the best business credit cards if you’re a home improvement contractor and looking for good rewards

What do you think? So really… what’s in your wallet?

Irwin Vise-Grip Tool Review

Irwin makes a lot of amazing tools. But, I didn’t realize just how many I have until recently. I’ve got wood clamps, a chalk line, snips, and more. They are really handy tools that I’ve come to rely on. Irwin has a lot of great tool sets, and the 2 piece, locking pliers set is a great holiday gift idea.

Irwin Vise-Grip Locking Pliers

I have a pair of the Original Straight Jaw Locking Pliers. These pliers can generate an incredible amount of pressure. That’s important when I’m trying to get a grip on a tiny little bolt head. These clamps are great for twisting, turning and holding things together. They were indispensable when I did a little work with steel studs. They acted like a second set of hands.

Irwin locking pliers are constructed from high-grade, heat-treated alloy steel. They are strong and durable. And, the hardened teeth will grip from any angle within capacity (1-7/8″ / 48 mm). Just turn the screw to adjust the pressure / fit the job. These grips also have an easy trigger release for quick unlocking. Irwin even provides a lifetime warranty.

Irwin Locking C-Clamp

I also have an Irwin Locking C-Clamp. Again, you get the same great steel construction and durability. They have the same pressure adjustment and quick release but, these jaws will open much wider (3-3/8″ / 85 mm). Plus, they have swivel pads to hold tapered work and awkward jobs. I’d advise using spare wood to help protect delicate, finish item.

I used the C-Clamp to help lock guides in place while making cuts with a saw and whenever I needed a extra-large clamp. Another indispensable tool from Irwin.

What do you think? How many Irwin tools do you have? What’s your experience with locking pliers?

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