How to Change the Oil in a Car or Truck (Example: Dodge Caravan)

Like everything else DIY, changing your own oil is a great way to fight the recession blues.  It’ll save you between 50-75% off what you might pay to one of those quick lube places… and, it probably takes a lot less time than you think.  Plus, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing that you can do it yourself!

Savings by Changing your Own Oil

Consider that the average oil change at the local quick lube place costs upwards of $35, while changing your own oil is around $9.  If you change your oil 4 times a year, that’s more than a $100 savings.  If you normally take advantage of the extra services at your favorite oil change location, you’re probably paying a 100% markup for parts and installation, when you could have done it yourself.

High markup extras include things like changing the air filter, new bulbs for your headlights/taillights, transmission fluid changes, etc.  Many of these extras were designed to be maintained by the owner of the vehicle and not the shop.   Add all these extras up, and you could see a $200-300 maintenance upcharge over a 1 year period.

It Takes Less Time than You Think

Changing the oil in a typical automobile takes about 15-20 minutes.  For first timers, you can expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour, but trust me, you’ll get quicker and the investment will be well worth it.  Once you tackle this, you’ll be ready to do more of your own car maintenance, and you’ll be better equipped to maintain your other gas-powered equipment.

Tools Required to Change the Oil

There’s only a few tools needed to change the oil, many of which you probably already own.  Here’s what we used for this example.

1. Ramps (not shown) (note: Make sure you get ramps that fit under trim pieces on the front of your car.  Ensure the ramps have the proper weight-bearing capacity)
2. Plastic Oil Pan (we prefer the easy pour type)
3. 5 Gallon Gas Container (for storing old oil)
4. Oil Filter Socket (socket should be sized for the oil filter on your vehicle)
5. Ratchet*
6. Standard Socket* (socket should be sized for the screw on the bottom of your oil pan)
7. Funnel

* you can substitute the ratchet and standard socket for a wrench if you aren’t going to use an oil filter socket

Materials Required to Change the Oil

1. Synthetic or Regular Motor Oil (Be sure to use the proper-type oil for your vehicle.  The proper type will be listed in the owner’s manual and is usually listed as something like 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40.  Most vehicles will take between 4-6 qts. of oil.  You can save about 5% by purchasing oil by the gallon instead of by the quart
2. Oil Filter (Check your owner’s manual for the right filter type)
3. Paper Towels

Steps to Change the Oil in a Car or Truck

You should always follow the oil change steps included with your vehicle.  Below are the steps we followed for our Dodge Caravan.  Despite the long list, these are actually very simple steps that can be accomplished by a novice.

1. Place the ramps evenly in front of the front wheels of the vehicle.
2. Drive the vehicle up on to the ramps.  Put the auto in Park (automatic) or a gear (manual), engage the emergency/parking brake, and turn off the minivan.
3. Inspect the wheels and ramps to ensure the car or truck is completely on the ramps (wheels are stable), and there is no change the ramps will move.  Remember, you will need to get under the vehicle, so this step is important.
4. Climb under the car.
5. Locate the drain pan and drain bolt under the vehicle.  Place your oil pan under the drain pan bolt and remove the bolt.  Oil will begin to drain out of the drain pan into your pan. (note: use the right size socket to avoid stripping the head).
6. Once almost no oil is flowing out of the drain pan, replace the bolt and tighten.  (Note: do not overtighten the bolt as it could strip.  The owner’s manual will specificy the proper torque for the bolt.  If you have a torque wrench, you may use this instead of the socket to ensure perfect torque).
7. Locate the oil filter (usually close to the drain pan).  Place your pan under the filter.
8. Using the oil filter socket, remove the filter.  As you remove the filter, oil will begin to drip around the filter.  Keep unscrewing the filter until it comes free from the car.  Allow the excess oil around the filter to drain into the pan.  (note: this is usually the messiest step).
9. Check the location where the filter is attached to the vehicle to ensure no residue is remaining from the prior filter (sometimes the gasket that is attached to the filter breaks down and sticks to the housing).  If the gasket remains, scrape it off.  This is rare, but can happen when the oil filter has not been changed for a long time.
10. Install your new oil filter with the oil filter wrench.  Tighten the filter against the housing, but do not overtighten.  Medium-strength hand tightening is appropriate.
11. Climb out from under the vehicle.
12. Locate the oil fill cap.  The cap is usually prominently labeled on top of the engine.
13. Unscrew the cap.
14. Fill the oil resevoir to 1 qt. less than is specified in the owner’s manual.  (e.g., if the manual says 5 qts are required, fill with 4 qts.)
15. After you get to within 1 qt. of the total fill, check the dipstick regularly to determine the exact amount of oil to put in.
16. When the dipstick reads full, replace the oil cap, and start the vehicle.  Allow the engine to run for 20 seconds, then turn the car off again.  This gets the oil moving around in the engine and will reveal additional capacity.  (Note, it is normal for the dashboard to report low oil pressure for the first few seconds on startup.  If it remains for more than 5 seconds, turn off the engine and check your work!)
17. Wait about 60 seconds and read the dipstick again.  In most vehicles, the dipstick will report about 1/2 qt. low.  Fill the engine with oil until the dipstick reads full again.  Note: Do not overfill!
18. Replace the oil cap and do a final inspection.  Ensure you (a) replaced and tightened the oil pan bolt; (b) replaced and tightened the oil filter, (c) filled the vehicle with new oil, and (d) replaced the oil fill cap.
19. Start the engine.  Listen for any issues.  If none are found, you’re done!

How to Dispose of Used Oil

Believe it or not, most auto parts stores have a giant resevoir in the back for used oil.  Customers are welcome use the resevoir, despite the feature being poorly advertised.  In our area, both Pep Boys and Advance offer this service.

Remember: Auto parts stores want you to buy their oil, so they have every incentive to let you drop off your used oil!

We store used oil in a 5 gallon gas container.  Every oil change yields about 1.2 gallons of oil, so every 4 changes, I make a run to the auto parts store.  I buy all the materials for the next 4 changes at that trip.  I maintain two cars (for about 8 changes/year), yielding about 2 trips.

What do you think? Do you change your own oil?

First photo courtesy of Robert Couse-Baker.

How to Install a Programmable Thermostat (Example: Honeywell)

I hooked up my new Honeywell Programmable Thermostat today and it was surprisingly easy. Honeywell includes a great set of instructions that was easy to follow.

Installing a New Thermostat

Note: Follow all the instructions that were included with your thermostat.  These instructions are only a summary.

Step 1: Before you start, make sure to turn off the power to your heating and cooling system.

Step 2: Next, you need to get the old thermostat off. Ours had two screws securing the faceplate and two more screws anchoring it to the wall. I saved these screws and was able to reuse the same drywall anchors.

Step 3: Honeywell included some small stickers to label all the wires. Tag each wire with it’s corresponding terminal. You might notice that some wires are not connected. This is common because thermostat wiring comes in different varieties and the wiring depends on your type of HVAC system.  The instructions will help you identify the right wires.

Step 4: Attach the new thermostat wallplate and feed the wires through the opening in the back.

Step 5: Now it’s time to connect the wires to the programmable thermostat. Match up the tags with the correct terminals. Loosen the terminal screws and insert the wires. Tighten the terminal screws and make sure the wire is secure.

I’ve relabeled the terminals so you can see them better. Notice that conventional HVAC systems differ from heat pump systems, but a programmable thermostat will work with both.

These are the wires I connected:

• Green – This is connected to the G terminal. This controls the furnace fan.
• Yellow – This is connected to the Y terminal and this controls the compressor for the air conditioning.
• White – This is connected to the W terminal and controls the heat.
• Red – Lastly, this is connected to the R terminal and mine is jumpered to the RC terminal. This is the source hot wire from the transformer.

Step 6: Insert any required batteries and snap the programmable thermostat onto the wallplate. Turn the power back on and start programming your temperatures.

Recommended Programmable Thermostat

If you’re in the market for a new thermostat, we like this 7-Day Touchscreen Programmable Thermostat from Honeywell, available from Home Depot at that link.  That’s the model we installed here, and as you can see, Honeywell really made the install easy.

What do you think? Ever install a thermostat?

Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Review (RTH7600D)

Honeywell products can be found at a variety of retailers but I’d suggest checking Lowes. The reason being, we’ve got your Lowes Coupon. Check out this coupon for an easy 10% off any in-store purchase. Isn’t it worth your time for an additional $10 off this thermostat?

By now, you are probably familiar with the great benefits of programmable thermostats. They enable you to better regulate the temperature of your home, ultimately saving energy and money. Well, I have found a great thermostat. Honeywell manufacturers this 7-Day Programmable Touchscreen Thermostat ($99 from Home Depot), and it’s packed full of great features.

Honeywell RTH7600D Programmable Thermostat Features

Here are the features that really make this thermostat stand out.

• You can program each day independently
• Plus, each day has up to 4 different periods
• Easy to use touchscreen for simple operation
• Large backlit display makes it easy to read even in dim light
• +/- 1°F temperature precision
• Filter change reminder helps keep HVAC at optimal performance
• Automatically adjusts for daylight savings (optional)
• ENERGY STAR rated
• Compatible with heating and cooling plus heat pump systems

Thermostat Specifications

• Assembled Depth : 1.25 In.
• Assembled Height : 3.75 In.
• Assembled Weight : 0.7 lbs
• Assembled Width : 6 In.
• Voltage Rating : 24 volts

Additional Features

• Auto Change from Heat to Cool – Automatically adjusts the pre-heating/cooling of your home so you are comfortable at your programmed times
• Permanent Day and Time – Even if the power goes out
• Battery-Free Operation (optional) – This unit can be powered from the HVAC system eliminating the need to change batteries
• 1 Year Limited Warrant

What do you think? What thermostat do you have?

Detect and Locate Natural Gas Leaks

Lots of people use natural gas for cooking, heating, fireplaces, outdoor lights and more. So it’s very important to be able to identify a gas leak and know what to do.

Detecting Natural Gas

Natural gas is colorless, tasteless and odorless in its original state. But, your supplier adds an unpleasant odor so that you can detect it. It either smells faintly of rotten eggs or rotten cabbage. I received a little pamphlet from Baltimore, Gas and Electric (BGE) with a scratch-n-sniff. They mail these out to make sure everyone is familiar with the smell of natural gas. This is important even if you are not supplied with gas as it can pass through walls from your neighbors home.

If You Smell a Gas Leak

If you are at all unsure of the extent of the leak, leave your home immediately and call your supplier emergency services from a safe location.

• Don’t operate light switches, telephones, lighters, or matches.
• Don’t attempt to light appliances, or adjust thermostats.

If you have a small leak:

• Shut off your gas supply.
• Extinguish any open flames.
• Open window and doors.
• Call your supplier emergency services.

Common Gas Leak Locations

Here are some suggestions for common leak locations. Be careful as moving appliances can create leaks. It may be worthwhile to hire a contractor to perform inspections, repair, and maintenance.

• Check the condition of flexible gas line connections. Looks for leaks in flex-connector lines between the supply and the appliance. These tend to have thin walls and can corrode. Pay special attention to older, brass flexible gas connectors. These connectors are not commonly used today but may be found in homes with older appliances.
• Check each piping joint and connection.
• Check gas valves. Often you’ll find very small leaks on the seamed side of some gas valves, like those on water heaters. These leaks can be very tiny and present even on new valves.

What do you think? Ever found a leak? Do you know the smell of natural gas?
Image courtesy of ILoveButter

Adoption Home Inspection: Health Department Requirements

Kim and I are nearing completion of the approval process to adopt two more children into our family.  (Note: finishing the approval process is only the first step… It will be years before we get the kids).

One of the final steps in the process is having our home inspected by the Baltimore County Health Department to ensure it’s suitable for additional children.  The inspection is the same for adoptive and foster parents, as well as for other situations where a family is housing a client in their home.

The inspection covers a wide range of home health-related items.   Some of them make us laugh, because NONE of our friends with biological children care about these items in their own home.  The list from Baltimore County is below (as of 12/2008).  Obviously, a list like this will vary by jurisdiction, so you should contact your own state or county health department to determine what’s needed if you’re in the adoption/fostering process.

For fun, leave a comment on this post and let us know if your home passes (or if not, why it fails )

Food Handling

• Food not in the original package is stored in labeled and dated containers.
• All opened food packagees are resealed.
• Food is obtained only from approved sources.
• Home canned food is not provided for clients.
• Equipment, dishes, utensils, and glasses are kept clean.
• A monitoring thermometer is required in refrigerators/freezers to insure that potentially hazardous food is stored at safe temperatures.
• Chemical products are not stored with food or disposable products suchs as plates, cups, utensils, or paper ware.
• Cockroaches and pests are not present in stored food products.

Safe Food Storage Temperatures:

• Refrigerated Food:  45 degs. F or below
• Frozen Food: 0 degs. F or below

Kitchen/Dining Room

• Furniture, walls, cabinets, appliances, sinks, and equipment are free of grease, food debris, or dirt build-up.
• Perimeters of floors, areas behind and underneath appliances are clean and free of debris.
• Exhaust hoods and filters over ranges are clean.
• Trash cans are kept clean.  If used, liners are removed daily.
• Refrigerator interiors are clean and free of dried-on food debris, spillage, odorous containers of spoiled leftover food, rotting vegetables and fruits, and broken eggs.
• Shelving and bins are clean and are not rusted.
• Interiors of ranges, microwaves, toaster ovens, and other appliances are clean.
• Glasses, dishes, utensils, pots and pans have been cleaned before storage.
• Interiors of cabinets, drawers, and food storage containers are clean.

Living Room/Family Room

• Floors and rugs are cleaned and vacuumed.
• Furniture is free of food debris and soil.
• Furnishings are dust-free.
• Fireplace areas are being maintained.
• Window coverings are clean and free of dust.
• Rooms are free of cobwebs and clutter.

Bathrooms

• Walls, floors, ceilings, and tiles are clean and free of mold and mildew.
• Toilets, showerheads, grab rails, tubs, sinks, and faucets are clean and free of mineral deposits.
• The interiors of medicine cabinets and sink cabinets are kept clean and the contents organized.
• Exhaust fans are operational and free of dust and dirt.
• Glass shower doors or curtains are clean and free of mold and mildew.
• Bathroom trash cans are clean and emptied as needed.
• Bath accessories (i.e. rugs, toilet tank/lid covers, mirrors, toothbrush and soap holders, and towels) are free of soil.
• Non-slip bath mats / decals for the tub.

Bedrooms

• Furniture, bed linens, curtains, and rugs are clean, free of stains and odors.
• Furniture interiors are free of food debris.
• Closets are organized and uncluttered.
• Clean clothing is stored on hangers, hooks, or in drawers.
• Walls, floors, and ceilings are clean and free of dirt, dust, and cobwebs.
• Dirty clothes are kept in cleanable hampers.
• Smoke detectors are required in every bedroom.
• Windows are screened.

Garage

• Floors are clean.
• Storage is organized and limited.

Basements

• Boxes and articles are stored uncluttered.
• Floors are dry, swept, and kept clean.
• The area is periodically aired out and free of mildew and other odors.
• Walls, ceilings, furniture, and storage are free of cobwebs.
• No items are stored within 3 ft. of the furance / hot water heater.

Client Areas

• Lockable storage area is available for clients’ medication.
• Bed linens and towels are available to each client.

Storage Closets / Areas

• Shelving and floors are clean.
• Contents are organized on shelves or storage racks.
• Botoom shelves are at least 4 to 6 inches above floor.

Exterior Premises

• Driveways, curbs, and sidewalks are in good repair.
• The yard is clean and free of litter and hazards.
• Play equipment is in good repair.
• Trash cans have fitted lids.
• There are no mice, rats, or stinging insect problems.
• Swimming pools are being maintained.

Pets

• Pet dogs, cats, and ferrets have had their rabies vaccinations.
• There are License #s or verification of innoculations for these pets.
• Other pets (turtles / birds) have a Certificate of Health.
• Litter box is clean.
• Pet areas in the living areas, basements, or garages are clean and free of odors.
• Pet food is not a source of pest problems.
• Packages are resealed or enclosed in covered containers.

Private Water Supply / Sewage Disposal System

• The well is properly protected from contamination.
• The sewage disposal system is operational.
• Raw sewage is not leaking from the disposal system.
• The plumbing system is in good repair.
• Hot water temperatures are between 100 degs. F and 120 degs. F.

Maintenance

• Walls, floors, and ceilings are in good repair.
• Doors and windows are vermin proofed.
• Screens and door flashings are installed.
• Cracks and crevices in the kitchen/bathrooms are closed with an approved caulking compound.
• Adequate lighting is available in all areas.
• Building exterior is in good repair.

Safety

• All containers of housekeeping products are labeled as to their contents and usage.
• Emergency phone numbers are posted by telephones.
• Each floor has an operational smoke detector.
• A 2A-10BC or larger rated fire extinguisher is mounted in the kitchen.
• Grab rails/grab bars are provided whereever necessary.
• Stairs are free of storage.
• Rug guards and stair treads are provided.
• Hot water avialble to clients is periodically checked to prevent scalding accidents.
• Flashlights are available for emergency use.
• A fire evacuation plan has been devised and practiced.
• Gasoline powered equipment is safely stored outside.
• Basement bedrooms meet Fire Department requirements.
• Safety covers for electrical outlets.
• There are no tripping hazards.
• Housekeeping supplies and other chemicals, such as pesticides, are stored safely or in locked areas.

Lead Paint

• Houses built prior to 1978 and with visible paint deterioration/chipping may be subject to a lead paint inspection.

What do you think? Would your house pass inspection?  We’re hoping ours does…

Kreg Jig K3 Master System For Pocket Hole Joints

One of the toughest part of any woodworking project is securely joining two pieces of wood. You want a strong, durable joint that will hide all the hardware. The best way to achieve this is using the Kreg jig Master System. It’s a must-have for any serious wood smith and is a great gift idea.

Woodworking with the Kreg Jig Master System

The Kreg Jig Master System is more than just a drill jig. It features a portable and bench top base to use wherever is most convenient. The drill guide block has a 3 hole setup allowing you to drill multiples holes without repositioning. The bench top base has a patent pending front clamp to quickly secure wood. The Dust Collection Shroud connects to most shop vac and keeps your work area clean.

The Kreg Jig Master System Includes

Here is a list of everything included with the Master System.

• Bench top drill guide base
• Portable drill guide base
• Drill guide block
• Dust collection Attachment
• 3/8″ Stepped Drill Bit
• 6″ Square Driver
• 3″ Square Drive
• Screw starter set
• Material support stop
• Premium face clamp
• Plug starter set
• Instruction Manual
• Durable carrying case

How Strong is a Kreg Joint?

One of the best joints in woodwork is called the mortise and tenon. It’s a difficult joint to craft but it is very strong. Test have shown that they failed after being subjected to 453 pounds. The Kreg joint didn’t fail until subjected to a 707 pound sheer load!

What do you think? What have you made using the Kreg Jig?

New Low Self Discharge NiMH Battery vs NiCad and NiMH

Batteries have found their way into just about every area of life. Phones, cordless tools, remote controls, baby monitors and tons of other devices need batteries. Rechargeable batteries are a great investment for your wallet and the environment.

This post compares NiCad and NiMH batteries including the new Pre-charged NiMH. I’m skipping Lithium-ion batteries because they are usually manufactured as self-contained battery packs. Due to inherent dangers of Li-ion batteries, they require certain safety features which are built right into these packs. Unfortunately, these packs are not a typical option for many household electronics.

Battery Capacity

One of the most important differences between batteries is how much electrical energy they store. This is referred to as capacity and is measured in ampere-hours (Ah) or milliamp-hours (mAh). FYI, 1 Ah = 1000 mAh. Generally, the larger the battery, the more capacity it has. Be sure to double-check the capacity before purchasing batteries.

Nickel Cadmium (NiCad) Rechargeable Batteries

NiCad batteries are created from a nickel hydroxide as the positive electrode and cadmium metal or cadmium hydroxide as the negative electrode. NiCad batteries are commonly used to power laptop computers, cell phones, and cordless power tools.

But Cadmium is a toxic, heavy metal and is being used less and less. AA, NiCad batteries have a total capacity of up to 1,000 mAh and have a fairly high, self-discharge rate of about 1% per day (can be even higher for warmer temperatures). On top of it all, they suffer from the “memory effect”. This occurs when when your battery “thinks” that it is fully charged but it isn’t. That means it stops recharging before it should.

NiCad batteries do have a few things going for them. NiCads are very cost effective and have a very long working life. They can be recharged hundreds of times in a relatively short period.

Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) Rechargeable Batteries

NiMH batteries are created in a similar way to NiCad batteries except they use a hydrogen-absorbing alloy like lanthaniumnickel. NiMH can actually replace NiCad batteries are are used in lots of consumer electronics.

NiMH work especially well for devices the require a sudden high amperage discharge, such as digital cameras. AA, NiMH batteries have a total capacity of up to 2,700 mAh. That’s almost three times more than NiCad batteries. They don’t contain any toxins and are environmentally friendly. Plus, you don’t have to worry about loosing capacity to the “memory effect”.

However, NiMH batteries tend to have a shorter working life than NiCads. This is because they have a very high self-discharge rate of about 4% per day. They can’t go long in between charges. NiMH also create heat while they charge and so cannot be charged as quickly.

Ultra Low Self Discharge NiMH Batteries

Wouldn’t it be nice to have the best of both batteries? The new low, self-discharge NiMH batteries (a.k.a. ready to use) are just that. These batteries are environmentally friendly and work well in lots of consumer electronics including cameras. They don’t contain any toxins and hold charge well, only losing about 15% per year! AA versions of these new NiMH batteries have a total capacity of 2,000 mAh making them a great choice.

What do you think? What kind of rechargeable batteries do you use?
Image courtesy of awnisAlan

Nu-Wool Cellulose Insulation: A Possibility for Our Basement

Todd at Home Construction Improvement just posted a great article on installing Nu-Wool cellulose spray-in insulation.  The article caught my eye because we’re still considering the right insulation option for our basement walls.  According to Todd,

“[Cellulose insulation] is far superior to traditional fiberglass insulation for many reasons. However, the biggest reason is the ability to block air flow. In addition to that every little crevice is filled with insulation including small holes in the framing.”

This is appealing to us because the studs in our basement sit about 1.5 inches away from the concrete block wall.  With a spray in material like Nu-Wool, we could fill in every nook and cranny of the wall, including behind the studs which would yield a very air-tight, energy efficient seal.  As an added bonus, Nu-Wool is mold resistent, something we’d prefer in our basement’s materials.

What do you think? Have you considered spray-in cellulose insulation?

Wreaths, Bows & Candles – Festive But Simple Outdoor Christmas Decorating

Christmas is our favorite holiday, and the only one for which we store decor. Neither Fred or I are much on putting up things only to take them down a few weeks later. But Christmas is the exception, and ever since our first Christmas together in 2003, we’ve looked for exterior Christmas decor that a) is reasonably classy, and b) doesn’t require Fred to get up on a ladder. The latter is due to his fear of heights. The former is because his mom has us covered for light-up, blinky-moving-multi-colored objects for the yard.

So what to get to go with our complete family of light-up reindeer and our train with motion-simulating-smoke-stack?

We decided to borrow our neighbors’ idea and go with simple wreaths and bows in each window, along with the window candles we’ve always had (who DOESN’T?). So we went out after Christmas and hit the clearances at Michaels and Walmart.

We came home with 10 wreaths, 10 bows and a roll of velvet bow-making ribbon. Total cost for everything: less than $40. And we packed them away in rubbermaid tubs.

I was excited to break them out this weekend. Finally! And I assembled each wreath so that it hangs over the top of our upper window slider. It took me a couple hours to do everything, this year, since I was assembling, adjusting height, removing screens (the windows look better without them, plus we feared the weight of the wreaths might bend the tops of the screens over the next month or so), and running outside to check my work.

But it’ll go much more quickly every year we use them in the future, and I think they add a great seasonal touch to the front of our house!

What do you think? What seasonal decorating do you do at your place? Do you have any cost-saving tips for festive decorating?

Properly Seal your Duct Work to Save Money

Sealing your duct work is a great way to improve the energy efficiency of your home. Ducts run all through your home transporting hot and cold air. The less conditioned air lost en route, the better for your home and your wallet.

Benefits of Sealing your Ducts

Aside from being more comfortable, properly sealed ducts have some great advantages.

• Save money: Your HVAC system won’t have to work as hard for the same level of comfort. The Energy Star site says that leaky duct work can reduce your HVAC efficiency by 20%.
• Safety: Combustion gases are created by gas appliances like water heaters. Properly sealed ducts prevent combustion gases from leaking and remaining inside your house.
• Improved Air Quality: Leaky ducts carry dust, chemicals, and other items throughout your home. Sealed ducts help improve the indoor air quality of your home and keep your duct work clean
• Save the Environment: Lower HVAC energy requirements mean less pollution. ‘Nuff said.

Duct Problems to Look For

Here are some common trouble spots to look for.

• Duct connections: Make sure all the ducts are securely connected to registers and grills.
• Kinks: Flexible duct work may develop kinks that restrict air flow. Check that all the flexible ducts are tidy and kink-free.
• Duct leaks: Seal all duct connections with mastic, metal tape, or an aerosol-based sealant.

How to Seal Ducts

Sealing duct work is easier for new homes but if you have access, any DIYer can do this job.

Sealant Material Options

• Mastic – Mastic is a gummy adhesive that dries solid. I suggest using a water-based mastic as they release less fumes. Find a UL-181 rated mastic. These mastics are more flexible, longer lasting, and adhere to ducts better. Mastic is your best option to seal your ducts.
• Foil tape – This is aluminum foil tape with adhesive on one side. It should also be UL-181 rated.
• Aerosol sealant – This should be installed by a professional. They will pressurize your ducts and inject an aerosol sealant to plug leaks.

Begin by inspecting your duct work. Make sure everything is securely connected and fix any kinks you encounter. Turn on the HVAC system and try to feel out any leaks. Wipe the duct clean before sealing. Apply the mastic with your hand or a trowel but be careful of sharp edges. Use enough mastic to create a continuous coating with a 1/2″ overlap around any hole or joint.

Don’t Use Duct Tape!

Duct Tape is a a vinyl, fabric-reinforced, tape with adhesive on one side. Over time, duct tape will dry, crack, and eventually fall off. It’s not a good permanent solution.

What do you think? Ever notice air leaks? How did you seal them?
Image courtesy of Dano

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