How to Build Inexpensive Basement Storage Shelves

I finally built those shelves. My step-dad and I spent about 5 hours one morning constructing and setting up the shelves and they look amazing! We also tweaked the design and got the total cost way down from the original plan.

How to Construct Cheap Storage Shelves

The final design was much simpler than before. Basically, we built ladder supports with OSB shelves in between. The total dimensions are 12′ wide x 7′ tall x 2′ deep. Here are the required materials and costs. Everything was purchased from Lowes.

Materials and Cost to Build Shelves

• 2″x3″x8′ Pine, dimensional lumber @ 1.38 x 15ea. = $20.70
• 5/8″ OSB, 4×8 sheets @ 5.94 x 3ea. = $17.82
• 3″ screws to secure ladder supports to joists @ 5.94 x 1 box = $5.94
• 1 1/4″ screws to secure OSB shelves in place @ 5.94 x 1 box = $5.94
• Nails to build ladder frames
• 4 spare bricks

The total cost to build these shelves was about $42 dollars (after Lowes coupon).

Building the Shelves

We started by building the ladder supports (pictured here). It has two, 2×3’s, one on each side. And, more 2×3’s are nailed between them creating the “ladder rungs”. These rungs are on both the front and back and spaced 18″ apart.

We made two of these supports with ladder rungs on both sides and two more supports with ladder rungs only on one side. The single-sided supports are the end caps while the double-sided supports are placed in between.

Next, we anchored these supports to the floor joists above. We used 3″ screws to attach more 2×3 to the joists, and then our supports. Below, they sit on brick to keep them off the floor. Take care to keep everything level.

Lastly, we cut the OSB into 2′x4′ sections. The OSB is the shelf and spans the distance between adjacent ladder supports. It sits on top of the ladder rungs and is secured with 1 1/4″ screws.

Tips for Building Shelves

• Purchase good, straight boards.
• Keep the support structures square.
• Put block underneath to keep them off the floor. This is especially helpful if your basement floods

Pros and Cons

These shelves were easy to make. It’s a lot of the same cuts over and over. There are no difficult calculations and they go together quick. They can even be deconstructed (and moved) in a short amount of time. Best of all, these shelves are easy on the wallet. It would be tough to find better shelves for the price.

Here’s the only downside. The OSB can’t hold lots of weight. If you want something that can hold more weight, add some reinforcement underneath.

What do you think? What tips can you add?

Refurbished Ryobi 10 inch, Compound Miter Saw with Laser ZRTS1342L

Everyone knows how important a good miter saw is for any do-it-yourselfer. Half of all my projects involve a miter saw in some fashion. But, that doesn’t mean you have to spend hundreds of dollars to get one.

Reconditioned Ryobi, 10″ Compound Miter Saw With Laser

Amazon has an amazing deal for a factory reconditioned Ryboi Compound miter saw, only $69.95! And, this miter saw has all the important features.

• Heavy-duty 14 amp motor
• Single bevel and miter cut capability
• Electric brake stops the blade in seconds
• Carbide-tipped blade for a clean cut
• Laser guide for accuracy
• Horizontal D-handle for improved control
• 9 positive stops at the most common miter cutting angles
• Spindle lock for easy single-wrench blade changes

Are you worried about purchasing a reconditioned tool? Reconditioned means that the tool has been returned to the manufacturer, who brings the tool back to like new condition.

Cutting Capacities

The real question is how much can this miter saw cut. We’ll here are the numbers.

• Baseboard against fence: 3-1/2″
• Crown molding laying flat: 4-5/8″ (Bevel 33.9° x Miter 31.6°)
• 90° miter cut: 2″ x 6″ or 4″ x 4″
• 45° miter cut: 2″ x 4″

Other Miter Saw Specs

• Blade Arbor: 5/8″
• Blade Diameter: 10″
• 31 pounds shipping weight
• 5,500 RPM motor speed

This saw costs over $100, new at Home Depot. Save yourself some money and buy a Refurbished, Compound Miter Saw from Amazon for only $69.95!

What do you think? What’s your experience with the Ryobi miter saw?

How to Change the Oil in a Car or Truck (Example: Dodge Caravan)

Like everything else DIY, changing your own oil is a great way to fight the recession blues.  It’ll save you between 50-75% off what you might pay to one of those quick lube places… and, it probably takes a lot less time than you think.  Plus, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing that you can do it yourself!

Savings by Changing your Own Oil

Consider that the average oil change at the local quick lube place costs upwards of $35, while changing your own oil is around $9.  If you change your oil 4 times a year, that’s more than a $100 savings.  If you normally take advantage of the extra services at your favorite oil change location, you’re probably paying a 100% markup for parts and installation, when you could have done it yourself. 

High markup extras include things like changing the air filter, new bulbs for your headlights/taillights, transmission fluid changes, etc.  Many of these extras were designed to be maintained by the owner of the vehicle and not the shop.   Add all these extras up, and you could see a $200-300 maintenance upcharge over a 1 year period.

It Takes Less Time than You Think

Changing the oil in a typical automobile takes about 15-20 minutes.  For first timers, you can expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour, but trust me, you’ll get quicker and the investment will be well worth it.  Once you tackle this, you’ll be ready to do more of your own car maintenance, and you’ll be better equipped to maintain your other gas-powered equipment.

Tools Required to Change the Oil

There’s only a few tools needed to change the oil, many of which you probably already own.  Here’s what we used for this example.

1. Ramps (not shown) (note: Make sure you get ramps that fit under trim pieces on the front of your car.  Ensure the ramps have the proper weight-bearing capacity)
2. Plastic Oil Pan (we prefer the easy pour type)
3. 5 Gallon Gas Container (for storing old oil)
4. Oil Filter Socket (socket should be sized for the oil filter on your vehicle)
5. Ratchet*
6. Standard Socket* (socket should be sized for the screw on the bottom of your oil pan)
7. Funnel

* you can substitute the ratchet and standard socket for a wrench if you aren’t going to use an oil filter socket

Materials Required to Change the Oil

1. Synthetic or Regular Motor Oil (Be sure to use the proper-type oil for your vehicle.  The proper type will be listed in the owner’s manual and is usually listed as something like 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40.  Most vehicles will take between 4-6 qts. of oil.  You can save about 5% by purchasing oil by the gallon instead of by the quart
2. Oil Filter (Check your owner’s manual for the right filter type)
3. Paper Towels

Steps to Change the Oil in a Car or Truck

You should always follow the oil change steps included with your vehicle.  Below are the steps we followed for our Dodge Caravan.  Despite the long list, these are actually very simple steps that can be accomplished by a novice.

1. Place the ramps evenly in front of the front wheels of the vehicle.
2. Drive the vehicle up on to the ramps.  Put the auto in Park (automatic) or a gear (manual), engage the emergency/parking brake, and turn off the minivan.
3. Inspect the wheels and ramps to ensure the car or truck is completely on the ramps (wheels are stable), and there is no change the ramps will move.  Remember, you will need to get under the vehicle, so this step is important.
4. Climb under the car.
5. Locate the drain pan and drain bolt under the vehicle.  Place your oil pan under the drain pan bolt and remove the bolt.  Oil will begin to drain out of the drain pan into your pan. (note: use the right size socket to avoid stripping the head).
6. Once almost no oil is flowing out of the drain pan, replace the bolt and tighten.  (Note: do not overtighten the bolt as it could strip.  The owner’s manual will specificy the proper torque for the bolt.  If you have a torque wrench, you may use this instead of the socket to ensure perfect torque).
7. Locate the oil filter (usually close to the drain pan).  Place your pan under the filter. 
8. Using the oil filter socket, remove the filter.  As you remove the filter, oil will begin to drip around the filter.  Keep unscrewing the filter until it comes free from the car.  Allow the excess oil around the filter to drain into the pan.  (note: this is usually the messiest step).
9. Check the location where the filter is attached to the vehicle to ensure no residue is remaining from the prior filter (sometimes the gasket that is attached to the filter breaks down and sticks to the housing).  If the gasket remains, scrape it off.  This is rare, but can happen when the oil filter has not been changed for a long time.
10. Install your new oil filter with the oil filter wrench.  Tighten the filter against the housing, but do not overtighten.  Medium-strength hand tightening is appropriate.
11. Climb out from under the vehicle.
12. Locate the oil fill cap.  The cap is usually prominently labeled on top of the engine. 
13. Unscrew the cap. 
14. Fill the oil resevoir to 1 qt. less than is specified in the owner’s manual.  (e.g., if the manual says 5 qts are required, fill with 4 qts.)
15. After you get to within 1 qt. of the total fill, check the dipstick regularly to determine the exact amount of oil to put in.
16. When the dipstick reads full, replace the oil cap, and start the vehicle.  Allow the engine to run for 20 seconds, then turn the car off again.  This gets the oil moving around in the engine and will reveal additional capacity.  (Note, it is normal for the dashboard to report low oil pressure for the first few seconds on startup.  If it remains for more than 5 seconds, turn off the engine and check your work!)
17. Wait about 60 seconds and read the dipstick again.  In most vehicles, the dipstick will report about 1/2 qt. low.  Fill the engine with oil until the dipstick reads full again.  Note: Do not overfill!
18. Replace the oil cap and do a final inspection.  Ensure you (a) replaced and tightened the oil pan bolt; (b) replaced and tightened the oil filter, (c) filled the vehicle with new oil, and (d) replaced the oil fill cap.
19. Start the engine.  Listen for any issues.  If none are found, you’re done!

How to Dispose of Used Oil

Believe it or not, most auto parts stores have a giant resevoir in the back for used oil.  Customers are welcome use the resevoir, despite the feature being poorly advertised.  In our area, both Pep Boys and Advance offer this service. 

Remember: Auto parts stores want you to buy their oil, so they have every incentive to let you drop off your used oil!

We store used oil in a 5 gallon gas container.  Every oil change yields about 1.2 gallons of oil, so every 4 changes, I make a run to the auto parts store.  I buy all the materials for the next 4 changes at that trip.  I maintain two cars (for about 8 changes/year), yielding about 2 trips.

What do you think?  Do you change your own oil?

First photo courtesy of Robert Couse-Baker.

Skil Power Wrench Christmas Gift

My wife’s family enjoys a fun Christmas tradition called the White Elephant gift exchange. I think it’s a fun way to give and receive presents around the holidays without spending too much. And, it’s even more fun when people really get into it (which my wife’s family always does). Here’s more details about the gift exchange from Wikipedia.

Check out this finely crafted gift bag. This is the packaging of the gift I brought home from the gift exchange. Notice the duct tape exterior, plastic chain handle, and the clamps keeping the bag closed. In this case, the bag was a good indicator of what was inside.

Skil Cordless Power Wrench

Inside the bag was an awesome Skil Cordless Power Wrench!  I was really pumped to get this.

Power Wrench Features (according to Amazon.com)

• 7.2V Li-Ion power.
• Close Quarter ¼ square drive – Accepts standard sockets and driver bits.
• Extremely compact design lets you work in tight spaces.
• Lightweight – only 1.8 lbs.
• All metal gear train – For durability and long life.
• Torque output: Auto Mode 75 in-lbs :Manual Mode 400 in-lbs.
• Charger can be mounted to a wall to save table space.

I’m really excited to try out this tool. I always seem to end up working with very limited space and this tool is small but still powerful enough to do the work.

What do you think? What new tool did you get?

Refurbished Ryobi Drill Driver Lithium Ion Power Tool Combo Kit

If you’re in the market for a Lithium Ion-powered drill driver combo kit, this Refurbished Ryobi 18V Lithium Ion Drill Driver Combo Kit makes a compelling case to be your choice.  The kit normally retails for about $299 in the retail big box stores, but Amazon sells the kit factory reconditioned (refurbished) for $199 through their partner CPO Ryobi.  

Shipping costs $10, bringing the total to $209, but this is still about $90 cheaper than the retail version of this drill driver kit.  Also, Amazon doesn’t charge sales tax in many places, and you save the money on gas not driving to the store, making this a pretty great buy.  (Make sure to check price/shipping/tax information on Amazon’s site).

Included in the Ryobi Lithium Ion Drill Driver Combo Kit:

• 18V Lithium Ion (Li-ion) Drilll,
• 18V Cordless Li-ion Circular Saw (w/ blade),
• 18V Li-ion Reciprocating Saw and
• 18V Lithium-ion Worklight
• Two(2) 18V Li-ion Batteries
• Dual Chemistry Battery Charger (will work with some older Ryobi batteries as well).
• Tool Bag (in this fanastic green color).

Why Lithium-Ion Battery Technology is Important

We were excited to see 18V Lithium-Ion tools finally make it to the market in the past few years.  They offer nearly double the power density of other chemistry batteries, but require more sophisticated charging circuitry.  Only recently has the price tag dropped to the point where it makes sense to buy these tools for everyday use.

What to Expect from Ryobi Factory Reconditioned Tools

This is a factory reconditioned power tool. Reconditioned generally means that the tool has been returned to the manufacturer, who brings the tool back to like new condition. Some tools may contain cosmetic blemishes.

Welcome to the New Site!

Well, after many evenings working on the new site in our development environment, we’re finally ready to put down our tools and go live! We hope you like it!

You’ll find that most of the content hasn’t changed (in fact, all of our old posts are still here). You’ll also find that some things aren’t quite ready for prime time yet. Those features will either be described as in progress or they might just not work at all. If you find them, feel free to leave a comment on this post and we’ll make sure to address them when we can. (This will be especially true over the next 7 days as we’re working on the most critical components of the roll out).

New Features on One Project Closer

The bulk of the upgrade to our site is about the graphical presentation.  We really wanted to have a theme for the site that captured the DIY spirit of our blog.   We used the redesign to add a few new features to our blog that we’re real happy with.  Here they are, in no particular order:

• Home Improvement Coupons List – Have you ever walked away from a purchase at one of the big box home improvement stores to think to yourself: I could’ve gotten that cheaper…  We have, and that’s why we created the Home Improvement Coupons List.  See that links for more info.
• Community Blogs – This feature will display the latest articles from around the DIY blogosphere.  We haven’t finished this functionality yet.  When we do, you’ll see it become active on the home page.  For now, you can visit HouseBlogs, or Home Owners Like Us.
• Featured Content – This new area on the home page will highlight the most interesting content from our blog, and from other DIY blogs & sites around the web.  It will also display the latest Home Improvement Giveaways running on our site (to make it easier for you to find and enter the contests!)
• Author Pictures – Since we have four authors here at OPC, we decided it would be much easier for our readers to get to know us if they could put a name with a face.  Just look at the bottom of any post to see who wrote that article.
• E-mail & Print Options for Articles – This feature is *close* to implemented.  We’re still working some of the HTML and plugin options.  It will allow readers to print / e-mail any article on the site that they find particularly useful or interesting.

Special Thanks

We want to say a special thanks to Brian Gardner for his Revolution Themes. We bought Brian’s Revolution Music theme for Wordpress and customized it to look like what you see here.  Shortly thereafter, Brian discontinued the original Revolution Themes (including Music) in favor of new Revolution Two themes.  Brian is considering bringing back the original themes in 2009.  We think this is an excellent idea and hope that he does just that!

What do you think?  Let us know what you think of the new design!

Photo courtesy of fauxto_digit.

Happy Holidays from One Project Closer!

This year has been an exciting one for the four of us here at One Project Closer.  We reached our 400th article in December, and we’re looking forward to even more DIY blogging in 2009!  Thanks so much for reading, commenting, and stopping by so often.  You really make our day every time you do!

We’re going to spend the next few days with our families and friends, celebrating the joy of Christmas and getting ready for the New Year.  So, this is the last you’ll hear from us until Monday.

We’re also going to try to roll out the new version of this site that has been more than 4 months in the making.  We’ll still be running Wordpress, but with a nifty new theme and layout that we really think captures the home improvement spirit of our blog.

We hope your holidays are blessed!  We wish you a relaxing and refreshing time with your family and friends.  Most of all, we wish you peace and prosperity for the remainder of 2008 and through 2009!

Photo by krisdecurtis.

How to Install a Programmable Thermostat (Example: Honeywell)

I hooked up my new Honeywell Programmable Thermostat today and it was surprisingly easy. Honeywell includes a great set of instructions that was easy to follow.

Installing a New Thermostat

Note: Follow all the instructions that were included with your thermostat.  These instructions are only a summary.

Step 1: Before you start, make sure to turn off the power to your heating and cooling system.

Step 2: Next, you need to get the old thermostat off. Ours had two screws securing the faceplate and two more screws anchoring it to the wall. I saved these screws and was able to reuse the same drywall anchors.

Step 3: Honeywell included some small stickers to label all the wires. Tag each wire with it’s corresponding terminal. You might notice that some wires are not connected. This is common because thermostat wiring comes in different varieties and the wiring depends on your type of HVAC system.  The instructions will help you identify the right wires.

Step 4: Attach the new thermostat wallplate and feed the wires through the opening in the back.

Step 5: Now it’s time to connect the wires to the programmable thermostat. Match up the tags with the correct terminals. Loosen the terminal screws and insert the wires. Tighten the terminal screws and make sure the wire is secure.

I’ve relabeled the terminals so you can see them better. Notice that conventional HVAC systems differ from heat pump systems, but a programmable thermostat will work with both.

These are the wires I connected:

• Green – This is connected to the G terminal. This controls the furnace fan.
• Yellow – This is connected to the Y terminal and this controls the compressor for the air conditioning.
• White – This is connected to the W terminal and controls the heat.
• Red – Lastly, this is connected to the R terminal and mine is jumpered to the RC terminal. This is the source hot wire from the transformer.

Step 6: Insert any required batteries and snap the programmable thermostat onto the wallplate. Turn the power back on and start programming your temperatures.

Recommended Programmable Thermostat

If you’re in the market for a new thermostat, we like this 7-Day Touchscreen Programmable Thermostat from Honeywell, available from Home Depot at that link.  That’s the model we installed here, and as you can see, Honeywell really made the install easy.

What do you think? Ever install a thermostat?

Another Crazy Christmas Lights Display!

Every year someone really puts some effort into their house.  Here’s the latest edition we found on YouTube.  So much fun… It’ll really brighten your day (particularly if you’re one of the few who are still working today!)

What do you think? Do you know of another video?

Roof Designs: Terms, Types, and Pictures

Derek Pater recently contacted us to do a review of his unique roofing protractor system.  The tool simplifies many of the calculations that go into building a roof, and is useful for all types of roof designs.  Unfortunately, none of us here at OPC are planning to build a roof anytime soon, so we couldn’t help Derek out (except for providing him that link and letting you know about the tool if you’re planning to build a roof).

What was more interesting to us was some of the materials Derek forwarded along in his roofing protractor guide (which is available for download at that link if you want more information about the product).  For instance, page 4 of the guide provides a great beginner’s guide to roof types that Derek has authorized us to reprint here.  It is by no means a complete list of roof types (in fact, the list is restricted to those that are good candidates for his product).  But, it is interesting nonetheless.  Now, the next time you are driving by that house with the fantastic roof you just must have on your next house, you’ll know just what to call it

Roofing Design Types & Terms

• Gable: The upper portion of a sidewall that comes to a triangular point at the ridge of a sloping roof.
• Hip Roof: A type of roof containing sloping planes of the same pitch on each of four sides. A hip roof contains no gables.
• Gable Roof: A type of roof containing sloping planes of the same pitch on each side of the ridge. A gable roof typically contains a gable at each end.
• Skillion Roof: A Skillion Roof slopes from one side of the building to the other in a single span and no ridge. As a result the external walls are of varying heights.
• Lean-to Roof: A roof with one slope only that is built against a higher wall.
  Jerkinhead Roof: Consists of a Gable Roof with a truncated Hip Roof section at the top to reduce the height of the Gable.
• Dutch Gable: Is a combination of a Hip roof with a small Gable at the top and a
  sloping roof below.
• Gambrel roof: A type of roof containing two sloping planes of different pitch on each side of the ridge. The lower plane has a steeper slope than the upper. A gambrel roof usually contains a gable at each end, just like a standard gable roof.
• Mansard roof: A type of roof containing two sloping planes of different pitch on each of four sides. The lower plane has a much steeper pitch than the upper, often approaching vertical. It contains no Gables.
• Gazebo Roof: Often Hexagonal or Octagonal but usually symmetrical in their design.

Roof Type Pictures

What do you think? Did you learn something?  We did!

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