Door Knob and Deadbolt Replacement

In the name of Reduce, Reuse, Recycle, I just had occasion to install the former front door hardware from our rental onto our door to the garage in our home.

Ever since we moved in, the door to the garage has required a secret handshake to open.  Then, finally, the knob gave out all together, and it spun around in circles, doing nothing from the inside.  Fortunately our garage access was not actually blocked, since whatever happened that final time pulled the latch in just enough that the door could be pulled open or shut without requiring the knob to do anything but be a handle.

On the down side, to keep the door closed, we had to throw the deadbolt – a source of frustration to the person still inside the garage when one of us would notice, “huh!  the door’s not closed!” and then lock the other of us out there.  Oops.

But all that’s changed now!  We replaced the hardware at the rental and decided to use the old models on our own home.  (Not that new door hardware is expensive – $20 or so at a Big Box … but it was just one of those things we were “living with” until now).

Since it’s tremendously easy to do, no one should ever be as silly as we were and not replace broken hardware.  Here’s the tools and steps to replace a deadbolt and lock on a door:

Tools Required

Requires only a phillips-head screwdriver.

Steps to Replace a DeadBolt and Door Knob

Step 1: Deadbolt Removal – Unscrew the two screws on the face of the deadbolt, and pull the two sides (the one on either side of the door) apart from one another.  Unscrew the plate holding the bolt itself into the end of the door, and slide the bolt out.

Step 2: Knob Removal – Repeat Deadbolt removal process for knob.

Step 3: Slide Deadbolt latch into door (it indicates which side is “Up”).  Then connect the two sides of the deadbolt through it, and tighten the screws.

Step 4:  Insert the knob latch through the side hole on the door, then slide the half of the knob with the rod through it.  To attach the other half of the knob, note the orientation of the hole on that half – the rod should be oriented so that it can fit snugly.  Then tighten the screws to attach both sides of the knob together.

Step 5: Check strike plate to verify that the door latches (I ended up having to move ours about a half-centimeter, so that it would “catch” and actually latch the door closed).

Final Thoughts

We hope this quick tip helped you if you’re thinking about replacing door hardware but are a little intimidated.  Dont’ worry, all new door knob hardware comes with detailed instructions and the job is actually really easy.  You shouldn’t wait as long as we did

What do you think? Are you holding off on a project that you know is easy?

GE Side-by-side Refrigerator Review (GSS25WG)

If you troll Craigslist, every now and then you find an amazing deal that you have to jump on quickly. That’s how Jocie and I found our refrigerator. She looked for quite some time before finding this awesome fridge.

GE GSS25WG Refrigerator

General Summary

This is a side-by-side, refrigerator, freezer with a water and ice dispenser. The fridge has a black-on-black finish with matching handles.

• Dimensions: 70″ tall x 32″ deep x [15" freezer + 20" refrigerator =] 36″ wide
• 320 lbs.
• Total Capacity of 25.40 cu ft

Refrigerator Compartment

The right side door opens the refrigerator. The main compartment is larger than the freezer side by about 5 inches. It has a total fresh food capacity of 15.90 cu ft.

It features 4 total shelves, 3 of which are height adjustable. You simply slide them out and onto another track. These shelves are glass, spill-proof and have little tabs to prevent accidentally pulling them out.

There are 3 humidity controlled bins for snacks, fruits and vegetables, and a bottom bin. There is a slider bar on each that regulates the humidity.

There is one light at the top that illuminates the entire refrigerator. It’s covered so you don’t have to worry about hitting the bulb. The water filter is right next to it. It’s really easy to change the filter. Simply unscrew the old filter and replace with a new one. Press the filter button by the water dispenser to reset.

The refrigerator door also has some great storage. I’ll start at the top and work down.

The door has a covered bin that we use for butter and butter-esque items. It has a plastic cover that slides down over it.

Next, is the “In-the-Door Can Rack”. This rack has two rows of angled shelves fitted for 12 oz. cans.

The door also has 4 bins. 2 bins are adjustable and can hold gallon sized containers. It’s great to be able to fit a gallon of OJ next to a gallon of milk.

Freezer Compartment

The left side door opens the freezer. This side is smaller with a total freezer capacity of 9.49 cu ft.

The ice maker and storage are at the top. Below that are 4, wire frame, shelves. 3 shelves can be adjusted much like the fridge shelves. At the bottom is 1 sliding wire bin.

The freezer door features 5, shallow, fixed storage areas. They are good for holding small items like ice cream bars.

There is a light about mid-height that provides modest light for the freezer.

In-Door Controls and Dispenser

Inset into the freezer door is dispenser and a few controls.

• Digital temperature control – Lets you set the freezer and refrigerator temperatures. It displays the set temperatures and the actual temperature.
• Door alarm – Will start to beep if either door is left open too long.
• Filter change – Alerts you when it’s time to change the filter. Just press and hold to reset. This refrigerator uses GE Water Filtration Plus filters.
• Light – Optional light for the dispenser.
• Lock – You can lock the dispenser. This is amazingly helpful if you have small children who can’t quite manage the dispenser without help.
• Ice dispenser – Cubed or crushed ice dispenser. Sometimes you need to wait 10 seconds before it actually starts dispensing.
• Water dispenser – Can dispense chilled water.

Pros

There’s a lot of like about this fridge.

• It has great storage. When we upgraded, Jocie and I were amazed at how much more this fridge could hold.
• It’s Energy Star rated meaning it saves us money.
• Easy to clean. A lot of the shelves and bins are adjustable, meaning they can be removed. That makes cleaning them a lot easier.
• This fridge is quiet. I don’t think I’ve ever really noticed any noise from the fridge.
• The doors are easy to remove. This might sound strange but it was really helpful when we moved the fridge.

Cons

My only complaint is more about the side-by-side style than the fridge itself. If you purchase a side-by-side style fridge, make sure you have extra room on both sides to open the doors. If you place this fridge next to a wall, the door cannot completely open limiting your access the what’s inside.

What do you think? What features do you love / hate about your fridge?

How to Replace a Plug on an Extension Cord

Check out the latest addition to our shop: a fantastic 20 foot, 4-plug extension cord.

Our good buddy Chuck rescued four of these heavy-duty extension cords just before they were chucked into a local dumpster. Apparently, during a remodel these cords were no longer useful because they weren’t long enough for the new configuration.

We always find ourselves short on extension cords and needing to swap which tool is plugged in to their solo outlets.  So, Chuck, a big thanks to you for solving yet another problem for us.

The only issue with our new extension cord is the plug on the end, which is a 20-amp 3 prong locking-style plug.  If you squint on this picture, you’ll notice that the brown receptacles on the other end each bear a sideways “T” for their left plug, indicating they can handle a 20-amp load.

We don’t have a locking-style 20-amp receptacle anywhere, so we’ve decided to replace the 20-amp plug with a traditional 3-prong 15-amp plug.  The only potential danger here is that we’re not going to change out the receptacles with 15-amp receptacles to save on cost.  If you were to plug in a 20-amp tool, you would blow the breaker on any 15 amp circuit you were connected to.  This isn’t really a danger for us since (a) we don’t own any 20-amp tools, (b) we’ll tell people when we loan them the cord, and (c) it doesn’t pose a significantly greater risk than the existing risk of plugging in two 10-amp tools and using them simultaneously.

This type of plug replacement is quick and easy and can be done with a simple screwdriver and a replacement plug that can be purchased from any of the big box improvement stores.  Here’s the steps we followed:

Steps to Replace a Plug on an Extension Cord

Step 1:  Remove the screws holding on the original plug end, and pull away the cover.

Step 2: Loosen the screws holding the wires and pull off the plug so that only the insulation and bare wires remain.

Step 3: Put the new plug housing on the existing wire and tighten the wires into the new terminals. Note the convention:  Black wire -> Gold terminal;  White wire -> Silver Terminal;  Green Wire -> Green Terminal.  (great tip 1shotrising).

Step 4: Pull the plug housing toward the front of the plug and tighten everything in place.  You’re done!

One Additional Tip

Make sure you use a plug appropriate for the wire.  In this case, we’re moving to a lower-amp plug, which is safe.  You wouldn’t want to take an extension cord rated for 15-amps and put a 20-amp locking plug on it.  The cord might overheat during us, posing a fire hazard.

What do you think? What’s the latest thing you’ve rescued from the dumpster?

Create Inexpensive Fabric Wall Hanging Decor

As you may have read in earlier posts, I am working to finish the nursery before Izzie arrives, due February 4th. I registered for canvas wall art to match the bed set, costing $29.99 for two, 12 x 12″ canvas wall hangings. Since I did not receive them at my shower, and felt that they were a luxury more than a necessity, I decided to make my own wall art to save a few dollars.

Cost of Making 2, 19 x 19″ Fabric Wall Hangings

• 19 x 19″ wood frames from Ikea = $4.99 each x 2 = $9.98
• Two yards of fabric to cover the frame = $9.98
• One yard of fabric for the design = $2.49
• HeatNBond Lite Iron-on Adhesive = $3.99

TOTAL: $26.44

Supplies Needed for DIY Wall Hanging

• Wood Frames
• Fabric to cover frame and decorate
• Heat N Bond Adhesive, enough to cover “design” fabric
• Fabric scissors
• Iron
• Staples and staple gun
• Level, tape measure
• Nails, hammer

How to Make a Fabric Wall Hanging

1. Buy the supplies. By far, finding the right fabric was the most time-consuming step for me. The fabric was also the most costly aspect of the project, but you can find clearance and sale fabrics to reduce the cost.

2. Assembling the wood frames is very easy. There are four pieces of wood that fit together to form a frame. Two screws go in each end. Go slow and be careful not to split the wood or strip the screw. Place frames to the side until step 10.

3. Iron the fabrics on low heat to get rid of any wrinkles. You can pre-wash the fabrics, but since the fabric will not be washed or worn once hung, it is not needed.

4. Cut out the base fabric to cover the frame. Make sure to leave extra on each side to stretch over frame and affix. I suggest actually placing the fabric over the frame to ensure there will be enough. (measure twice, cut once). Put this fabric to the side until step 8.

5. Place HeatNBond (HNB) onto the fabric you will be using for the design, glue side down (paper side up) to cover the fabric. Iron the paper side of HNB using low heat, ironing small sections for 2 – 3 seconds then moving to next section until complete. This will bond the glue to the fabric. Do not remove the paper after ironing!

6. Using a pencil (and stencil, if desired), draw your design onto the paper backing of HNB. I drew my design free-hand using the bed set design as inspiration. Also, make sure and refer back to the frame to ensure the design is a good size and proportion.

7. Use fabric scissors (smaller ones for more detailed designs) to cut out your design.

8. Remove HNB paper backing and place cut-outs (glue side down) on top of the base fabric that will be stretched over the frame. Be sure the design is centered within the visible space (not the borders that will be stapled behind the frame).

9. Once the design is in place, iron small sections on low heat for 8 – 10 seconds. Pick up the iron before moving on to next section. Sliding the iron can disrupt the design. Double check to make sure the fabrics have bonded together. If not, iron again for an additional 4 – 5 seconds until bonded.

10. Place base fabric face down on a sturdy, flat surface. Then place frame on top, centering the design (which is face down) as desired.

11. Starting on the bottom edge, stretch the fabric around the frame. Use a staple gun to secure the fabric to the frame. Place your first staple midway along the frame. Continue toward the corners, alternating left and right. This ensures equal pulling of the fabric, which is very important as you complete the other three sides.

12. Repeat step 11, continuing with top side, then left and right sides. It is important to stretch opposing sides of the fabric in order so that the fabric does not ripple in the frame.

13. Lightly hammer any staples that do not completely enter flush.

14. Trim excess fabric if desired.

15. Use level and tape measure to plan where you will hang your beautiful new wall decor.

16. Use hammer and nails to hang decor. Depending on the weight of the wood frame, you may want to use drywall screws or anchors. The Ikea frames are very light and therefore I used nails.

Overall, this was an enjoyable process for me. I spent several hours shopping for the fabric, but the actual making of the wall hangings only took about a hour and a half. I saved a little money, only spending $26.44 instead of $29.95, but got much larger wall hangings, 19 x 19″ rather than 12 x 12″. More importantly, it gave the nursery a more personal, creative touch that was well worth the time and money.

Additional Reading
Fred and Kim picked up some amazing Central American Art that really introduces some bold colors. Check it out!

What do you think? Have you ever made your own wall hanging? Any tips or suggestions?

REDIRECTED: Porter Cable Hardwood Flooring Toe Nailer (Cleat Nailer)

If you’ve read here for any amount of time, you know we’re big fans of hardwood floors.  Hardwoods are one of the easiest ways to add beauty and lasting value to your home.  By doing the job yourself, you can see a fantastic return on investment of up to 50% or more over the total cost of materials and tools when you sell your home.

This article provides a brief overview of hardwood flooring nailers in general.  At the bottom of this article, we provide additional information on one hardwood flooring nailer we often recommend, the Pneumatic Hardwood Flooring Nailer (official site) by Porter Cable.

Hardwood Flooring Toe Nailers

The most important tool for installing hardwood floors is the hardwood flooring nailer (also called a toe nailer or cleat nailer). Hardwood flooring nailers fasten a hardwood board into the subfloor by driving a fastener (usually a cleat, or L-shaped nail) through the side of the board, just above the tongue, down into the subfloor.  As the next board is applied, the fastener from the prior board is covered by the new board’s groove, creating a tight bond that can’t be seen on the surface of the floor.

Pneumatic vs. Manual Hardwood Nailers

In order to drive a cleat down through wood into a subfloor with one shot you must apply a significant amount of force to the cleat head. Manual hardwood flooring nailers, like this one from Bostitch, use an internal spring mechanism to store mechanical energy.  When the spring is tightened enough, a switch is thrown and it drives the fastener into the board.  For each fastener, you’ll have to hit the nailer 3-4 times to store enough mechanical force.  We don’t recommend a manual nailer unless you are doing a very small area.  They require a great deal of additional work, and are more likely to produce a looser, less professional looking installation.

Pneumatic hardwood flooring nailers use compressed air to augment the installer’s swing.  The result is each fastener being delivered through the board and subfloor with only one, relatively light swing.  Pneumatic nailers produce a tight, professional installation and retain a great deal of resale value.

Recommended Porter Cable Pneumatic Hardwood Flooring Nailer

For this job, we recommend Porter Cable’s Pneumatic Hardwood Flooring Nailer (pictured to the right with everything that comes with it).  This flooring nailer provides all the essentials for solid hardwood installation: consistent, reliable drive, large nail capacity, ability to fit into most tight spaces, incredibly easy to get up and running, and relatively lightweight.  This nailer is a bit spendy–unfortunately all high quality hardwood flooring nailers are.  But, when you consider the savings over paying for a professional installation, a pneumatic hardwood nailer makes sense.

Also, you’ll have the nailer for future homes, projects, to share with friends, etc.  On the plus side, if you buy at the link below, Amazon doesn’t charge sales tax in most places, and shipping is free.  That could be a savings of 5-10% off buying locally.

Sealing Your Countertop

Properly sealing your countertop is important to maintain the beauty of your countertop and prevent unwanted substances (chemical, germs) from finding their way in. It’s an easy job that anyone can accomplish and something to keep in mind as you compare countertop materials.

What Countertop Materials Require Sealing

Not all countertops need to be sealed. That’s because not all countertops are porous. And, some manufacturers add a permanent seal. These countertops typically carry a 10 – 15 year limited warranty. Double check if your countertop needs to be sealed. This is a list of porous countertop materials that require a sealer.

• Granite
• Marble
• Concrete
• Limestone
• Sandstone
• Flagstone

How to Apply Countertop Sealant

The goal of sealing your countertop is to create an impregnable layer between the countertop and everything else. But, you have to take care not to seal in anything that shouldn’t be there. These are the general instructions that I followed to seal my countertops. These instructions should not be used in place of manufacturers directions.

Step 1: Clean your countertop. Remove any items and go over it with a clean, dry rag.

Step 2: Use a countertop cleaner to disinfect and thoroughly clean the surface. Dry the countertop and let it sit for a few hours.

Step 3: Apply the sealant with a brush, clean cloth, or spray. Let it sit for 3 – 5 minutes to allow the stone to absorb the sealer. Apply more sealant, and use a clean cloth to remove any excess.

Step 4: Allow the countertop to completely dry (approximately 2 hours) and repeat step 3. You want two coats of sealant protecting your countertop.

Step 5: Let your countertop completely dry.

Over time this sealant layer can be worn down, so this process should be repeated about once a year. An easy way to test your countertop sealant is to place a few beads of water on it. Let the water sit for about 30 minutes and then wipe away. If the countertop darkened, then some of the water was absorbed and it needs to be sealed again.

Choosing a Countertop Sealant

I have granite countertops and have sealed them using Stone Care International Stone Spray-N-Seal, 32oz. Applying the seal was easy and the countertops look great!

What do you think? What sealant do you use? Ever had a stain in your countertop?
Image courtesy of Allen Chu

Laundry Chutes: Pros & Cons

I think at first it was mostly a sentimental attachment.  In our new house full of DIY projects I had gained one feature I always wanted: a laundry chute from the upstairs to the laundry room below.   My grandparents had one in their home; and my cousins, siblings and I spent many fun-filled hours dropping items from the 2nd floor, racing down the two stories to the basement, and retrieving them from the pile on the floor.  Then when that got old, we just hollered to one another through the chute doors and could be heard throughout the house (looking back, I’m sure my grandmother LOVED this game!).

Now that I’m the mom using it, I love it just as much.  We all just throw our dirty clothes down the chute at the end of the day, so there are no hampers to carry around, no musty smells from sweaty little boys’ outfits, and I’ve even almost gotten Fred to use the chute consistently as an alternative to his life-long habit of just dropping his old clothes on the floor (thanks, so much, Mom-in-law, for allowing that to fly in your house).

But builders are sometimes resistent to add laundry chutes to homes, these days.  My aunt and uncle wanted one in their vacation home (it’s in the genes, I guess), and a couple builders they consulted just flat-out refused to install them.  So they went with one who would.  Their experience  got me researching.  What are the actual risks?  Since we’re going to need to move ours eventually to make room for a pantry relocation, would we want to just eliminate it altogether?

After some reading, here’s what I’ve found:

The Cons:

• Like stairwells, laundry chutes are an opening that can allow a fire to spread from one floor of a house to another more rapidly.
• Unsupervised children may try to throw pets – or each other – down the chute, thinking it’s a slide.
• The bottom of the chute dictates furniture and appliance placement in the room below.  Laundry shouldn’t fall into a spot that could create a fire or tripping hazard.

The Pros:

• Hampers can stay in the laundry room – a place to store sorted laundry before washing.  They don’t need to be lugged up and down the stairs, and the laundry lands right next to the washing machine.
• Everyone’s laundry goes to the same place.  As the one with primary laundry duties in our home, I appreciate not having to go room-to-room to collect the dirty clothes.  And it was easy to convince our kids, from toddlerhood on, to use the chute!
• Most of the hazard can be prevented with a good design.  My aunt’s and uncle’s, for example, opens into a wall cabinet in the laundry room at the bottom and is situated behind a bathroom door and up on the top of a built-up knee wall, above small-child height.  Their grandkids don’t even know it’s there.

We have pretty much decided to keep ours as well, even when we do need to move it.  As we plan on adding more kids to our family – meaning even MORE clothes for me to cycle through - I love the convenience too much to give it up.  And yes, every once in a while, I do use the chute to call to my kids on the other floor of the house.  Just like old times.

What do you think? What “little thing” about your house is your favorite?  Do you have pros/cons I missed to share about these chutes?

Make Hanging Wood Letters

As we prepare for the arrival of our newest addition, Isabella Faith (Izzie), I have been working on transforming the office into a nursery (Before/After coming soon!). A friend of mine bought letters from Babies R Us to spell out the name of her baby on the wall. I loved the look, but each letter cost $7.99 x 5 letters = $39.95. There were other letters available, but ranged from $7.99 – 29.99 each! This is more than I am ready to spend on wall decor considering how much we will need to be spending on other, more vital items such as diapers. So I decided to shop around for unfinished wood letters and paint them myself. I found a very pretty set at Joann Fabrics for $2.49 per letter, saving me $27.50! WOW!

Finishing 5-1/2 inch Wood Letters

Tools/Supplies needed:

• sandpaper
• paint brush
• primer
• paint
• staple gun
• ribbon
• level and tape measure
• nails and hammer

How to do it:
1. Lightly sand each letter to smooth out rough edges and get rid of small splinters.

2. Prime each letter using your favorite primer. See my previous post on which primers work best.

3. Once the primer has dried, paint each letter. I used Duron, One-coat white because I had some left over from a previous project. Sadly, I needed two coats to provide a more even finish. Make sure the first coat of paint has dried before painting your second coat. For more information on what paint is worth the price, see my paint comparison post.

4. For extra detail and color, paint dots or stripes on the letters. Tip: Use painter’s tape on the letters for more straight stripes, and remove tape while paint is wet or soft (not dry).

5. After the paint is completely dried, cut ribbon to desired length and use a staple gun to affix ribbon to back of letters. Try to keep the ribbon the same length. You can use one of the letters as a template for the others.

6. Use a level and tape measure to plan the hanging of your letters. As the letters are light, I used nails instead of screws or wall anchors. Place nails, hang the letters, then tie a pretty bow to hide the nail.

7. ENJOY!

Overall, it was a very easy process that saved me lots of money, especially since I was able to use supplies we already had such as primer, paint, and staples.

What do you think? Have you painted unfinished wood letters? Any tips or suggestions?

Adjust Electric Water Heater Temperature (Step-by-Step Instructions)

Since I just had to do this for our adoption home inspection, I thought I’d post a step-by-step for anyone else who wants to change your hot water temperature.

Why Adjust Hot Water Temperature?

If you can stand shorter (or cooler) showers, turning down the thermostat on your water heater is a great way to save on your electric bill each month.  Also, according to the EERE, a lower hot water temperature reduces mineral build-up and slows corrosion of your hot water pipes.  That’s not why we did it, though.  We just wanted to make sure our faucet readings were well below the 120-degree upper-limit for an adoption inspection.

Note that setting your water heater temperature too high is dangerous, and can result in scalding.  Setting the temperature too low may reduce your dishwasher or washing machine’s cleaning power if they lack an internal heater.  A temperature between 120F and 125F is ideal for most situations.

Here’s general instructions for how to adjust an electric water heater’s thermostats (there are two, one at the bottom and one at the top).  Consult the owner’s manual that came with your water heater for instructions for your particular model.

Steps to Set Water Heater Temperature

THE TOOLS: You will need a phillips-head and a flat-head screwdriver.

STEP 1: CUT THE POWER – Before you do anything flip the breaker or pull the fuse to turn off the power supply to your water heater, so you don’t electrocute yourself!

STEP 2: LOCATE THE TWO THERMOSTAT COVERS – one at the top and one near the base of the water heater.  (In our picture, the two gray doors)

STEP 3: REMOVE THE COVERS – using the phillips-head screwdriver.  Save the screws in a safe place, since they’re tiny and easily lost.

STEP 4: REMOVE THE INSULATION behind each cover door to reveal the thermostat behind it.

STEP 5: READ THE EXISTING TEMPERATURE – The white triangle on the rotating dial points to a spot between two labeled temperature levels.

STEP 6: TURN THE DIAL to your desired temperature, using the flat-head screwdriver.

STEP 7: REPEAT ON SECOND THERMOSTAT.

STEP 8: REPLACE THE INSULATION.

STEP 9: REPLACE THE COVERS OVER BOTH THERMOSTATS.

STEP 10: FLIP THE BREAKER TO RESTORE POWER TO THE WATER HEATER.

What do you think? What temperature is your water heater set to?  Have you adjusted it to save money?

Finish Nailer for Baseboard, Quarter Round, and Shoe Molding Trim

Installing baseboard, quarter round and/or shoe molding is one of the most tedious parts of a flooring installation.  To do this job by hand, you’d need a box of finish nails, a hammer, a stud funding, a nail set, and hours upon hours of patience and perseverance.

Fortunately, there’s a better way.  The pneumatic finish nailer makes quick work of baseboard, quarter round, and shoe molding installation by nailing and countersinking finish nails by simply pulling a trigger.  The time savings over a manual installation is about 90%  (for every hour of work with a hammer and nail set, you’ll need only 6 minutes with a finish nailer).  Finish nailers are easy to use even for the most novice baseboard installer and will guarantee a professional look.

We’ve personally done this job both ways (hammers, nails, bruised thumbs) on the one hand, darn quick fastening on the other.  We’ll never go back.

Angled vs. Straight Finish Nailers

FInish nailers can be either angled or straight.  An angled nailer holds the nail clip at a 20-45 degree angle from the drive piston, making it easier to get into tight spaces.  A straight, or regular finish nailers holds the nail clip approximately 90 degrees from the firing piston, making it bulkier to get into tight spaces.  Angled nailers cost slightly more as do their nails (they are usually a lower gauge), but may be worth the additional cost for their practicality in some applications (e.g., very tight spaces).  If you are installing baseboard, quarter round, or shoe molding in most rooms, an angle finish nailer isn’t required and we wouldn’t pay the extra $ for it.  Besides, the lower gauge (read: larger nails) may split the boards.

Recommended Nailer For Baseboard/Molding Installations

If you already own a compressor and only need a pneumatic finish nailer, we recommend a right angle nailer from Bostitch (see further down if you don’t own a compressor): The Bostitch nailer is a lightweight, magnesium-housing nailer that will handle any baseboard, quarter-round, or shoe molding installation.  It can fire 1.25-2.5 inch nails making it suitable for a wide range of application and wood thicknesses.  As a bonus, it comes with a carrying case, ships for free, and Amazon (the reseller tagged in the link above) doesn’t charge sales tax in most places, making this an excellent buy.

Recommended Finish Nailer (w/ Compressor)

If you need a compressor and finish nailer, we highly recommend buying a three nailer kit.  You’ll basically pay for the compressor and one nailer, and get the second and third nailer for free.

Bostitch makes an excellent three nailer kit on Amazon.

Same deal as above — Amazon doesn’t charge shipping on this item, and also doesn’t charge sales tax in most places, making this about 5-10% cheaper than buying locally.

What do you think? Do you own these nailers?  Have you installed quarter round?  Weigh in below and tell us your experience…

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