Thermostats for Electric Radiant Heated Flooring

As we’ve written here in a dozen different articles, radiant heated floors are growing in popularity as a luxury upgrade to modern homes, and DIY radiant installation is a relatively easy project. There’s nothing quite like a heated bathroom floor early in the morning, or the cozy feel of a warm family room floor old a cold Winter night.

With each radiant flooring installation, you’ve got a couple of control options for how the temperature of the floor is set and maintained.  Each has implications for the floor, the room, and your radiant floor’s energy consumption.  Here’s the rundown of control types available to homeowners.

Plain Switch Only – No Thermostat Installed

The simplest electric radiant installation isn’t controlled by a thermostat at all.  Instead, its simply turned off and on by a switch.  This option, which costs nothing more than a $2.00 switch at installation, is likely to cost much more in the future.  Inevitably, switches are left on by accident, which could allow the floor to heat up into the high 80s F (or in some installations, even hotter).  Also, since radiant floors can take time to heat-up, a switch is only a good option when a delay is acceptable between the time the floor is turned on and when it needs to be warm.  Unless you are doing a bargain-basement installation with some pretty unsual circumstances, avoid this option.

• Pros: Simple installation.  Inexpensive installation cost.
• Cons: Likely to waste energy and cost more in the long run.  Delays usability time.  May cause the floor to heat up to an uncomfortable level if accidentally left on.

Timer – No Thermostat

One step up from a plain switch is a standard timer-style switch.  Standard timer switches eliminate the need for the user to remember to turn off the floor, which dramatically reduces waste.  These switches still require the user to set them before the floor heats up, which means they retain the delayed gratification downfall of the standard switch.  For certain installations, including bathrooms, a timer switch may be a good, inexpensive option.

• Pros: Simple, inexpensive installation.  Saves money by automatically turning off a floor that isn’t in use.
• Cons: Delays usability time.  May have to be constantly reset if the room is being used for more time than the max set time on the timer.

Simple Thermostat

Next up is the simple thermostat, which allows the user to set a temperature at which the floor will cycle on and off based on a temperature sensor. Both standard and programmable thermostats can be governed by in-floor, in-room, or both in-floor & in-room sensors (see below for a discussion on these).

In some ways, the simple thermostat is as bad as the plain switch option, but costs more to install. Unless the floor is the sole heating source for the area, it likely shouldn’t be allowed to run all day which a simple thermostat will allow. The only advantage: the simple thermostat will prevent a floor from over-heating or running when it really makes no sense (e.g., when the temperature of the sensor exceeds the thermostat setting).

• Pros: Maintains comfort & prevents the floor/room from overheating.  Saves energy over a plain switch, but likely not over a timer.
• Cons: Wastes energy by running the floor even when not in use.  More expensive than simple switch & timer  installations.

Programmable Thermostat

The best (but most expensive) installation option is the programmable thermostat.  Programmable thermostats work similarly to their non-programmable counterparts and much like programmable thermostats for traditional HVAC systems. A typical programmable thermostat will offer 4 cycle times on weekdays (wakeup, leave, return, and sleep), and 2 cycle times on weekend days (wakeup and sleep).  These thermostats will also have a manual override setting that allows the user to hold a temperature on holidays.  Over the long haul, a properly set programmable thermostat offers the best comfort / cost tradeoff, which makes the most of energy dollars.

• Pros: Optimizes energy use / comfort of the floor.
• Cons: Higher installation cost.  May be difficult to program which discouarges proper use.

Sensor Types for Radiant Floor Thermostats

Thermostats for electric radiant floors will require a sensor to detect the temperature of either the floor or the room.  There are three types of thermostat sensor control systems.

In-Floor Sensor: In this setup, the thermostat only controls the temperature of the floor.  This type of installation is appropriate when an electric radiant system isn’t the primary heat source for the space.  At least one back-up sensor should be installed for each active sensor.

In-Room Sensor: In this setup, the thermostat controls the temperature of the room.  This type of installation is appropriate when an electric radiant system is the primary heat source for the room.  It is also an easy replacement option if the floor sensor goes bad.

In-Floor and In-Room Sensor: In this dual-sensor setup, the thermostat primarily controls the temperature of the room, but may be secondarily limited by the temperature of the floor.  This setup is appropriate if there is concern over the floor becoming too hot while the room does not heat up (for instance, in poorly insulated rooms).  Our take: this setup is probably a waste of money and indicates a flaw in either the room or the flooring installation.

What do you think? Have you installed radiant heated floors? Which thermostat / sensor option did you choose… and why?

ProVision 300 Flexible Fiberscope Review

I got a new toy tool over the weekend. I was in Pennsylvania with my wife’s brother in-law (Jocie’s sister’s husband) when he held up a long, skinny box and asked if I wanted it. At first, I thought it was a level in a case. But, I was wrong. Inside the case was a flexible fiberscope!

What is a ProVision 300 Flexible Fiberscope?

A flexible fiberscope is a amazing inspection tool that allows you to see around corners and into tight places. This device utilizes flexible fibers to transmit light to an eyepiece. Here’s are a few more details:

• 36″ long flexible shaft.
• ABS plastic and flexible sheathing will hold a position until you change it.
• Shaft is water resistant.
• Integrated lamp to illuminate dark areas.
• 8″ bend radius.
• Durable carrying case included.

For newer fiberscopes, check out the ProVision site.

How Flexible Fiberscopes Work

The key to fiberscopes is the tightly packed bundle of fibers. These fibers are aligned so that both ends are positioned exactly the same. As long as there is light, you’ll see what’s on the other end. That makes the integrated lamp so very useful. The only danger is bending the fibers so much that they break. As fibers break, the image degrades. That’s why it’s important to use the scope carefully and always store it in the carrying case. Click here for more information about optical fiber from Wikipedia.

Projects and Uses for a Flexible Fiberscope

There are tons of applications for a fiberscope.

• Electricians – I wish I had one of these when I ran that speaker wire. I’d be able to better avoid snags and help guide the wire that much further. This could be a huge help for an electrician running any kind of wire.
• Carpenters – How many projects involve knocking out a portion of a wall or removing a bulkhead? With a fiberscope, you can check what’s inside before you make a major mistake.
• Mechanics – Mechanics use fiberscopes to inspect engines and other hard to see areas.
• Exterminators / Home Inspectors – One of the first things I tried was examining a hole in my mortar. I had no idea the hole went so deep. This is a great tool to find out where the bugs are getting in or what kind of damage has been done.
• Plumbing – I suppose you could look down a drain. The shaft is waterproof. But, I’m not sure I want to see any clogs up close.

Image Quality

Info online says this scope has a high resolution lens providing a clear image. I wouldn’t compare the image quality of the scope to a plasma television, however, you can clearly see objects as close as 3/4″, and as far away as one foot. The integrated light casts a yellow glow. The picture above is a look inside a hole in my brick mortar.

What do you think? Ever use a fiberscope? What project would you use it for?

Garden Mulch Tip: Use Paper to Prevent Weed Growth

There’s nothing like a freshly-mulched garden for upping your curb appeal on-the-cheap.  But if you live in an area that’s humid and critter-filled, like we do, it takes about a week for weeds to start poking through the mulch, rapidly overtaking the garden space once again and requiring constant monitoring and pulling.

Now I love gardening.  But weeding, not so much.  So to keep the number of weeding sessions per blooming season to a minimum, I use a trick I learned from my parents: pre-papering the garden before mulching.  After planting any new plants I want to add that season, I haul out my paper recycling box and lay a few sheets’ worth of paper over the dirt everywhere else in the bed.  I’m careful not to cover over any spaces that may have bulbs below that haven’t broken the surface yet, but I overlap it everywhere else to ensure that nothing can sneak up between the cracks.  Then I plop a generous layer of mulch over the paper.

The result: my plants thrive because they have the benefit of the mulch AND the paper holding the moisture into the soil.  (I’m sure the worms appreciate it too, but I haven’t asked them.)   The weeds, however, don’t return until the paper biodegrades.  Usually, I put down enough layers of paper (3-4 sheets thick) to hold me throughout the spring, summer and fall.  And then I re-paper and re-mulch again the following spring.

It takes a while longer to paper as you go, rather than just dumping the mulch and raking it over the garden.  But the time I save NOT having to weed (except occasionally around the edges… darned dandelions are so persistent!) makes it more than worth the up-front effort.

And if you use paper you’ve already set aside, it’s free!

Weekend Round Up: Porch Makeover Edition

Spring is certainly in the air, and with it, home improvement fever. There’s a lot going on around the DIY blogosphere.  Here’s the run-down:

Up first is Young House Love’s fabulous $500 porch makeover (pictured right). TYH was one of a few bloggers selected by Better Home and Gardens to compete for a $5000 prize using only $500 and 48 hours to remake their porch in the most creative way possible. We think they did a great job on a tight budget. Voting begins May 1, so make sure to stop back at their site to get instructions on how to cast your ballot around that date…

Todd at Home Construction Improvement gives us five power tools everyone should own. We like Todd’s list and tend to agree with it, but I personally would take a compressor/nailer kit over the #5 oribital sander.

CalFinder gives us 20 Ways to Avoid Pooling Water, one of which is to fix rain gutters. We’ve got a gutter that’s in desperate need of a TLC and I’m hoping to get to it Sunday. Thanks for the reminder, CF.

Green Gardenista gives us five great uses for Coffee Grounds… We’re avid coffee drinkers, and we’ve already started employing her tips (a post to follow on that from Kim this week!)

And finally, two things from us:

I started writing a home improvement column on Bargaineering, one of the more popular personal finance blogs. I’ll be writing articles at the intersection of home improvement and finance… I started off with Eight Frugal Ways to Get Tools. Jim has really put together a great site with about a half dozen authors. Definitely check it out.

Last but not least, don’t forget to enter our $200 Home Depot Tool Rental Giveaway. Two Hundred bucks could make a big dent in this year’s home improvement projects, so don’t miss your chance!

Discover Card 5% Cash Back for Home Improvement (April-June)

For those of you who use Discover Card, just a quick reminder that Discover offers 5% back on home improvement purchases from April – July.  To sign up, just login to your discover account, browse to the my rewards section, and follow the instructions.  Note that you must sign up before you make home improvement purchases as the 5% cashback is not retroactive to April 1.

If you don’t already have a Discover Card but are interested in the 5% back, you can signup for a Discover Card online at that link.  It’s quick, easy, and secure through Discover’s site.

Discover changes the 5% back offer each season.  Here’s the schedule:

• January – March: Airlines, Hotels, Car Rentals, Cruises
• April – June: Home Improvement, Fashion
• July – September: Gas, Hotels, Theme Parks
• October – December: Grocery Stores, Restaurants, Movies

Note that Discover limits the total amount of purchases for which you can get 5% cashback in each season, but also offers up to 1% back on all purchases regardless of season.  See the signup site for details.

Most 2009 & 2010 Energy Credits Don’t Apply to Rental Properties and Second Homes

Now that our renters have decided to move on to home ownership, we’re planning significant renovation on our sole rental property to get it ready for marketing in early Summer.  We’ve been hearing a lot from our friends who have taken advantage of the 2009 and 2010 energy tax credits we wrote about earlier this year.  And we were excited to take advantage of these credits in the installation of new windows on the townhome. Unfortunately, that’s not going to happen.  As it turns out, most of the energy credits for common remodeling items (like energy efficient windows, doors, insulation, etc.) only qualify for the credit if the property is your principal residence (as defined by the IRS).

What is a Principal Residence?

Our rental property isn’t our principal residence (we know this because we live just down the road), but we’re sure someone will ask about the rules on this. The IRS is very vague about how a principal residence (also called a main home) is defined, but it includes factors like where you live most of the time, where you bank, the address on your drivers license, and more. That article gives you some clues and is worth looking at if you’re struggling with the question.

Our take: most people know which home is their main home, but a select few might actually have some trouble figuring this out.  If you’re in a grey area, contact a tax advisor or accountant before getting started on the renovations.

What Credits Can’t You Take?

According to the Government’s EnergyStar site, If the home isn’t your principal residence, you can’t take the energy credits for any of the following improvements:

• Windows and Doors
• Insulation
• Roofs
• HVACs
• Non-solar Water Heaters
• Biomass Stoves
• Fuel cElls

What Credits CAN You Take?

Landlords and second home owners can claim a 30% tax credit with NO UPPER LIMIT on the following improvements:

• Geothermal Heat Pumps
• Solar Panels
• Solar Hot Water Heaters
• Small Wind Energy Systems

Not so great unless you’re really going to be making some changes, right?

Why Not Give Credits for Rental Properties and Second Homes?

Its not immediately clear why these home improvement tax credits aren’t available for second homes and rentals, especially if the goal is to reduce overall use and stop climate change.  Here’s our take:  for rentals, home improvements are already tax deductible (immediately for repairs, and over time through depreciation for capital improvements).

For landlords around in the 30% tax bracket, this equates to providing a “credit” for installation already.  For second homes, the logic is probably something like, “if you’re rich enough to own a second home, you don’t need the tax break.” Whether you agree with it or not, those are the breaks under this rule.

(Photo: OregonDOT)

Reader Question: 15 or 20 Amp Circuit for Over Range Microwaves?

Reader Question: Many over-range microwaves say they require a dedicated 20-amp branch circuit, but include a plug that can easily be plugged into a 15-amp receptacle. Is it safe to plug the microwave into a 15 amp circuit? — John

15-Amp vs. 20-Amp Receptacles

John, before we answer the question (which is a great one by the way), let’s review receptacle types. A standard 15-amp grounded receptacle is the one most of us are used to seeing throughout our house. It has two vertical slots–one slightly larger than the other–and a circular grounding slot at the bottom. A 20-amp receptacle, which is more commonly found in office buildings, looks just like the 15-amp version but has an extra horizontal slot, making the left slot look like a sideways T.  (pictures available here from wikipedia)

When the microwave says it requires a dedicated 20-amp branch circuit, you would expect it to have a plug that can only plug into a 20-amp receptacle — a plug with a horizontal tong to fit into the horizontal slot.

But it doesn’t.  Why?

15-Amp Receptacles on 20-Amp Branch Circuits

The National Electric Code (called the NEC) defines the receptacles that can be installed on various levels of branch circuits.  For 20-amp circuits (e.g., a circuit protected by a 20-amp breaker), the NEC allows both 15-amp and 20-amp receptacles to be installed on the same circuit.

Even though both receptacle types can be installed on a 20-amp circuit, the circuit wiring will differ. A 15-amp circuit is usually served by 14 gauge wire, while a 20-amp circuit must be served by12-guage wire.  The thicker gauge required by 20-amp circuits ensures the wires do not overheat under a 20-amp load.

Why (Some) Microwaves Require a 20-Amp Circuit

Microwaves require a 20-amp branch circuit due to constant load and spike issues.  Under strenuous use, a microwave could draw nearly the maximum 15 amperes of current regularly for hours.  Under this maximum load scenario, 14- gauge wiring could heat up beyond safe levels. Also, high power microwaves can temporarily spike over the 15-ampere limit.  If the circuit were governed by a 15-amp breaker, the spike would cause the breaker to trip.

Microwaves include the standard 15-amp plug because these are the plugs most often found in homes in the U.S.  If 20-amp receptacles were common on 20-amp branch circuits in modern homes, high power microwaves would likely sport 20-amp plugs.

How to Determine Whether a Circuit Is 15 or 20-amp

The easiest way to determine whether the circuit is a 15 or 20-amp circuit is to find the corresponding breaker or fuse in the breaker panel. Note, however, that it is possible that a prior homeowner or electrician made a mistake, so this isn’t 100% reliable.

What’s the Danger?

A microwave plugged into a 15-amp circuit could cause the wires in the wall to overheat and present a fire hazard.  More likely, however, the microwave will trip the 15-amp breaker and pose a regular nuissance.

Note that you should never just replace a 15-amp breaker with a 20-amp breaker.  This will present a fire hazard since the wiring is not suited for a 20-amp breaker.

What do you think? Have you installed a microwave with this requirement?  Did you run the separate 20-amp circuit?

(Appropos Photo: srbyug)

Loan To Value Ratios, Refinancing, and New Loans (Mortgage Basics)

Most of us who have owned our own home for a while have had plenty of exposure to mortgage loans. But every year there are millions of new entrants into the housing market who have little knowledge of the mechanics of mortgages and the vernacular employed.

So, I’ll be writing some posts on the basics of mortgages, with the intention of tying all these concepts together over the next 4-5 months into one giant index of mortgage information.  To be sure, this stuff exists (to some extent) on other places on the web.  But, I enjoy the topic, so your stuck with it.  Please weigh in with your own ideas… And dont’ worry, it won’t consume the whole blog (or even most of it)

To get us started, I’ll tackle a relatively simple concept: Loan to Value Ratio.  In future articles, we’ll discuss more complex issues like credit reports and scores, security instruments, reverse mortgages, closing costs, and more.  So, without further ado…

Loan to Value Ratio (LTV)

At its core, the Loan to Value  ratio is a simple math equation: the value of the first mortgage on a home divided by the total value of that home.  It is a measure of risk that lending institutions use to decide whether or not to provide a mortgage to a prospective borrower.

For example, if a home is appraised at $100,000, and the first mortgage on the property is $80,000, the LTV ratio is $80,000 / $100,000 = 80%.

Why the Loan to Value Ratio Matters

In a mortgage, the property is collateral for the loan.  If a borrower fails to make payments (called defaulting), the lender has the right–through a structured legal process–to take the home and sell it to recover their costs on the property.  LTV is a “backstop” ratio that ensures that the lender is fully covered in cases of default.  In other words, the lender has assurance they’ll be able to sell the property and recover their investment.

Requirements for Refinancing and New Loans

In the United States, the two largest mortgage loan buyers, Fannie Mae and Freddy Mac, will purchase conforming loans with a LTV ratio of up to 80%.  As a result, most lenders today require a first mortgage loan no higher than 80%.  For higher LTV ratios, the borrower can purchase private mortgage insurance (PMI), an insurance policy that pays the lender for losses in the event of a default.  So, why is 80% the standard LTV ratio for Freddy and Fannie?

The answer is, to a degree, a political one. 80% is what the Government requires Freddy and Fannie to require.  An 80% LTV ensures that at least 20% of a home’s value is reserved to account for the following items in the case of default:

• Decline in overall property value due to a housing slump.
• Past-due interest on the loan.
• Selling costs (including Realtor and transaction fees).
• Repairs on the property to bring it to code / make it sell-able.
• Back insurance / insurance during transfer.
• Back taxes / taxes during transfer.

What if You Don’t have 20% Down?

An alternative for high LTV situations is to take out a second loan or a home equity line of credit (a HELOC) to make up the difference between the 80% first mortgage amount and the remaining amount required to purchase the property.

From 2001 – 2006, second mortgages and HELOCs were an easy and inexpensive way to make up a deficit in down payment.

Recent LTV Requirements for New Mortgages

As the housing market has fallen over the last 3 years, mortgage lenders have placed increased emphasis on LTV. Today, obtaining a second loan or HELOC can be extremely difficult, with many lenders only loaning up to a total combined LTV of 85%.  (Meaning, that the second loan can be no more than 5% of the total value of the home).

There are still options for new homeowners, including FHA and VA loans that can sometimes provide 100% financing, as long as the borrower pays PMI and, in the case of the VA, meet certain qualifications.

Recent LTV-related Refinance Issues

The housing collapse has also put many existing homeowners in high LTV positions.  In the worst cases, people are underwater in their mortgages.  In essence, people in these situations can become trapped in their current mortgages.  New lenders may be unwilling to take on the risk of a high LTV property, even though interest rates may be much lower.

In a falling housing market, it is extremely important for homeowners to keep an eye on the value of their properties.  If your property falls below an 80% LTV situation, you should work hard to pay down the property to the 80% level in order to keep refinancing options available.

What do you think? Did I miss anything in the analysis?

(Photo: kansas_city_royalty)

U-Haul Box Prices vs. Craigslist: It’s a No-Brainer

There’s just no getting around it, cardboard moving boxes are absurdly expensive.  Don’t get me wrong, I’m sure there are market factors that drive the prices of plain old cardboard boxes… but I don’t understand them.  For goodness sake, it’s cardboard, right?  Isn’t this the stuff we mastered back in the 1930s?  How did it get so expensive?

Take a look at U-Haul’s Box Pricing… A large box: $3.00 each.  Extra Large: $3.75 each.  The ultimate moving kit (presumably a great deal) – a whopping $536.00!  All that for disposable boxes…

U-Haul’s Not the Only One

But U-Haul’s not the only one charging egregious amounts for boxes. UsedCardBoardBoxes.com sells used boxes for about the same price as U-Haul gets for new ones.  UCBB’s claim to fame is that they recycle the old boxes so they don’t end up in a land fill.  But, if you want them to come pick up used boxes from your new place, it’ll be an astronomical $150 to get them to come to your door.

There are other vendors too… Boxquest.com allows people to post about their used boxes so that others can purchase direct from them.  A quick look in our region revealed only vendors disguised as average consumers selling boxes from warehouses… I couldn’t find a single average Joe looking to get rid of boxes.

Craigslist Offers a Better Box Option

So then I looked on Craigslist.  In the last 8 days on Craiglist there are at least 5 different people who recently moved looking to sell their used boxes. The average price: about $0.50-$1.50/box.  Two of the listings offerred boxes 100% free if you would just come pick them up.

Bottom line: There’s no reason to buy retail moving boxes.

What do you think? What other places have you found cheap boxes?

(photo: ejhogbin)

Drain your Air Compressor for Proper Storage

Air compressors are integral to a lot of home projects. Most recently, I used one for laying hardwood flooring. Taking good care of your compressor means it will work consistently and last longer. There’s lots of preventive maintenance to keep your compressor in good shape but this post will focus on properly draining moisture from your air compressor.

Why Draining an Air Compressor is Important

Compressed air systems create condensation that accumulates in the tank. The amount of condensation depends on how long you’ve been running the compressor and the humidity of the air. This condensation often contains water, dirt, lubricating oil and other substances. If you don’t drain your tank, this accumulation will ultimately corrode (rust) the inside of your tank, weakening the tank walls until it ruptures. Be sure to drain your tank after every use.

How to Drain an Air Compressor

Properly draining your compressor is very simple. These steps are not meant to replace your owners manual.

Step 1: Turn off your air compressor and unplug it.

Step 2: Turn the regulator knob counterclockwise to set the outlet pressure to zero.

Step 3: Disconnect any air tools or accessories.

Step 4: Prop up one side of your compressor so that the drain valve is the lowest point. Setup some kind of drainage pan if you’re concerned about the surface underneath your compressor.

Step 5: Open the drain valve part way. Air and condensation will start shooting out. As the pressure drops, open the valve the rest of the way.

Step 6: After it’s finished, close the drain valve. Store your compressor in a clean and dry location.

Ultimate, a Drained Compressor Saves Cash

Don’t want to spend the time draining your compressor?  You’ll pay in the long run, as this can shorten the compressor’s life by half.  Take proper care of your compressor, and save your hard earned bucks for other reconditioned tool purchases.

What do you think? Did you know to drain your compressor every time? Be honest… do you skip this step?

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