Review: Apple Airport Express for Music Broadcast Over WiFi

If you haven’t already read our article on Apple’s latest set of gadgets that work together to broadcast music throughout your house, do that now. This review makes much more sense in that context.

One of the key components to Apple’s audio broadcast setup is the Airport Express, a simple device that plugs into the wall and boasts the following capabilities:

• Create a wireless network (it has an ethernet port).
• Extend an existing wireless network using a bridging capability.  This is nice if you want to make your wireless network work in a part of your house that has weak signal.
• Host a USB printer from the network (instead of connected directly to a computer).
• And our personal favorite (and the reason for the review): receive iTunes over your WiFi network using AirTunes, and output the signal to a 1/8″ headphone jack connected that will output both analog and fiber-optic digital.

We are currently using an Airport Express to receive broadcasted iTunes from Kim’s laptop to a receiver located in our master bedroom closet. The receiver powers Klipsch speakers on our deck. When I first heard about Apple’s capability, I was skeptical about the performance, particularly streaming music over WiFi. Here’s our experience with the device for those interested in giving it a try:

Apple Airport Express Review

Setup Review

Setting up the Airport Express should be pretty simple and straightforward. Unfortunately, we ran into a compatibility issue with our Verizon FIOS router and the default WEP encryption. We had to change our entire wireless setup to use WPA security.  After the switch, the router ran great. If you happen to find yourself in this situation, Apple’s support forums have a great article on Verizon’s Actiontec Router and the Airport Express.

Other than that hitch, the instructions Apple provided were very adequate. If you aren’t a techie, it might be useful to invite over that special someone in your life who can make gadgets dance.

Music Performance Review

We had three concerns going into the Airport Express purchase:

• The WiFi network wouldn’t keep up with the data rate required for streaming music.
• The iPhone Remote’s interaction with iTunes would interupt the music or make it skip.  This was happening on the laptop itself when the remote was in use.
• The quality of the sound would be degraded due to the number of “hops” in the system / bandwidth issues.

I’m happy to report that none of these fears came to fruition.  The Airport Express broadcasts music flawlessly from our iTunes setup.  There’s a minor 2-second delay that affects response times from the remote, but facilitates the streaming audio.

Printing, Creating and Extending a Wireless Network

We briefly used the airport express to create a wireless network.  It works well, but the broadcast range is shorter than our Actiontec Router. We didn’t try the extending a network feature or the printing capability, but would expect both to work well.

Where to Buy an Airport Express?

You can learn more about the Airport Express at Apple’s Airport Express Official Site.  If the device is right for you, you can save 5% off the retail price ($99) by picking up the airport express at Amazon.  Amazon ships the unit for free and you can avoid sales tax in some locations.

What do you think? Do you own the airport express? Add your own experiences in the comments…

Weed and Feed Review: Scotts Turfbuilder With PLUS 2 Weed Control

Early this Spring we started our lawn on the Scotts annual lawn care program, a system designed to make it easy for homeowners to get their lawns looking great over a 12 month period.  The program begins in the early Spring with application of a turf builder and crabgrass preventer, and proceeds throughout the year with products designed to kill weeds, promote root growth, and fill in bare spots.  About four weeks ago we applied the late Spring weed and feed product: Turfbuilder with PLUS 2 Weed Control.  The purpose: eliminate dandelions and other broad lead weeds and build strong, deep, thriving roots.

The Lawn Before a Weed and Feed Product

This is the part of the article where I show you what things looked like before we applied weed and feed. Unfortunately, due to operator error, I no longer have the picture.  So, you’ll have to generate your own mental picture of the lawn. The lawn was about 95% tall fescue, and about a 5% mix of dandelions, clover, and a minimal number of other broad leaf weeds.  The dandelions where tall and strong, with bright, yellow buds announcing their presence.  The clover was much more subtle, but had grown to at least a 2′ x 3′ patch in one area of the lawn.

Applying Scotts Turfbuilder With Plus 2 Weed Control

We applied Scotts Turfbuilder with Weed Control using a typical broadcast spreader, one of several types of spreaders that are suitable for spreading lawn chemicals. Since we used a broadcast spreader as opposed to a drop spreader, we only made one pass over each section of the lawn, with the goal of only a slight overlap on each pass.  This ensured the whole lawn was properly covered, but that no section was burned by application of too much fertiziler.  We also took care to avoid garden areas completely, as weed and feed products hold the potential to destroy broad leaf flowers too.

Scotts Turfbuilder Review

We’re very pleased with how the product has performed to date.  Here’s a picture of a typical dandelion about 4 days after the application of Scotts Turfbuilder Plus 2 Weed Control:

The first application has killed about 95% of all the broadleaf weeds in our yard within the first 7 days.  The only exception to this has been the clover, which took much longer to die off.  At four weeks, we’ve seen about 70% of the clover die off, and as the fescue builds deeper root structures and grows tall, the clover has had much less of an ability to spread.

In the latter part of our four week experiment, we had a series of days that alternated between rain and sun.  Over this period, we saw  the lawn take off. Here’s a shot during this period only seven days after the lawn had been mowed…

Pretty good looking right?  We think so, and so would recommend Scotts program to folks considering it for their own lawns.

Tips for Using Scotts Turfbuilder with Weed Control

• Follow the instructions exactly as they are listed on the bag.
• Do not overapply the chemicals.  The product can burn your lawn.
• Apply weed and feed a few days after mowing, and when the lawn is damp (either early morning, after rain, or after watering).
• Do not water the lawn within 48 hours of application.  Avoid spreading when rain is imminent.
• Take care to avoid spreading in garden and path areas.
• Apply when broad leaf weeds are growing (early application is a waste).
• Don’t walk on the lawn barefoot until the first good rain dissolves all chemicals.
• Aerate your lawn sometime during the season.  This promotes root growth and helps prevent thatch.

Thoughts on Professional Help

Spreading weed and feed is something you can easily do on your own, but if you’re considering professional help, Amy over at Green Gardenista offers some great advice on picking a lawn service that is a good place to start if you’re considering TruGreen or one of the other big guys.

What do you think? Have you used Scotts or another manufacturer’s weed and feed product? What were your results?

BEHR Premium Weatherproofing Sealer Better on Fences

Many of you read Fred’s review of BEHR’s Premium Deck and Fence Weatherproofer. Ultimately, he wasn’t so pleased with it. It’s already faded and looking a little dingy after just a few years. Another friend also used BEHR Premium Weatherproofer but on his fence. So far, it’s a totally different story.

Preparing the Fence

This fence was featured in one of our Before and After posts. The fence was about 20 years old and had taken on that grayish, dirty appearance. By using a pressure washer, my friend was able to remove the dirt, mold and years added by weather.

Be careful whenever you pressure wash. Make sure it’s not set too high or it will damage the wood. Generally, 1500 PSI is adequate for most wood surfaces. Try out the pressure washer in an inconspicuous area before you get started. Pressure wash as much as you can. Often tight corners won’t be accessible and you may need to do some hand sanding. BEHR also recommends several products to help get your fence ready. Read the label and make sure to follow manufacturers directions for each.

• BEHR premium stain & finish stripper # 64 to remove loose wood fibers.
• BEHR premium 2-in-1 wood prep # 63 to brighten the wood and clean away moderate stains.
• BEHR premium premium mold & mildew stain remover # 62 to clean up severe stains.

Applying BEHR Weatherproofer

Weatherproofer is best applied under these conditions (per BEHR’s website).

• Outside temperature is between 40°F and 90°F
• No rain is expected within 24 hours of the final coat
• Fence may be dry or damp but be sure to remove any excess water

Weatherproofing can be applied with a roller, pump sprayer, airless sprayer or a brush. In our experience, a brush works best. You get even coverage without any excess. Plus, you’re able to tackle any tough-to-reach areas. Apply the weatherproofer one board at a time to avoid any lap marks. BEHR recommends two coats for “optimal appearance and durability”. My friend only applied one coat.

BEHR Premium Weatherproofing Cost per Gallon

My friend’s fence doesn’t have too much surface area. He was able to seal his entire fence with one gallon (plus he only applied one coat). Big Orange sells this weatherproofer for $29.95 per gallon or $125 for a 5 gallon bucket ($25 per gallon). It’s not the cheapest option, but alternate sealers claim less durability.

BEHR Fence Weatherproofing One Year Later

My friend is still pleased with his fence even after more than a year later. The color (Redwood) became a little lighter over time, but the mildewcide seems to be working well and none of the grayish color has returned. I think the big difference is that fences don’t have the foot traffic that decks do. Decks have to withstand feet, toys, food and pooling water while fences don’t.

What do you think? How did you seal your fence? Any experience with BEHR premium weatherproofer?

FHA Loan Benefits and Disadvantages

When purchasing a home or refinancing, getting a free credit report and score aren’t the only things to consider.  Borrowers should understand the difference between an FHA loan and a Conventional loan. This post will focus on the details of FHA loans and the distinct benefits (and disadvantages) they afford borrowers.

Benefits of FHA Loans

Here are the reasons an FHA loan might be right for you.

• The biggest advantage of FHA loans is that they are guaranteed by the Federal Housing Administration. This backing significantly reduces the risk for lenders, and in turn, makes it easier for borrowers to qualify.
• FHA loans require less money up-front for closing costs and the down payment can even be gifted from family, non-profit, or a government agency.
• Conventional loans require private mortgage insurance (PMI) until you pay off approximately 80% of the loan. FHA loans have a similar insurance premium, however it’s cheaper than PMI. That means your monthly payments will be less.
• FHA loans are assumable. When you sell the property, the new owner doesn’t need to obtain a new loan, they simply take over your loan. This is a great benefit if your interest rate is lower than what is currently available.
• FHA loans are more accommodating concerning credit. You can still be denied if you have bad credit, but borrowers with no credit often qualify for FHA loans over Conventional loans.
• Refinancing an FHA loan is much easier. Refinancing an FHA to another FHA loan doesn’t require a home appraisal and doesn’t incur any out of pocket expenses. It’s all apart of the Streamline Refinance process.
• There are programs that allows homeowners to incorporate the cost of adding energy-efficient features into their home purchase or refinance.

Disadvantages of FHA Loans

There are a few down sides to FHA loans.

• FHA loans require an up front insurance premium of 1.5% of the mortgage amount. These costs are usually included into the loan and reduce the equity you’d otherwise gain from the down payment.
• There are limits to the maximum amount you’re allowed the borrow. The limits are dependent on where you live. Check the limits in your location.
• The mortgage insurance will typically last longer. You have to maintain the insurance until you’ve paid off 22% of the principal. This isn’t too different from Conventional loans, however FHA loans don’t incorporate any appreciation in the home’s value.

What do you think? What kind of loan do you have?
Image courtesy of WoodleyWonderWorks‘

Genie Excelerator DC Screw Drive Garage Door Opener Review

On Tuesday, we described the basic steps to install a garage door.

Here’s our take on the Genie Excelerator DC Screw Drive Garage Door Opener we installed in one half of our two-car garage.

Garage Door Opener Buying Criteria

Let’s start off with the basics.  Here’s what we were looking for in a garage door opener in the order of importance:

• Safety*
• Reliability (e.g., backed by a warranty)*
• Good reputation*
• Car remote & keyless entry pad*
• Light*
• DIY Installation*
• Quiet operation
• Fast up /down speed
• Low maintenace

Ultimately, the items marked with an asterisk were all must haves.  That said, we figured that many different garage door openers would meet these requirements, meaning that quiet operation, fast speed, and low maintenance would likely dictate our choice.

Why We Picked the Genie Excelerator

In a nutshell, it met all of our criteria and raised the bar by adding several others we hadn’t thought of.  Here’s the rundown of the features Genie boasts (in bold), and our experience with the product (the text that follows):

Infrared beam and variable open/close force prevent crushing children/pets. We tested out all of the Genie’s safety features and were very satisfied with their performance.  The variable open/close force setting is nice since the force required to open and close doors will be different in each installation.

Direct current (DC) motor is gentle on the door. The opener starts gently and then quickly ramps up to full speed.  On close, the door is gently set down on the garage slab.  We had to adjust the open and close markers several times to get this perfect.  A/C motors will not feature this variable drive speed, nor the different open and close speeds (see next bullet).

Excelerator technology boasts 2x door open speeds. Even we were surprised, but we ran a side-by-side comparison against our 1/2″ Craftsman chain drive system (which is essentially an older version of this model from Sears) and the Genie beats it by a factor of two!  Note that the 2x speed is only when opening the door.  Close speeds are slower, which is a nice safety feature.

Polymer rail liner reduces noise associated with screw drive system. So far, this has proven true.  The system is very quiet.  We don’t have the tool needed to measure decibels, but our guess is that it’s at least 10 db lower than the Craftsman chain drive.

Two light sockets offer more light in the garage. While true, there was one minor nit here:  the lights disproportionately light up one side of the garage.  The difference is subtle, and due to the fact that the light sockets are sideways.  We plugged in two 100W equivalent (38watt) CFLs and the light is more than enough.  Genie gets extra kudos for including a light button on the opener control independent of the raise/lower button so you can use the light without opening the door.

Easy Installation. Genie’s installation was relatively easy.  They include color-coded parts bags that eliminate the need to open all the parts at once.  Allocate 2-3 hours for this job.  If you’re installing two systems, the second can probably be accomplished in 1.5 hours.  Invite a friend.  This is a two-person installation.

Other features we liked:

• Two car remotes and a secure keypad for the front of the garage.
• Ability for the remotes and keypad to control more than one opener.
• Lifetime warranty on the motor; 5 years on parts.

Drawbacks of the Genie DC Screw Drive System

• Screw drive systems shouldn’t be installed in areas that see temperatures below -25 degrees F. We’re not in that climate here in central MD, but some northern states may see these extreme temperatures.
• Re-greasing the screw drive may be required each year. That said, folks we’ve talked to have avoided this for more than three years so far, and when required, greasing takes only ten minutes to perform.

Stay Tuned!

We’ve got a video in the works showing the Genie DC Screw Drive system in action. If you’re not already a subscriber, consider subscribing to receive updates by e-mail. Not only will you get great home improvement articles every weekday (including the Genie video), you’ll also be automatically entered in nearly every One Project Closer giveaway!

What do you think? Do you have experience with the Genie DC Screw Drive system or a comparable product? Let us know in the comments section.

Fix a Windshield Wiper Arm that Doesn’t Move

We’ve had a lot of rain recently. That’s a good thing as it pulls Maryland out of a short lived drought. However, it’s not such a great thing for my gimpy passenger side windshield wiper. For a little while now, the passenger side wiper wouldn’t always move, and when it did, not very far. This kind of problem can often happen in colder areas where the wiper blade freezes to the window and then the driver (me) tries to use them. I got some good advice on fixing the windshield wiper arm and here’s what I did.

Broken Windshield Wiper Arm

In reality there were a few problems. Like I said, the wiper arm only moved intermittently. It seemed to work best on the middle speed but even that was spotty.  Secondly, the wiper arm didn’t make a full motion. It had a short abbreviated stroke. Finally, the wiper arm would crash into the plastic guard on the down-stroke. The first two problems can occur because the nut securing the blade has come loose. The last problem happens when the blade position is misaligned.

How to Repair a Broken Windshield Arm

• Step 1: The wiper arm is connected with a nut behind a plastic cover. Remove the cover by hand. Be careful as the covers will break easily.
• Step 2: Remove the nut with a socket wrench.
• Step 3: To remove the wiper arm, put a little pressure on the base of the arm while pulling straight off the spindle. It may need a little jiggling to get started.

• Step 4: Inspect the connection between the spindle and wiper arm to see if it’s stripped. If so, you may need a professional to replace it.
• Step 5: From inside the car, turn on the wiper blades and let them complete a sweep. This step allows you to properly align the arm so it doesn’t crash into anything on the down-stroke.
• Step 6: I took some plumbers tape and wrapped it around the spindle. Ultimately, this is a temporary fix, but it should help make a tight connection between the arm and spindle.

• Step 7: Replace the wiper blade. Set it in the proper place on the windshield and press the arm onto the spindle.
• Step 8: Replace the nut. Tighten the nut, but not so tight the blade cannot move. Try it out before continuing.
• Step 9: Snap the plastic cover back into place.

What do you think? Ever fix a broken windshield wiper arm? Any tips to add?

How to Install a Garage Door Opener

Our two car garage has sported only one working door opener for the last two months.  Two weekends ago, we finally had had enough, and decided to spring for a new Genie screw drive system (review).   A big thank you goes out to Andy for giving me hand with the install in exchange for a cheap lunch.  You’ll need to invite a friend or enlist some unwitting relative’s help for this one, too.

Installing an Opener Is Relatively Simple and Saves Big

Installing a garage door opener may be a lot easier than you think. If your opener no longer opens, or if you’re stuck back in the 70s with a manual door, this article has the easy steps to add this luxury-turned-necessity to your home.

Plus, garage door opener installation can cost anywhere from $75 – $175. By doing it yourself, not only will you get the satisfaction and added value in your garage, you’ll have some extra cash towards your next big tool purchase.

Garage Door Opener Basics

A garage door opener is connected to the structure of the garage in two places: at the front of the garage (picture A) and in the middle or back of the garage where the motor unit is mounted to the ceiling (picture C). The opener connects to the top of the door, just below the top frame on the middle piece of vertical trim (picture B). Note that the opener is not connected to the top frame on the door, as this mounting location is weaker than the vertical member beneath it.  (note: vinyl doors may not suffer this weakness).

A garage door opener opens the door with the assistance of springs, and closes the door against the resistance of springs.  All openers use some type of slide mechanism that moves back and forth on the long shaft between the ceiling mount and the door header mount.

Required Installation Tools

Most garage door installations won’t require fancy tools.  Here’s the short list of tools we needed:

• Flat head and phillips head screwdrivers.
• Drill with wood drill bits (most likely 3/16″ – 3/8″ bits).
• Socket and wrench set.
• Wire strippers.

Garage Door Opener Installation Steps

Every garage door installation will be a little bit different depending on the manufacturer and the type of opener (screw drive, belt drive, and chain drive are three examples).  In general, here’s the nine steps that must be taken. For first time installers, plan about 3 hours to get through the installation.

1. Assemble the garage door opener. Our Genie screw drive system came with very detailed, easy-to-follow instructions.  Genie gets two thumbs up for color-coding the parts bags so that you only open the parts you need at each major assembly step.  This made the assembly considerably easier to manage.
2. Install the ceiling mount brackets. If you’re replacing an existing motor, the current mount will likely work unless there is visible evidence of damage.  Most garage door openers will come with the necessary ceiling mount components.  If your system doesn’t, it’s easy to make your own mounts using a piece of holed L channel steel that can be found at any big box home improvement store.  See the picture on the right for an up-close view of the mount.  (Note that eventually, the motor must be mounted in the exact middle of the door.  If you use a piece of holed L-channel steel, you’ll have plenty of flexibility in the mounting – just ensure each side of the channel is the same distance from the front of the garage).
3. Prepare the header mount and door mount. If you’re replacing an existing opener, examine the mounts used by the original door opener and determine whether they are compatible with the new hardware.  If they are, it may be better not to replace these components as you would need to drill a new set of holes for either mount.  Use good judgment on this step.  If it makes sense to install the new hardware, ensure that you are not jeopardizing the structure of the garage door.
4. Install safety beams. Every modern garage door system will come with an infrared safety beam system that is mounted six inches from the floor of the garage, directly behind the door.  When the beam is broken, the door will not close, ensuring the system doesn’t harm a child.  These systems come with a source and a sensor module.  If you’re working in a two car garage, ensure that the sources are mounted between the doors facing out so that they don’t interfere with the other opener.
5. Install opener switch. Most garage doors will come with at least one hard wired opener that is normally mounted by the door between the garage and the house.  Additional wireless systems (including car-based systems and keyless entry pads), can be “joined” to the opener by following the manufacturer’s instructions.
6. Mount the new garage door opener. In this step, you’ll mount the garage door opener to the ceiling and door header, and attach the pull bar to the mounting hardware on the door.
7. Set up and down limits. Depending on the type of system, this can be done by properly positioning the slider on the chain or belt, or in the case of screw drive systems, by installing magnetic up and down limiters on the screw drive rails.
8. Test the garage door. Test the door system to ensure the door opens and closes completely.  Most importantly, check the safety features of the door to ensure that it could not squash a child or pet, and that the door won’t close (and stops closing) if the safety beam is broken.  Modern garage door openers will include adjustable open force and close force settings.  These should each be set to the minimum force required to open and shut the door under normal circumstances.  The goal is for the door to sense objects in the way and to stop pushing.
9. Configure remote entry systems. These systems include remotes for cars, and in nicer systems, keyless entry pads for the exterior of the house.  In modern systems, remotes can be “joined” to the base system using a “learn” feature on the base station.

Garage Door Opener Installed!

That’s it.  Installing a garage door opener really is easy.  Have you tackled this project already? Leave a comment on this article and let us know how your installation went.  Got a question? Leave it here and we’ll do our best to help out.

How Much is a Garage Worth?

Remember that refinance we completed a little while back?  Well, the lender provided us the appraisal they used as a basis for issuing the loan.

There’s lots of great material inside an appraisal document that gives insight into how an appraiser (and presumably, a typical buyer) values a home.  Since we’ve been doing a lot of work on our garage recently, I thought I’d check out how our garage impacts the total value of our property.

Note that these values are only really valuable to us (unless, of course, you happen to live close to Baltimore County, MD).  To find out values in your area, you need to contact an appraiser and ask about average costs in your area.  They’ll likely tell you for free.

Here’s how things shaped up for us…

Garage Value from a Cost Basis

The appraiser used two methods to value the home: cost basis (the replacement cost of the home new, less depreciation), and comparative sales basis (price based on the sales of other homes in the community). Here’s the cost basis side first:

In our area, unfinished garage space costs about $20/sq. ft. to build new, according to the appraisal.  Our 528 sq. ft. garage yields us a total value of $10,560, or $5,255 per garage.  Depreciation on the entire house was taken at 20%, so that puts us at about $4200 per garage after depreciation.

Using this method, the key is to know about how much a builder would charge to add a garage to a home on a square foot basis, and how large the garage will be.

Garage Value from a Comparative Sales Basis

In the comparative sales section of the document, the appraiser uses an estimated value of $4000 / garage when adjusting the value of our home relative to other’s homes.

This tells us that our garages are about average size (since the comparative value basis is near our build cost basis), and that the average value differences in house values across our region, when adjusting for all other factors, yields about a $4000 per garage final difference.

Ultimately, comparative sales was the method of choice for valuing our home, as it gives the best indication of how recent buyers have behaved in our market, and is the best indicator for purchasers in the near term.

Should We Convert the Garage to Living Space?

To answer this question, the appraisal can really come in handy…

According to the appraisal, living space in our area goes for about $90 / sq. ft.  Given 20% depreciation, that’s about $72 / sq. ft — or $55 / sq. ft. more than the value of the garage.  At 525 sq. ft., it would seem like we stand to make $28,875.  We could probably finish the space nicely for well under $15,000 after windows, doors and electric, for a net increase of $14K in value.

Will we do it?  Probably not. First, most homes in our community have garages, so we think we’d be at much more of a disadvantage than the appraisal indicates.  Its one thing not to have a garage.  It’s quite another if you’re the only one in the neighborhood who doesn’t have one. Second, we really (really!) want to park the cars in the garage once we get the basement finished, so there’s no way we’re converting!

What do you think? Would you convert your garage to living space for a 14K value improvement?  Do you think a conversion would be worth it?

Self Leveler for Tile Over a Large Area

Last weekend we finished pouring the fourth and final quadrant of self leveling underlayment over the radiant heating wires in the basement gameroom.  The total floorspace in the area is about 1000 sq. ft.  This pour constituted the last 250 sq. ft., and the second largest pour of the four we’ve made.  When finished, we plan to install a ceramic or natural stone tile (e.g. slate) in the area.

For those of you considering pouring self leveling underlayment over large areas (75 sq. ft. or more), here’s an overview of the project and some tips to help you tackle this relatively easy-2-DIY job.

Why Large Areas Present a Challenge

• Most self-leveling underlayments are designed to dry quickly, especially the brands most commonly found in the big box home improvement stores.  This is by far the most difficult challenge to surmount.
• Larger areas make it more difficult to get to the center, or wall-bound sections of the pour after the pour is underway.  As you can see in the picture above, the studs on the back end of the basement are inaccessible during the pour.
• Despite the products’ names, most self-levelers are only partially self-leveling.  They are most effective when a minimum thickness is maintained across the whole plain of the surface (about 1/2″).  This problem is exacerbated over larger areas which tend to have more variations in surface height.  Since self-leveler is expensive, you want to avoid pouring any more than necessary.

How to Prepare for Pouring a Large Area

Purchase a Self Leveler with a longer drying time. We used Custom Building Product’s Levelquick ES (extended setting) for the job. Levelquik ES boasts a 15 minute free flow time with an additional 15 minutes of “work” time.  Note that Home Depot carries Levelquik RS (rapid setting), which only gives you 5 minutes of free flow and 5 minutes of work time — definitely not long enough for a large pour.  You’ll likely need to get this product from a distributor.

Invite Friends to Help with the Job. For 225 square feet, we recommend 5 people for those who haven’t done this job before.  With some practice, it can be done with 4, but no less.  For very large areas, we recommend breaking up the job into multiple pours over several days.

Plan out the Pour in Advance and Prep all Materials. The key to a successful pour over a large area is planning as much as possible before you start mixing the leveler.  Once mixing is underway, you have a finite amount of time to finish before part of the floor starts to dry.

Tools and Materials Needed

Besides the self leveler, you’ll need:

1. At least four 5-gallon buckets.  The job will be easier with more buckets, and since we had 9, we used all of them in our recent pour.
2. Two heavy duty drills and two heavy-duty 18″ drywall mixing blades.  Do not use cordless drills or smaller mixing blades. You run the risk of not getting the SLU mixed properly or burning out a drill.
3. A painter’s extension pole and a squeegee that mounts on the end.  Modify the squeegee by cutting out slots for spreading over the underlayment.

Prep Work At Least 24 Hours in Advance of the Pour

1. Ensure that the area to be poured has good, reasonably tight borders all the way around. You may need to lay temporary barriers for the pour, especially if you are breaking a very large room into smaller areas to make the pour easier.
2. Prime the slab for the self leveler. Most SLUs will come with their own instructions. Levelquik ES recommends using their Levelquik Primer.

Prep Work on the Day of the Pour

1. Fill each bucket with the amount of water specified for one bag of leveler. The easiest way to do this is to mark a bucket with the amount of water needed, and use that as your measuring device for the rest. If you’re working with a small number of buckets, find other containers that can be used to hold “preset” amounts of water.  As you empty SLU on to the floor, you’ll refill the bucket with the water from your preset containers.
2. Open all of the bags of self leveler prior to starting the pour.  This way, during the fast-paced action of the pour you won’t be struggling to open the bags.
3. Setup your drills and mixing blades and ensure they’re working properly and the cords do not obstruct the area to be poured.

Start Mixing, Pouring and Spreading

In this step, it can get a little chaotic.  The key is to ensure everyone is working together to get the floor poured.  Usually, there’s one person spreading, two mixing, and two people with two roles: pouring dry powder into buckets, and pouring mixed compound onto the floor for the spreader.

The spreader’s job is crucial to achieving level floors with self-leveling underlayments, since the name is somewhat misleading.

A Video to Help Out

The first video we made focuses on working with self-leveling underlayment.  Take a look at that for some encouragement that you definitely can do this job.

Deer Garden Deterrent Tip: Cayenne Pepper

Our neighborhood backs to a state park, which we LOVE almost all the time. However, when it comes to having some color out there in our gardens, the critters that reside IN that park give us quite a bit of trouble. Our biggest offenders: squirrels and deer, with the latter being the worst. One night of deer in my gardens, and they’ve done a devastating amount of damage. We’ve found they’re not above walking right up to our front door and eating out of our planters on the front step. Any day I do planting, I can count on seeing suspicious hoofprints all around the area the following morning.

So I’ve quickly learned to buy only those plants that deer “tend to avoid” (so labeled at the local big box). And I look for Maryland native plants, figuring anything that’s survived to become a native staple must have a decent recovery plan for being munched by these hungry beasts.

Repelling Deer with Pepper

But even with these concessions, we still have problems at lean times–times when the greenest things in the neighborhood are what’s growing in my beds. So this year, I’ve brought in the newest weapon of defense: cayenne pepper.

For the time being, I’m running out after every rain and sprinkling cayenne on all my baby plants. Liberally. So, yes, they and the surrounding mulch have an orange glow.

BUT… they haven’t been touched since I’ve started doing it. My long-term plan is to ease up on intensity down the road. I’m hoping the deer “learn” that it stinks to come sniffing around in my yard and that my plants don’t taste right. At the very least, they aren’t bringing their Verizon-network equivalent into our yard. The bleeding has stopped, which is good considering how much it costs to re-plant whole beds.

And all for $4 for a 14 oz. shaker of cayenne at Sams Club that I expect to last me through this year!

(photo: samsclub.com, the place where we buy McCormick’s Cayenne Pepper).

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