Repair Cracks in an Asphalt Driveway

Asphalt driveways are a great feature included in many homes today. But, just like everything else, they require regular maintenance. It’s important to find and repair cracks as soon as they appear. Fixing cracks ensures your driveway will keep it’s quality appearance and prevent larger problems in the future.

Cause of Driveway Cracks

Water is the most common cause of cracks in your driveway. Water can seep below the driveway surface and expand / contract with changing temperatures. Even moist soil can experience frost heaves resulting in significant damage. Additionally, your driveway is always exposed to the elements. Time will take its toll creating cracks and holes.

When to Fill Cracks

Asphalt driveways also expand and contract with changing temperatures. As the temperature gets colder, the asphalt contracts causing cracks to widen. This is the ideal time to address problem areas. Fill cracks in the early spring or late fall. Cracks filled in the heat of summer may result in gaps allowing water and debris to cause more problems.

Additionally, cracks should be patched while they are still small. This will prevent moisture entry and erosion of the sub-base and underlying ground from repeated freeze/thaw cycles.

How to Patch Cracks in an Asphalt Driveway

Clean the area: Begin by cleaning up the area. Sweep away as much dirt and debris as possible. A wire brush is very handy for this step. Remove any grass or weeds including the roots. Use a chisel to remove protruding chunks. Patching compound will adhere better to a smooth, clean surface. Finish up with a shop vac to further remove any dirt. I’ve also read about using compressed air or a garden hose to clean the crack. Whatever your preference, make sure the crack is completely clean and dry before starting the next step.

Fill with Asphalt Filler: Purchase a high quality asphalt filler that incorporates rubberized asphalt emulsion. Many come in caulk-like tubes but it’s also available in a standalone bottle. Take care to completely fill the crack. Use a trowel or putty knife to press the compound into all the nooks and crannies. Many manufacturers recommend that you slightly overfill the crack as the compound can shrink some while drying. Deep and wide cracks may require two applications.

Sealing the Patch: Allow the filler to completely dry. Finish the job by applying an asphalt sealer to create a waterproof barrier. Ideally, you’d seal the entire driveway for a nice uniform appearance. You can just seal the crack and surrounding area but it may result in a noticeably different color.

Maintaining is Cheaper than Repaving!

Our buddy Todd has written extensively about the cost of asphalt driveways.  These simple maintenance activities are far cheaper than repaving an entire driveway, and should be regularly followed to avoid unnecessary early repaving cost.

What do you think? Do you have any asphalt cracks that need fixing?
Image courtesy of Rutger Blom

Before and After: Stunning Black and White Bathroom by Kara @ Made 2 Create

Well, we’re a little late in running our second before and after article, which should have made it out last night.  Unfortunately, a series of events (including a hard drive crash) conspired against us this last week to delay the post.

… Perhaps you can think of the delay as a really long drumroll, because this week’s before and after from Kara @ Made 2 Create is absolutely amazing.  Take a look at her stunning bathroom makeover that turns a traditional mid-80s era bathroom into a black and white modern marvel.

Based on Kara’s submission, we’ll make a $35 donation to Habitat for Humanity in her honor.  Kara will receive a $25 gift card to either Lowes, Home Depot, or Amazon.  If she chooses Home Depot, she can add the gift card to one of our Home Depot Coupons for even bigger savings! Congrats, Kara!  Thanks for the submission!

There’s still plenty of time to enter our Before and After contest, just send your entries to beforeandafter@oneprojectcloser.com!

Black and White Bathroom Upgrade by Kara

My husband and I gutted everything and came up with a new layout.  I chose a sophisticated color palette of black, white, chrome, and slate blue.   I used brazilian black slate and white subway tiles to create a classy look.  2 shower heads and 2 sinks are sure to keep harmony between my husband and I while the stylish and functional floating shelves add to the spa like feel.   Lastly the glass shower screen allows this somewhat small bathroom to appear much bigger!

The Before Pictures…

The (Amazing!) After Pictures

Details, details. details!  I have to admit my husband is usually the one focused on fine tuning, I am more of a “big picture” kind of girl.  However, there are times when I see the difference the slightest change can make and I remember that truly GREAT design is in the details!

After (the After) Picture

Thanks for One Project Closer

Kara, this is a truly inspiring transformation.  We love the black and white modern touches, and the frosted glass really is the perfect finishing touch!  Very nice indeed…

Habitat for Humanity Quick Fact

We’re making a $35 donation to habitat in Kara’s honor… want to join us?  You can make your donation at Habitat’s online donation page.  Here’s this week’s quick fact about Habitat, from their site:

Women Build is Habitat’s volunteer program for women who want to learn construction skills and make a difference by building homes and communities.

Women Build projects are regularly held by Habitat affiliates across the United States, and by Habitat organizations around the world. Women at these builds have furthered Habitat’s home-building mission by helping to construct more than 1,500 houses.

For more information, see Habitat’s Women Build Home Page…

Enter Your Project!

We’re just getting warmed up in our Before and After challenge… Send your submissions to beforeandafter@oneprojectcloser.com in any format.  See our official Before and After page for details!

Review: Skil Cordless 18V Li-Ion Reciprocating Saw and Flashlight

Skil recently released their new line of cordless, 18V Li-Ion-powered tools.  Over the last two weeks, we reviewed their new drill/driver and the latest in their long line of SKILSAW circular saws.  Today we’ll take a look at the last two tools that come standard in their 4-tool kit: the Skil 18V reciprocating saw, and the Skil 18V flashlight.

Where to Buy Skil 18V Cordless Tools

If you’re in the market for a four tool combo kit, the SKIL set makes a compelling case to be your tool set of choice.  The SKIL combo kit costs only $244.00 for all four tools (drill driver, circular saw, reciprocating saw, flashlight), plus two Li-ion batteries, and a carrying case (not shown above). This is about $100 cheaper than most competitors’ offerings.

SKIL products are available at a variety of home improvement stores and sites and are being featured at Lowes.  Here’s the relevant links if you decide to buy online:

Skil 4-Piece Combo Kit

• SkillTools.com – > Skil 18V Li-Ion 4-Tool Combo Kit (official site)
• Lowes.com – > Skil 18V Li-Ion 4-Tool Combo Kit

Skil 18V Cordless Reciprocating Saw Review

Portability is still King

Just like its brethren in the 4-tool kit, the reciprocating saw really shines when you need to use it in a place where electricity is unavailable or would be hard to setup.  Need to quickly take down a 2″ branch on a tree, cut through a thick metal pipe, or cut a hole out of the drywall?  The Skil reciprocating saw makes easy work of all of these jobs. Of course, with convenience comes a price… If you’re going to take down a whole tree, you’ll have to recharge the batteries several times or get out a corded model.

Given the option, we’ve found that Skil’s cordless saw is lighter and easier to maneuver than our corded model, and so it has become our reciprocating saw of choice for all light to mid-duty jobs.

Adjustable Speed and Turbo Mode

Skil’s reciprocating saw features variable speed control, making it useful for cutting virtually every type of material.  Tuning the speed is easy with a lever that sits on the left side of the saw.

Good Grip Feel and Relatively Low Vibration

The saw features a combination rubber and platic grip at both the trigger and the opposite-hand stabilizer position.  The grip makes it easy to control while cutting.  As with every reciprocating saw we’ve tried, vibration is still an issue, but with adjustable speed and good grip, vibration impact is reasonably minimized.  (We noticed that it was much more controlled their our corded model).

Tool Free Blade Change & Two-blade Storage

The saw features a tool-free blade change that make changes very fast (think less than 10 seconds).  What’s nice about Skil’s version of this feature is that once secured, the blade stays put.  Up to two blades can be stored in an insert at the top of the handle.  This seemed like a trivial feature, until we realized how easy it makes transporting the saw… everything can be safely carried in just the tool itself.

The Verdict

We really like Skil’s offering in this competitive class.  They’ve created a great tool for light to medium duty work that’s tops in portability and convenience.

SKIL 18V Pivot-Head Flashlight Review

Rounding out Skil’s 4-tool kit is the 18V flashlight.  While we don’t think anyone buys a kit like this for the light, it is a nice addition if you don’t already have a high power flash light.  The light features a pivoting head that allows it to point straight or at 90 degrees.  It’s bright enough to be used as an everyday flashlight and met all of our standard household needs.

What do you think? Do you own the Skil cordless reciprocating saw?  Leave a comment and let us know about your experience.

Review: Kwikset Smartkey Knob and Deadbolt

Unless you’re a locksmith or a door installer, you probably don’t think much about new technologies in door locks. We certainly didn’t, until Kwikset gave us the opportunity to review their SmartKey Lock System, the latest in their SmartSeries Locks.

SmartKey System – Rekey Your Own Lock in 30 Seconds

The concept behind Kwikset’s SmartKey system is simple: you shouldn’t have to buy a new lock or pay a locksmith if you want to change a lock’s key.

This system is great for homeowners who want to identically key all their locks, or provide temporary access to contractors, family, or friends. Simply rekey the lock to a spare set of keys for a few days. Then, once access is no longer needed, rekey back to your primary set.  If keys are lost, there’s no worries, just rekey each lock to a new permanent key set.

For landlords, the SmartKey system is a huge money saver. Instead of paying for a new lock or locksmith between each tenant, you only need to buy a new set of keys.

How the SmartKey System Works

The Kwikset SmartKey Lock looks just like a traditional door lock, save for a very small slot just to the left of the key slot.  Just like regular locks, they are available in handlesets, levers, knobs, deadbolts, and a whole host of finishes and styles.

In terms of everyday use, the SmartKey system works just like a traditional lock system. The fancy bells and whistles come in when you need to rekey the lock. Kwikset says the lock can be rekeyed in 30 seconds. We were able to master the technique in under 10 seconds (yeah, we’re advanced…). It is really simple, and Kwikset provides a great easy-rekey animation on their site. Here’s the pictures from our installation test:

Steps to Rekey the Lock

1. Insert the original key.
2. Turn the key 90 degrees right.
3. Insert the Smart Key rekey tool into the small slot to enter learn mode.
4. Remove the original key.
5. Insert the new key.
6. Turn the new key left… and Voila! the lock is rekeyed.

How Well Does it Work?

Exceptionally well. We were skeptical when Kwikset first contacted us about this lock. Would rekeying really work? (it does) Would it be simple? (it is) Would new keys work as well as the original keys? (they do).

We tried three different sets of keys in these locks, including keys from Defiant brand locks. After each rekey operation, the new key (and copies of the new key) worked great. The old key instantly stopped working. Rekeying took less than 10 seconds each time, and is simple enough that anyone can perform it.

After just one use, we’re believers in the SmartKey system.  We’ll be buying Smart Series locks for all our future locking needs.

Full disclosure: We encountered one issue during installation: the knob stuck a bit when the screws were tightened on the inside of the knob.  We discovered this was because we hadn’t properly aligned the exterior and interior knobs on both sides of the door.  Once aligned properly, we were able to tighten the screws and the knobs moved freely and easily.  While this was probably our fault, a note in the installation instructions to be careful would have been helpful.

Additional Features of the SmartKey System

The SmartKey system features an ANSI Grade 1 Deadbolt, and is both pick and bump key resistant, a feature that we like since key bumping has become a very popular lock defeating technique.

For more information, check out Kwikset’s brochure on the Smartkey System.

Win a Kwikset SmartKey System!

Want to own your own SmartKey system for free?  Sign up for our Kwikset SmartKey Handleset Giveaway.

What do you think? Do you own the SmartKey system?  Are you looking for a new lock?  Leave your thoughts in the comments.

Before and After: Fireplace Facelift By Colleen

This is the first Before and After of 2009 and it’s brought to you by Colleen! Colleen and her girlfriend just refaced their living room fireplace. It was an amazing transformation.

As a result of Colleen’s article, OPC will make a $35.00 donation to Habitat for Humanity. Colleen also gets a $25 gift card to her choice of Lowes, Home Depot, or Amazon. Lastly, Colleen is entered in our end-of-summer contest for a $150 gift card to the home improvement store of her choice! We’ll be voting on a winner at the end of September.

Check out this great Before and After and be sure to leave a comment.

Fireplace Reface by Colleen

This past winter, my girlfriend, Wendy, and I refaced our livingroom fireplace using red oak, travertine tile and marble accent tiles.  In a few weekends the fireplace went from an ugly, dated red brick eyesore to a fabulous focal point.  While we had tackled various other home improvement projects in the past, neither of us had really tried something like this before.  Needless to say, it was a learning experience.  But we took our time and worked deliberately, and we’re absolutely thrilled with the results.  And the best part?  I got to add a jigsaw and a hammer drill to my tool collection!  Sweet!

Fireplace Before

The first thing we did was attach 2x4s to the existing brick to act as furring strips since the bricks were stepped out beneath the mantel.  Looking back, I’d say this was the worst part of the project.  I truly appreciate my tenant downstairs for tolerating the noise we made with the hammer drill that day.  Once the furring strips were installed, we used 3/4 plywood to rough in the apron, pilasters, and return, thus ending day one.

Because the mortar joints between the bricks were fairly deep, we used a thinset mortar to level the surface of the surround, and gave it about a week to cure before starting the tile installation.  During this week we must have went through a dozen different dry runs for the tile, trying different configurations before finally settling on a final design.  But all that preparation paid off when the tiles went up without a hitch.

Fireplace After

The final stage of the project was to apply a red oak 1/4 inch ply veneer to the plywood box we’d built earlier.  I was the most nervous about this part because of horror stories I’d read about sanding and staining plywood.  I had spent 2 months refinishing all of the woodwork in the livingroom and diningroom, and really wanted the fireplace to blend in the with the old woodwork.  No worries, though, in the end it matched perfectly.

All in all we learned a lot in the course of this project.  Lessons we’ll apply the next time, when we reface the downstairs fireplace. 

Thanks from OPC!

Colleen, thanks so much for your article. The fireplace transformation is amazing! This is a great way to kick-off our Before and After 2009 series.

Habitat Challenge 09

Any 2009 Habitat Challenge gift will go twice as far to help provide safe, decent and affordable housing throughout our global community! A group of anonymous donors has stepped forward with an extraordinary pledge to match every dollar you send to our 2009 Habitat Challenge – up to a total of $1,100,000. So please be generous today!

We hope you’ll consider taking on the Habitat Challenge 09. Make a donation that goes twice as far.

Submit Your Own Entry

This is just the beginning of our series, so there’s still time to finish projects and submit articles. Even if your article isn’t selected this week, it may appear later in the summer. We will run one article each week through September 20, 2009.

E-mail submissions in just about any format to oneprojectcloser@gmail.com. Best of luck with your projects!

What do you think? Let Colleen know what you think of this great project.

Close in a Carport | Convert a Carport to a Garage

Carport Question: We live in a part of the country where most single family homes and even many townhomes have garages. In an old section of town, there are some old ranchers that were built with carports. I’m thinking about buying one of these with a carport and converting it. Is it worth it to convert a carport? Is it hard to make the conversion?

Converting a Carport

Great question!  We too prefer garages over carports.  While carports keep rain and snow off most of your car, they fail to completely protect it from the elements.  Plus, you can’t safely store yard tools (and baby clothes) in a carport.  For that, you’ll want a garage.

It seems simple enough – to convert a carport to a full out garage, you only need to add walls and doors, right?  Well, basically yes.  But, as with many projects, the devil’s in the details.  Here’s a few things to consider before undertaking this project…

Was the Carport Permitted? Is it Structurally Sound?

The first thing you should do is have an inspector or structural engineer come out to the house and give you an opinion on the quality of the carport roof structure.  While you won’t be relying on the walls to hold up the roof, you’ll want to make sure the roof is in good shape (especially the bottom of the roof that will be inside your garage).

Check to make sure that unatttended leaks in the roof haven’t led to wood rot, etc.  When a leak occurs in a garage, it is usually quickly identified by an owner.  In a carport, leaks are often unnoticed or left unrepaired.

Next, check the grading and quality of the slab.  Does water pool anywhere?  Would walls around the perimeter create a water pooling situation? If the carport is at ground level, it may need to be raised to be converted into a garage.  In a carport, water can freely move from the front of the house to the rear (or vice-versa) right over the slab.   When converted to a garage, you’ll want to make sure water makes its way around the slab.

Will You Have Enough Space?

Many of the carports in our area are a little smaller than the typical garage.  Once you close in the carport, assuming you keep the same roof size, will you have enough space?  Remember, depending on shape, you may want to install sofit vents in the roof for ventilation, so the walls won’t be able to come right to the edge of the roof on the sides parallel to the peak (this depends on the shape of the roof).

Is Converting a Carport to a Garage Worth it?

While we think it is absolutely worth it, the reality is that it won’t add any additional appraised value to most homes.  Most appraisers will assume the same value for a carport and a garage, which will be based on square footage of the slab and roof area.

Is it Hard to Make the Conversion?

Assuming that everything checks out structurally, it isn’t that hard to make the conversion.  Here’s the steps:

• Obtain appropriate permits.
• Address any structural / roof / slab issues.
• Frame out walls and rough-in doors.
• Install Advantech sheathing or another material, siding, and fascia boards.
• Install electric (lighting and receptacles) (will require separate permits & inspection).
• Install garage door tracks, install garage door opener(s), and install door(s).
• Add insulation and drywall on the interior (optional).
• Get final inspections.

(Carport Photo Credit: Casey Serin)

Attic Fans | Install an Attic Ventilation Fan for Energy Savings

An attic fan is a fan that circulates air from the outside of the house through the attic of the house. The goal is to reduce the temperature of the attic, and therefore reduce the convective and radiant heat transferred to the top living floor of the house.  This, in turn, reduces the amount of energy that must be expended on cooling the home in the Summer.  (Note that there is no real benefit to attic fans in the Winter).

Attic Fans vs. Whole House Fans

As Todd notes in his article, an attic fan is different from a whole house fan.  A whole house fan is normally installed in the ceiling of the topmost floor of the house, between the topmost floor and the attic.  While an attic fan only circulates air in and out of the attic, a whole house fan pulls air through the house and out of the attic.  This essentially creates a draft throughout the house.  Air enters the house through open windows, wall cracks, outlets, and other places, and leaves the house through the attic fan which blows the air up and out.  A whole house fan creates an artificial chimney effect in the house that cools it down.

Whole house fans are great in climates where you don’t need to use air conditioning.  If you use air conditioning, a whole house fan will waste the energy by pumping the A/C out of the roof of the home.  Whole house fans and air conditioning should not be run together.

Why Attic Fans Work

In the Summertime, the attic can heat up to 40-60 degrees hotter than the ambient outside temperature.  In extremely hot climates, this means that an attic could reach 160 degrees F.  This heat is transferred to the house via radiation (heat energy transferred as electrmagnetic waves), and convection (heat energy transferred as the hot air contacts the insulation and other ceiling materials).

An attic fan can reduce the temperature of the attic by as much as 40 degrees F or more.  If an air conditioner is trying to keep the house at 75 degrees F, a reduction of 40 degrees in the attic may save as much as 30% off the energy required to cool a second floor, while requiring only a fraction of that energy to run itself.  Plus, it will keep the second floor feeling much cooler than may otherwise be possible.

Solar Attic Fans vs Electric Attic Fans

There are several varieties of attic fans including solar and electric varities.  As a general rule, solar fans operate at a lower wattage and thus can’t cool as much area.  Check the CFM and appropriate square footage rating on the fan.  If you already have electric in the attic, we recommend installing an electric fan.  It will run much faster, and its cheaper.  If you decide to go with a solar fan, make sure you will get sufficient air flow.  It may be a waste of your investment if you don’t.  Consider running electric if you don’t have it to avoid the solar option.

Attic Fans Extend Roof Shingle Life

Attic fans can also increase the life of the shingles on your roof by preventing cracking damage due to extreme heat and cold cycles.  By reducing the extreme temperatures, shingles can last up to 20% longer on roofs with attic fans.  Since a 20% longer life equates to a 20% cost savings on roof replacement, an attic fan pays for itself when considering only this facet alone.

Avoid Roof Leaks During Installation

You may want to have an attic fan professionally installed, especially if you aren’t comfortable working on the roof.  During a typical shingle replacement is the best time to have a unit installed, but they can be installed anytime.  Make sure that the shingles overlap the base of the fan and that appropriate flashing is installed to avoid roof leaks around the fan.  Roofing mastic can be applied around any edge gap.  The fan will come with detailed installation instructions.  If you aren’t comfortable working on a roof, you’ll definitely want to pay for installation.

Attic Fans vs. More Insulation

One alternative to an attic fan is to add additional insultation.  The advantage of insulation is that it works in both the Summer and Winter, whereas an attic fan only benefits the homeowner in the Summer.  Each installation is unique, and so determining whether a fan or insulation is the better route is not always easy.  That said, an attic fan probably won’t be nearly as expensive to gain a lot of performance in the Summer.  If you’re attempting to “go green”, we suggest over-insulating and adding the ventilation fan.

Attic Ventilation Fan Cost & Pricing

Attic fans can run anywhere from $100-$500 dollars depending on the model.  Decent models command between $150-300, and may run quieter and last longer than their less expensive counterparts.  Solar attic fans will be on the high end of the spectrum (another reason to avoid the solar option if possible).

Attic Fans Running All the Time / Won’t Come On

Most attic fans are controlled by a temperature regulator and turn on and off automatically.  It is possible for an attic fan temperature probe to go bad and need replacement.  You should watch your attic fan on very hot days and make sure it is turning on when the sun is hitting the roof, and turns off during the evening.

What do you think? Have you installed an attic fan?  Will you?

(Photo: MaryTClark)

Before and After 2009 Supporting Habitat (With Prizes!)

Last year we kicked off our first annual Before and After event, a Summer-long series of articles designed to showcase the work of our fellow bloggers (and readers), and to raise money and awareness for one of our favorite charities, Habitat for Humanity.*

With the official first day of Summer only seven days away, we’re a little late on the uptake getting the event coordinated and kicked-off for this year, but we’re sure it will still turn out a success!  Read on for how you can participate (… did we mention that this year there are prizes for each week’s winner… and a grand prize?)

*Please note that we are not affiliated with Habitat, but we believe in what Habitat does for communities across the United States and the world, and that’s why we continue to support them through this event.

How our Before and After Event Works

The event is pretty simple:  you send us before and after pictures and a story of a project you completed at your house.  While we prefer the project be a recent accomplishment, it doesn’t have to be.  The only rule: the project must be more than 75% do-it-yourself.  (So, if you remodeled a whole kitchen, but paid a tiler to do the backsplash, that’s still acceptable… but if you had the whole thing redone, that isn’t).  If you want to see some examples, check out this summary of last year’s winning entries.

Each week, we’ll select at least one winner and we’ll showcase their accomplishments beginning Saturday evening and leave it on the front page of our site until Monday morning.

A Donation In Your Honor, and Cool Prizes

If your Before and After is selected to run on our site, we’ll make a $35 donation to Habitat for Humanity in your honor, and you’ll get to choose one of the following prizes shipped right to your door:

• $25 Gift Card to Lowes
• $25 Gift Card to Home Depot
• $25 Gift Card to Amazon
• … other tool prizes as they become available throughout the Summer…

At the end of the Summer, we’ll open it up to community vote.  The grand prize winner will get $150 to the home improvement store of their choice!

Pretty cool huh?  We think so!  And here’s the best part for all of you reading this right now… We expect submissions to be light for the first few weeks as we get the word out.  So, submit your project early and it’ll be your name on the donation (and your gift card in the mail!)

How to Submit an Entry

Send an e-mail in any format to beforeandafter@oneprojectcloser.com.  Please attach the pictures individually to the e-mail so that it’s easier for us to incorporate them into the articles on the site.

When Does the Event Start & Finish?

An article will run each Sunday from June 21, 2009 - Sept. 20, 2009.  You can submit entries anytime!

What Else Can I Do to Help?

Before and After 2009 will only be successful if folks from the community participate. There are at least five ways you can get involved:

1. Submit an article. This event will be fun if lots of folks submit articles.
2. Write an article on your site telling your readers about the event.
3. Add a Before and After 2009 graphic to your web site and link back to this article.
4. Make a monetary or volunteer donation to Habitat for Humanity in your area.
5. Tell your friends about the event and the prize.

Our hope is that we will generate many submissions, inspire dozens of people to support Habitat along with us, and prepare to make even larger impacts in the future.

Before and After Graphics

Help us raise awareness for the event by adding a badge to your site for the Summer!

What do you think? Let us know what you think of the idea… Please feel free to help us make it better. Either leave a comment below, or e-mail us at oneprojectcloser@gmail.com!

Kobalt 10″ Sliding Compound Miter Saw Review

Updated 4/29/2011: You can find Kobalt products at your neighborhood Lowes, but before you head out, pick up a sweet Lowes Coupon. This coupon gives you an automatic 10% off any in-store purchase, and who doesn’t like to save money?

A miter saw is really a bread-and-butter tool for any professional wood worker or DIYer. It’s has a wide set of applications for many home improvement projects. So, it’s important that you choose a miter saw that is versatile, precise, and can handle any project you undertake.

Lowes produces its own line of tools called Kobalt. Kobalt brand features everything from tool storage and impact wrenches to ratchets and compressors. They were kind enough to let us try our hand with their 10″ sliding compound miter saw. Read on to learn about the features of this saw and how it stacks up.

Kobalt Miter Saw Review

Laser Guide
Lots of miter saws are including a laser guide to help users line up their cuts. The first thing I like about the Kobalt laser is it’s location. Some competitors place the laser guide on the end of the handle. These lasers are easily obstructed and more apt to being bumped and misaligned. Kobalt places its laser on the cutting head support, out of the way. Secondly, the laser doesn’t require batteries. Replacing batteries is cumbersome. Kobalt was smart to integrate the laser power supply with the saw. Click on the picture for a close-up view.

Cutting
This miter saw is very precise for both miter and bevel cuts. The saw blade cuts immediately to the right of the laser guide so you know exactly where to place your stock. The laser was accurate even when sliding the blade forward. Plus, this sliding miter saw is equipped with a 10″ blade. That means it can handle very large stock (3-5/8″ x 12″ @ 90° and 3-5/8″ x 8″ @ 45°).

Hold-Down Clamp and Extensions
I’ve seen both of these features on other miter saws, but never really tried them out. These are small bells and whistles that really help your work flow. The Hold-Down Clamp quickly locks your material in place and has four different locations. The extensions easily slide out for additional support.

Price
I know I’ve already mentioned the price, but it’s worth mentioning again. At $199, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better 10″, sliding miter saw. Most sliding miter saws are about double this price tag.

Additional Features

Here are some additional features and specifications.

• 15 amp motor
• 10″ blade, 4800RPM
• Telescoping supports on left and right sides
• 45° max bevel and 50° max miter
• Electric blade brake
• Positive miter and bevel stops at common angles
• Sliding rear fence
• Horizontal switch handle
• Bevel detent and cutting depth preset
• Sliding rear fence

Areas for Improvement

There are two improvements Kobalt could address. First, the dust collector doesn’t work well. I setup outside and brushed off a fair amount of sawdust after I was finished. In the future, I’ll connect my shop-vac in place of the dust bag. My second complaint is the location of the bevel locking handle. It’s mounted on the backside of the cutting head support, making it difficult to reach.

Response to Commenters

There are few commenters below sharing disappointments with this saw. I appreciate the many different opinions, but it’s worth stating that my Kobalt Miter saw is still working like a charm, a year and a half after I ran this review. I do believe you get what you pay for, but this saw has performed through an entire first floor hardwood installation (click here for the full Hardwood Flooring Installation Guide) and even simple projects like cutting baseboard. The laser is still true and I’m still happy with it.
These are the features I really liked about this saw.

Where to Buy the Kobalt Sliding Miter Saw

If you’re looking to purchase your first miter saw or even upgrade from a non-sliding version, the Kobalt Sliding Miter Saw seems like a reasonable choice to us. This saw includes all the important features of a mitre saw, but also sports a decent price at $199. (Sometimes $149 on sale).

Kobalt brand tools are available from Lowes.

What do you think? What’s your experience with this saw?

Plant New Grass in the Summer: Seed With Potting Soil

The best time for seeding your yard is very early spring or else mid-fall.  However, we are working on re-vitalizing our rental property this month, and it is neither of those times.  So I used a tip I’d heard to get our grass to grow even as the sun bakes the yard every day.

Pets are Hard on Grass

I mentioned in a prior post that our renters had pets and that one of the hard-hit areas was the back yard.  After 5 years of dog droppings, the lawn was full of bare patches, and the area closest to the patio was completely dead.  Knowing that the soil in these spots was probably saturated with urine even after I picked up the (Walmart shopping bag full of) poop, I decided not to try to get the new grass to grow in the existing soil.  Not at first anyway.

Mix Grass Seed and Potting Soil

I purchased a bag of seed and another larger one of potting soil and used a 5-gallon paint bucket and a trowel to mix the two together. (Potting soil has two benefits over topsoil, which is most commonly used: it contains fertilizer, and it tends to retain moisture a little better after watering. Both help the the new roots’ growth.)

Spread the Mix Over the Bare Spots

I mixed five trowel-scoops of seed into about 4 gallons’ worth of soil in my bucket, then spread the mix about 1/2 inch deep over every bald spot.  For anyone looking to replicate this in your yard, you can probably use less seed.  As I was mixing, I noticed that the neighborhood birds were starting to gather on the fenceline, so I over-indulged, figuring there’d be some left for my yard even after they were done picking away as was clearly their intention.

Water the Newly Seeded Areas

After spreading the mix, I returned every day to water the yard.  For the better part of the first week, I saw nothing.  Then, on day 7, very tiny grass “stubble” broke the surface.

Grass will Grow in 7 Days

In the second week, that grass has grown two inches!  So has all the old grass around it, so we’re going to need to mow very soon.  For THAT process, we’ll set the mower’s blade at its highest setting and then continue the daily watering for at least the first few days thereafter.  Then I’ll switch to less frequent watering until the grass seems to be sturdy.  The goal is to make it as easy as possible for the new root structures to grow down deeply enough to sustain the grass even through summer dry spells.

Final Thoughts

Aside from the hassle of driving over to water the grass every day, this was a pretty simple and inexpensive process.  So if you don’t mind the hose-vigilance (and you’re not living under a county water ban), seed those bare patches!  It’s great to see the change in a relatively short period of time! Click here to learn more about controlling weeds in your lawn and how to spread weed and feed.

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