How to Choose a New Electric Water Heater

Earlier this week we wrote about how to install a new water heater. To accomplish that job, the first thing you’ll need to do is pick out a new heater.  All electric water heaters are not created equal. Here’s some things to consider the next time you’re in the market:

Tankless vs. Traditional Water Heaters

A traditional tank-based water heater stores pre-heated water in a resevoir. When you turn on a hot water spigot, hot water flows out of the tank and cold water flows in. The tank slowly heats water up the new water to the desired temperature. The downside to tank-based systems is that there is a cost to keeping an inventory of hot water on hand. Even if you don’t use any hot water in a month, you’ll still be paying for the electricity to keep the water in the tank hot. Tankless water heaters heat water on demand… they don’t keep any reserve, and so you don’t pay for them while they aren’t in use… sounds great, but as usual, there are potential drawbacks:

• All tankless heaters have flow rate limits, which directly correlate to the power supplied to the heater… This means that you must make sure that you have sufficient amperage coming into the tankless heater, which is usually higher than the standard service to a tank-based model.
• When over flow-rate limits, some tankless heaters osscilate between hot and cold… this means that instead of getting warm water in your shower, it could be worse: you could have scalding water for 5 seconds, and freezing water for 5… back and forth…
• Tankless systems can be installed in parallel to achieve better results, but this requires purchasing two systems, and paying for additional electrical installation.

Large vs. Small Tank Systems

In our household, bigger is better in the water heater department. The larger the tank, the more hot water you’ll have available. That said, the bigger the heater, the more expensive to buy, and to run. Consider how much hot water you’ll actually need to meed your water demands. For a family of four, a 50 gallon tank is sufficient for most. If you’ve got a big family, consider an 80 gallon. Either way, make sure the tank will fit in the space you have available.

Materials – Heating Elements and Tank Walls

More expensive heaters will be constructed with stainless steel elements (instead of copper), which won’t corrode over time, and thus will last longer.  Expensive heaters are also built of thicker-grade steel, which reduces the liklihood of rust.

Green Energy Features

Some water heaters will have more sophisticated electronics that can help make your heater more efficient.  For instance, if you’re installing a tank-based model in a vacation home, you may be able to set the heater to a “vacation” setting, which will detect when the water isn’t used for a long time and will lower the average tank temperature until flow is detected again.

Energy Consumption – Check the Label!

Whether you choose traditional or tankless, do your research. In the U.S., all tankless and tank-based systems will have energy guide stickers to help you estimate the total power consumption of the water heater over a year’s period.

Alpha JackClamp Giveaway Winner

It’s time to declare the winner of our Alpha JackClamp Giveaway!

We switched things up for this giveaway, allowing only comments but letting everyone enter once per day. And a lot of people really took advantage. In the end, there is only one winner. We used random.org, and it chose Sue D! Sue left a total of 11 comments (one per day) and her diligence has paid off. Congratulations!

What the Winner Gets

Sue D. gets an awesome pair of JackClamps delivered right to her front door. These clamps are made from quality materials and are capable of handing lots of different jobs. They clamp, jack, spread, and even hoist! Combine two or more for an even longer reach. For more information, check out the full JackClamp Review.

For everyone else, these clamps are available at a variety of stores, and online. Amazon sells these clamps for $42.99 with free shipping! Here are the links:

• Alpha JackClamps (manufacturer)
• Alpha JackClamps (Amazon)

Entries Received

This short giveaway was comment entries only, but we allowed everyone to enter once a day. A lot of people left multiple comments to gain better odds resulting in 163 total entries.

Reminders

• Email us at oneprojectcloser@gmail.com if you have questions.
• Make sure you provide a legitimate email address as that’s how we’ll notify you when you win.

Kwikset and SKIL Giveaways

We still have our Kwikset Handleset Giveaway running through the end of the month. And next in the queue is a great SKIL giveaway. Stay tuned for your chance to win.

Fix Stuck Doors That Won’t Close or Open (A quick and dirty solution…)

As part of our recent townhome renovation, we removed all the doors throughout the house and painted them outside (thanks in large part to help from Andy, our handyman).  When we reinstalled the doors, many of them were sticking closed or wouldn’t easily shut.  The problem wasn’t a new one, since the doors stuck a little bit before.  But with the new coat of paint, now they really stuck, and we’re also hard to shut.

Rather than go through the hassle of removing the doors and reinstalling them (which would have been difficult and time consuming), we decided it best to sand the doors in place.  The doors stuck so badly, that we opted to use a hand held grinder to speed the process.

The steps we followed below work well if the door is sticking at points opposite the hinges or at the top of the door.  If the door is sticking on the hinge side, you may need to add very thin shims behind the hinges.  Sanding the hinge side of the door may also work as a solution.

Here’s the easy-to-DIY steps we took:

How to Sand Down Doors

Step 1: Ensure the door is properly installed.  Make sure all hinges are countersunk properly and installed in mortises. You shouldn’t try to sand the door until you’re sure the door is properly installed. You should also check to make sure the strike plate is aligned with the knob. Sanding the door won’t fix a misaligned door.

Step 2: Identify the area on the door that sticks. Mark the beginning and end stick points with a pencil. Sand (or grind) down the spot and feather edge the sanding into the other parts of the door. The key is to not oversand.

Step 3: Work around the door and find all the sticking locations.  Grind or sand down the spots until the door opens and closes easily.  Do not oversand.  Instead, continually try to open and close the door and sand only a little bit at a time.

Step 4: Finish sanding using a fine grit paper to smooth out the doors edges and feather the sanding into the remainder of the door.

Step 5: Repaint the sanded areas. Be careful to avoid drips which are likely to cause the door to stick.

Voila! Unstuck doors.

Thoughts on Sanding vs. Planing

We also own a handheld planer and considered using it as an alternative to grinding.  Either solution will work, and planing may give a more uniform look.  That said, grinding is very fast and a little easier to work in very tight areas.

What do you think? Do you have your own solution to unsticking doors?

Pressure Treated Wood / Lumber

Pressure treatment protects wood from moisture and decay. It’s a great choice for outdoor projects like decks but there are a few things to you should keep in mind. This post will discuss how pressure treated wood is created, what chemicals are involved, and a few helpful reminders.

What is Pressure Treated Wood

Pressure treated wood refers to dimensional lumber or plywood that has undergone chemical treatment to resist rot, insects, fungus and more. Pressure treated wood is very durable and has a much longer lifespan (20 years+) than untreated wood. This process makes it an ideal choice for ground-contact or high-moisture projects like decking.

The term, pressure treated, applies to all measures taken to ensure the long life of wood. The standardized process involves placing wood inside a large, airless tank. The tank is filled with the chemical preservative under high pressure forcing it deep into the wood core.

Chemicals Used for Pressure Treated Lumber

There’s a large variety of chemicals that can be used as wood preservative. Wikipedia has an extensive list, but basically there are three main types: water-borne, oil-borne, and creosote. Here’s a list of the most popular chemicals.

• Chromated copper arsenate (CCA) – CCA was a very common chemical to treat lumber; the copper acts as a fungicide, arsenate as an insecticide, and chromium to bind the ingredients to the wood. But in 2003, the EPA restricted its use due to concerns about the wide-spread use of arsenic, a known human carcinogen. It has not been shown that CCA poses an unreasonable risk but it’s better to err on the safe side.
• Alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) – ACQ is a popular, copper based alternative to CCA. It works in a similar fashion but without the arsenic and chromium.
• Ammoniacal copper zinc arsenate (ACZA) – ACZA is generally used for certain marine applications.
• Copper azone (CA) – CA is similar to ACQ but requires much less chemical to be effective. Wood treated with CA takes on a slightly greenish hue.

Guide for Using Pressure Treated Wood

Pressure treated wood is used for lots of projects like decks,  framing a basement, mailboxes, guardrails, picnic tables, docks, and utility poles. Regardless of what chemical is used, the wood is measured in pounds of preservative per cubic foot of wood. Be sure to select the right level of pressure treatment for your project.

• 0.25 lbs./ft³ for above ground usage
• 0.40 lbs./ft³ for wood that comes in contact with the ground
• 0.60 lbs./ft³ for permanent wood foundations
• 2.50 lbs./ft³ for wood in contact with salt water

Special Considerations for Pressure Treated Wood

Here are a couple helpful reminders when working with pressure treated wood.

• Pressure treated saw dust can irritate your eyes, nose and skin. Wear a gloves and a mask for protection. Wash thoroughly after working with pressure treated wood.
• Don’t burn pressure treated wood. The ash contains arsenic and is very toxic.
• Don’t put pressure treated wood in contact with food (i.e. cutting boards). There is some debate online about using pressure treated wood for vegetable gardens. It seems the leach-off is minimal but I still recommend against it.
• Use galvanized screws, nails, and brackets. Un-galvanized screws and nails corrode because of the chemicals in pressure treated wood.
• Wait before staining or weatherproofing. Pressure treated wood needs time to dry out. Manufacturers generally recommend waiting at least 6 months.

What do you think? Any tips for working with pressure treated wood?
Image courtesy of Miki James

How to Install an Electric Water Heater

Installing a new electric water heater (or replacing an old one) may seem like a task reserved for a seasoned plumber…

But for the motivated do-it-yourselfer, this project is actually relatively simple and can be accomplished in less than half a day with tools and materials available at the local big box. Not only will you feel great about doing it yourself, you’ll save about $150-200 on installation, which you can roll right into your next tool purchase!

If you’re about to tackle this project yourself, read on for the complete list of what you’ll need and the instructions to get it done.

(A quick disclaimer: we’re not professional plumbers. Use this advice at your own risk. Your jurisdiction may require a licensed plumber to perform this work. Check local regulations before starting the project. Follow all instructions with the new heater).

Tools & Materials Required to Replace a Water Heater

These tools are basically the same as those required for most copper plumbing jobs, including replacing a copper valve (which we wrote about last week).

Tools

• Propane torch with regulator & sparker
• Low profile 3/4-inch pipe cutter
• Fiberglass heat-stop pad (-not shown, but useful for blocking heat in tight spaces-)
• 3/4-inch pipe cleaner
• Abrasive plumber’s cloth

Materials

• New 3/4″ threaded, flexible water heater connectors (-shown in the pictures below-)
• Appropriate threaded-to-sweated connectors (3/4″ threaded to 3/4″ sleeve-size)
• Silver solder
• Plumber’s flux (& disposable brush)
• Teflon plumber’s tape.

Steps to Replace an Electric Water Heater

Step 1: Turn off the breaker or remove the fuse for the water heater.

Step 2: Disconnect the wiring from the water heater.  Usually, romex enters the heater and is concealed behind a plate. The picture below shows the plate removed.

Step 3: Close the valve close to the water heater on the cold line.  If there’s no valve or the valve is broken, you can turn off the main water to the house (either inside, or at the street, as a last resort).  You should also install a new valve on the cold line with the new heater.

Step 4: Drain the water heater.  You can connect a standard garden hose to most heaters and drain into a sump or outside.

Step 5: Unsolder or cut the nearest copper joints on the hot and cold pipes.  You can find instructions for soldering a copper pipe at that link. To unsolder, simply heat up the joint until the solder flexes, and then pull the pipes apart.  We prefer the low-profile cutter to cut away the pipes…

Step 6: Unsolder, cut, or unscrew the copper pipe from the overflow valve (pictured below)…

Step 7: At this step, the water heater should be completely disconnected from the existing plumbing and electrical infrastructure. Remove the old water heater.  Now it’s time to get ready for the new heater!

Step 8: Place the new heater in the old heater’s spot.  Make sure the hot and cold lines are aligned with the existing plumbing.

Step 9: Measure and cut new pipes to plumb the new heater in place.  Flexible hoses will give you some leeway here.  Make sure you consider the threads when measuring the length.  Dry fit all components first!.

Step 10: Solder all connections after successful dry fitting. Follow the instructions in these two articles for installing new copper plumbing (how to sweat solder copper pipes) (how to replace a copper pipe valve).

Here’s a shot of the copper pipes during soldering (you can see we decided to install a new ball valve joint on the cold water line to replace the old one).

Step 11: Connect the flexible pipes to the new copper and to the heater.  Notice that we used the Teflon Plumber’s Tape to make the final connections from the flexible hoses to the water heater and the pipes above.

Step 12: Reinstall the copper pipe on the pressure release valve.  If possible,  avoid soldering near the water heater.  If it is impossible to avoid close-proximity soldering, be sure to use a fireproof pad as a backstop for the flame.

Step 13: Connect the wiring the the heater according to the manufacturer’s instructions.  Some fancier heaters have settings that can be adjusted to achieve maximum energy savings and comfort for your home.

Step 14: Open the cold water valve (and all valves) and allow the tank to fill.  Check for leaks.

IMPORTANT! Make sure the tank is completely full before turning on the power. Starting the heater dry can seriously damage the heater and potentially render it unusable.

Step 15: Install pipe insulation on the hot water pipes close to the heater.  3/4″ pipe insulation usually ships with new water heaters, and can be purchased at the local home improvement store.

Step 16: Flip the breaker to begin heating water.  You’re done!

What do you think? Got a question, leave it in the comments below!

Before & After: Cape Cod Upstairs Bedroom Conversion

This Summer’s fifth Before and After is a real treat: a 1950s cape cod bedroom gets a much needed improvement from Michael Vigneau at Better DIY.  I grew up in a cape cod and much of my childhood was spent in a bedroom just like the one that Michael improves in this episode… I sure wish my bedroom had a cave!

For winning this week’s contest, Michael gets a $25 gift card to Home Depot, Lowes, or Amazon, and we’ll make a $35 donation to Habitat for Humanity in Michael’s honor.  Read below Michael’s submission for this week’s Habitat quick fact, and an opportunity to match our donation with your own.

Cape Cod Upstairs Bedroom Makeover by Michael

We recently remodeled many areas in our 1950s Cape.  When we bought the house, the structure was solid, but it was in desperate need of updating.  There was one owner who lived there for 50 years; so you can imagine the style that we saw (paneling, linoleum, lime green paint, etc..).  But it also had great features like hardwood floors throughout and plaster walls (great for durability, not for patching).  We have owned it about 2.5 years and have remodeled 90% of everything…

The Upstairs Bedroom

First off – We are still happy with this remodel after months of completion.  My daughter loves her new bedroom which is the greatest accomplishment.  People that look at it love how we used the otherwise wasted space behind the knee walls.  But we are now expecting our 2nd child in October – a boy.  My wife has already started talking about finishing the 2nd bedroom upstairs.  My back still hurts from working in the the cave and bed area

My daughter was turning 1 year old, and her downstairs room was getting a little crowded with all of her toys, so we decided to finally make the outdated spare bedroom into her living space.

Before:

Collar Ties:

Closet – New:

Chest of Drawers/Closet/Cave/Bed:

Electrical:

Window:

Floor:

We added 2 lights and a fan/light combo into the ceiling.  Since the fan is so close to the ceiling, it doesn’t provide much circulation.

The only part I didn’t do myself was tape, mud and sanding of the drywall.  I have done enough DIY projects to know that I hate sanding drywall.  That was about 5% of the whole project.  I did hang the drywall myself.

You can check out her blog at http://tmvigneau.blogspot.com which contains her daily blogs and pictures of projects that we have completed.
I started my own blog recently for the recent deck remodel that we finished.  Located at http://betterdiy.blogspot.com.  Contains much more detailed information about how I do my projects than just pictures.

Thanks from One Project Closer

Michael, thanks so much for sharing your amazing transformation, and helping us sponsor Habitat’s mission.  Your remodel is truly inspirational!

Habitat Quick Fact

Did you know that volunteering for Habitat is as simple as entering some information on their web site?  You can find your local Habitat chapter and get to work next weekend, or next month!  Check out Habitat’s Local Chapter Finder Tool to get started today.

We’re making a $35 donation to Habitat in Michael’s honor.  Want to match our donation?  Visit Habitat’s online donation page and make your contribution today!

Submit Your Project?

Are you proud of your latest home improvement?  Submit the before and after photos and a story to beforeandafter@oneprojectcloser.com.

Replacing a Toilet Flapper and Flushing Mechansim

My toilet was leaking a tiny amount of water from the tank into the bowl. No water was escaping the “toilet system” but I’d hear the tank quickly refill every 30 minutes or so. It was wasteful and the noise really started bothering me so I bumped this project to the top of my list.

What is a Toilet Flapper?

A toilet flapper is located on the bottom of the toilet tank. When you flush, the handle pulls a chain, which in turn pulls the flapper open. Water pours into the bowl, flushing everything away. The tank empties and the flapper closes. The tank refills and it’s ready for another go. The flapper on my toilet wasn’t creating a water-tight seal causing a small leak.

Purchasing Replacement Toilet Parts

Toilets don’t have very much to them. There’s a mechanism to fill the tank, the handle, the flushing mechanism and some nuts and bolts holding everything together. Whenever I have a problem, I swap out the defective part and pickup a new set of nuts / bolts. Here’s my thinking:

• Parts are cheap and available at most DIY stores. I’d rather replace a flushing mechanism than try and figure out why the flapper is not fully closing.
• Toilets require some work to take apart and reassemble. I feel that replacing parts means I’ll be doing it less often.
• Getting a new set of nuts and bolts means that I won’t have to work with the disgusting, older set and I can be more confident that they won’t leak.

Check how many bolts secure your tank in place. Some toilets have two, others have three. Many times you can purchase packages that include all the necessary washers, nuts, rubber washers, and bolts.

How to replace the Entire Flushing Mechanism

Step 1: I always start by cleaning the toilet. If I’m going to have my face that close to a toilet, it’s got to be clean. I also clean as I work. It helps ensure good connections and water-tight seals.

Step 2: Turn off the water. Remember, righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. Flush the toilet to remove the majority of the water in the tank. Scoop out the remaining with a plastic cup or use a sponge.
Step 3: Disconnect the water supply hose. Remove the nuts holding the tank to the rest of the toilet. Now you can lift the tank.
Step 4: You’ll see another set of washers and nuts on the underside of the tank. Also remove these along with the bolts inside the tank.
Step 5: Remove the black gasket from the underside of the tank. This will reveal a large plastic nut. Undo the nut and remove the flushing mechanism. Be sure to disconnect the refill tube. Now it’s time to start assembling the new parts in the opposite order.

Step 6: Start with the flushing mechanism. Make sure that the new plastic nut is tight. Add the new gasket after it’s in place.
Step 7: Insert the new bolts with the rubber washers threaded onto the bolts inside the tank. These prevent water from leaking out.
Step 8: Slide on the metal washers outside the tank and begin tightening the nuts. DON’T OVER-TIGHTEN the nuts, or you’ll end up with a cracked tank and a lot more work.
Step 9: Place the tank back onto the rest of the toilet and secure with another set of washers and nuts. Again, don’t over-tighten.
Step 10: Attach the flapper chain to the handle. Reattach the fill tube and the supply line.

What do you think? Any toilet tips to pass along?

Ryan Homes Shenandoah Colonial Floor Plan & Marketing Materials…

Are you ready for a blast from the past?  We recently came across the original (from1984!) marketing slick sheet for our Ryan-built colonial home dubbed The Shenandoah “A”… Take a look at what you could get back then for (a penned-in) $149,900:

Front

Back

The text on the second brochure is quite amusing:

The elegance of yesteryear is tastefully combined with modern spaciousness and luxury in this two story Colonial which features Western Reserve styling.

The Shenandoah offers a master suite and your choice of 3 or 4 additional bedrooms.

Downstairs you’ll find a powder room, with large living and dining rooms and a paneled family room.  Fireplaces are optional in family and living rooms.  And, there’s wall-to-wall carpet to enhance the luxurious atmosphere of this home.

The kitchen includes a breakfast room, a pantry and handsome custom cabinets.  In addition, there’s a laundry or mud room, a full basement–and options for a one- or two-car attached garage.  Ryan’s Standard Energy Package super-seals and insulates your home against the elements.*  And we conduct presettlement and six-month service inspections to assure complete satisfaction.

Good Stuff…

Some of the elegance of yesteryear included dark wood paneling and matching spindles between the rooms (both are now gone)… and isn’t it interesting that wall-to-wall carpeting added to the luxurious atmosphere?  Sounds like pretty good salesmanship to us

SKIL RAS900 Smart Design Router Table Review

On the heels of their recent lithium ion drill driver combo release, SKIL is back at it with two brand new offerings in the woodworking / capentry department: the RAS800 and RAS900 Smart Design Router Tables (official site).

SKIL let us test drive the nicer of the two tables, the RAS900.  After using the tool for one Sunday afternoon, we think their design is, indeed, smart. It’s so smart, in fact, that it made us feel a little more like professional carpenters even though we don’t do woodworking jobs on a regular basis.

Both of SKIL’s router tables were designed for the junior and mid-level woodworker–someone who wants the capabilities of a router table without the usual $300-500+ price tag.  As a bonus, for those of us without much tool storage space, both tables fold to less than 10 inches high and store neatly on a workbench or garage shelf.  Keep reading below for our full review.

Where to buy SKIL RAS800 and RAS900 Router Tables

If one of the SKIL Smart Design Router Tables turns out to be right for your garage or shop, you can pick up either model from Amazon.  Both tools qualify for free shipping and Amazon doesn’t charge sales tax in most places.  Here’s the links:

• SKIL RAS800 Router Table (less expensive)
• SKIL RAS900 Router Table (more features)

These tables are also available through the SKIL site and Lowes.

SKIL RAS900 Router Table Review

Getting started with SKIL’s RAS900 table was a pretty simple task.  Total setup time was about 30 minutes, and most of that time was spent understanding all of the components that ship with the table and how they work together to perform various routing tasks.  The first major step after unpacking: mount the router.

Mounting a router: To mount a router, the table features a quick clamp mount and mounting plate designed to be compatible with all major routers (we used a 1-3/4 HP fixed-base SKIL Router).  The picture sequence below shows the mounting plate on the router and the quick clamp bracket on the underside of the table.  Once you get the hang of router installation and removal, the task can be accomplished in under 10 seconds.  Installing and removing bits requires the router to be removed from the table due to the plastic and metal skirting, so the quick-change mechanism is much appreciated.

Adjusting Router Height – Once the router is in place, the height of the router bit is adjusted using the router itself (rather than the tabl).  The SKIL fixed-base router includes both a rough and fine adjustment mechanism to get the bit to the correct height.  Some more expensive tables include an automatic lift mechanism, which is a nice feature but costs hundreds more.

Performing a Channel Route – From opening the box to performing our first route took about 45 minutes.  We set up the table to cut a channel using a 1/4 inch straight flute routing bit.  The RAS900 includes vertical and horizontal guides that ensure the wood is held tightly in place.

For our first route, we held the board only vertically and had acceptable results. The 1/4″ channel was uniform throughout most of the board. That said, we saw sway of about 1/32″ in some places, and the edges were not smooth.  To gain better results, we could install the horizontal guides.  Had we been working a real project instead of a test, we certainly would have done this.  Here’s an up-close look at the results:

Trying Various Edge and Channel Routes Together – We swapped bits in and out and turned a 5 ft. piece of maple several times to see how complicated of a look we could create with a few simple edge and channel routes.  We were pleased with the results, which were very uniform.  Smoothness was not perfect; however, that has much to do with the bits we employed.

Making Simple Edge Molding: Finally, we decided to try our hand at putting a simple Ogee edge on a piece of 5 ft. stock.  The results were very good for the pretty simple route, resulting in a smooth, uniform cut.  Note that we had the bit lowered too far down into the table, so while the results were uniform, we effectively highlight the need to try a test board to confirm the router settings before routing your boards!

Performing More Complicated Routes: We’re planning to use the router table to make more complicated channels and routes, including building a coffee table and designing some custom molding using larger, fancier bits.  After test driving the RAS900, we’re confident it will be up to the task.

Storing the Router Table

Perhaps the smartest part of SKIL’s RAS900 Smart Design Router Table is how the system folds up for storage.  The router guides and accessories store in the leg-based compartments, and the guide rail stores underneath the folded legs.  This keeps everything in one neatly-organized place for your next job, while the entire folding frame fits on a cabinet shelf.  Take a look:

Overall Evaluation

We think the SKIL RAS900 makes a great addition to an amateur or occasional woodworker’s shop.  It offers a great combination of affordability and capability that is tough to beat in the router table market.

Other Features of the RAS900 We Didn’t Review:

• Dust Collection / Vacuum Hookup
• Integrated Power Strip (to control router and dust collection power from the table).
• Manufacturer’s Warranty
• Easy Setup Instructions

Want to Own One?

See our Where to Buy? Section Above!

What do you think? Do you own the RAS800 or 900?  Leave a comment below and let us know your experience!

Donate Books vs. Selling Books

I kept a lot of textbooks from college. I had these grand ideas that I’d actually use them again someday; however, I only ever picked them up to move them from one place to another. So I decided it was time to get rid of them, and what better way to clear out some books than to sell them. But it didn’t really work out how I planned.

The Problem with Selling Textbooks

There’s actually a few problems, and they all became pretty apparent after I sold my first textbook.

• New editions: My textbooks aren’t old but it seems like there’s a new edition every year. That makes my textbooks outdated.
• Lots of competition: If you look around online (like Amazon), you can find most textbooks pretty cheap. It makes me feel like a sucker having bought from the university bookstore. The fierce competition means I have to sell my books for next-to-nothing.
• Shipping: After all is said and done, I still have to pay for shipping. Textbooks can be heavy. That means spending a few dollars to get the book to the buyer, and that much less profit.

Where to Donate Books

There are several resources for donating books. Here’s a short list, but feel free to add your own.

• Goodwill – They don’t explicitly list textbooks on their site, but the friendly guy at our local store was more than willing.
• Books Through Bars – BTB provides books for prisoners.
• Books For Africa – BFA has been doing what their name says since 1988.
• Local library – Check with your local library. I’ve heard they even accept textbooks.

For other items, Kim wrote a great post about charities that’ll even pickup your donations.

Aside from helping out a worthy charity, donations are a tax write-off. Kim also wrote a great post about documenting your tax deductions.

What do you think? What happens to your old textbooks
Image courtesy of Lin Pernille Photography

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