Review: Price Pfister Faucet

Price Pfister has been making stylish, dependable faucets since 1910. They offer affordable products that stand up to everyday use and they provide a quality guarantee to back it up. Price Pfister was kind enough to send us their Hanover Kitchen Faucet. It’s available in several configurations and styles. My experience is with the stainless steel, two-hole configuration. Read on to learn more about this faucet and where it can be purchased.

Price Pfister Hanover Faucet Review

Faucet features
The first thing that impressed me about this faucet are the features. Today’s kitchen faucets can have lots of different features, but here are a few I consider essential.

• Pull-Down spray – This basically integrates the side sprayer into the faucet itself. It makes it possible to easily direct the flow of water, and maneuver your faucet as needed. This faucet has a generous hose length allowing you to reach well beyond the sink.
• Spray selector – Modern faucets allow you to choose between a sprayer and an aerated stream. This enables you to wash those fresh tomatoes with a gentler aerated stream and blast away baked-on lasagna, all with the touch of a button.
• Water flow control – While I don’t consider this a must-have feature, it’s still very nice. The spray head has a slider that allows you to control the flow of water. You can quickly go from a trickle to a full stream. Plus, this feature saves water because you’ll only use as much as you need.

Faucet valve
The type of valve is an important consideration when choosing a kitchen faucet. A quality valve will ensure your faucet functions properly for a long time. There are four major valve types and the best two are ceramic disk and cartridge. Both of these valve types are very reliable, and the Hanover faucet features a cartridge valve. If something does go awry, Price Pfister made it easy to replace.

Assembly
You don’t need to be a professional plumber to install this faucet. Assembly is very straight-forward; the directions include great diagrams, supply lines are color coded, and Price Pfister incorporates Quick Connectors for an easy install.

Styling
I mentioned earlier that this faucet is available in several different configurations and styles. I’m a big fan of stainless steel but it’s also available in Tuscan Bronze. Either way, this faucet has a tall body making it easy to fit pots, pans, and babies under. The controls are different but easy to learn. Rotating the handle out (away from the faucet body) turns on the water. The front is cold water and the back is hot.

What do you think? What’s your experience with this faucet?

Deck Design That Integrates Natural Surroundings

We’re huge fans of deck designs that integrate with their natural surroundings.  We’ve all seen pictures of decks built around trees (if you haven’t click there for an ok example).  This deck, built off the back of a cabin in the woods sports a bridge to a nearby cluster of rocks that provides a fantastic overlook for deer spotting.  In this area, the deer are so tame that the young will come within 10 yards of people they’ve never met before… And the owner’s probably new it.

While the deck is only about five feet off the ground, the bridge to the rock cluster really integrates the space better than steps down and up would have.  This is a little more easily seen from this picture of the area at a higher angle.

The bridge makes this sitting lookout easily accessible, and a great spot to enjoy some wine and cheese watching the deer walk by…

And, as chance would have it, a mother and  a few young fawns were available for photograph.  We didn’t have a telephoto lens, so you’ll have to be satisfied with this (slightly blurry) digitally-zoomed pic of this 4-5 mo. old.

What do you think? Do you have a great shot of a home integrating natural surroundings?  Send us a picture so we can highlight it: pictures@oneprojectcloser.com.

Three Wood Fences: Partial Privacy, Full Privacy, and Split-Rail

Good fences make good neighbors… isn’t that what they say?  Well, we’ve found that in our suburban neighborhood, we actually prefer open yards… It makes us all feel like we have a little more property.

Even though we don’t prefer them, fences have their place… They are a very functional design element (great for marking out a property, keeping animals penned, providing visual and audible privacy, and detering pass-through foot traffic).  And, they add a little character and charm.  A fence provides visual queues that accent your home’s design, and that makes them very appealing in some landscape designs.

Which Wood Fence for Your Design?

Here’s an overview of three popular wood fence options, and how they can work into your home’s design.

Split-Rail Fences

Our favorite wood fence style is the split-rail.  Formed by upright posts and two or three cross members, the split-rail fence screams western-style ranch.  These fences have been used by livestock farmers for years to demarcate land and keep animals from wandering onto adjacent properties.

Split rail fences can be found in rough-sawn and finished looks.  Rough-sawn versions are made of rustic posts and cross-members.  The cross members are usually three-sided with ends that reduce into small rectangles that fits into slots in the posts.  Finished-look split rail fences usually have perfectly square posts with finished 2×6 cross members that also fit into slots in the posts.

Advantages: Makes the most fence out of a small amount of wood.  Since split rail posts and cross members are rough cut, they are one of the least expenses form of wood fences.  They are transparent, and so can retain an “open feel” while still separating spaces.

Disadvantages: Makes your property look like it should reside in the midwest.  No privacy.  Requires chicken wire addition to pen in small animals.

Partial Privacy Fences

Partial Privacy fences come in multiple forms.  This one, installed in our townhome, blocks out direct views but still allow people to see into the yard at an angle. Wood is attached on both sides of the support members. This style is nice because it only partially blocks the wind, while providing a decent amount of privacy.

Most traditional privacy fences are really partial privacy fences.  This is because pressure treated woods shrink over time, especially in less humid months.  Thus, fences with boards touching end-to-end eventually develop gaps.  This is a good example of a relatively new fence that will likely develop some gaps over time:

Disadvantages: Medium-high cost; not total privacy.  Makes your neighbors feel unwanted.

Full Privacy Fences

Full privacy fences, like this board-over-board version are fantastic for blocking just about everything.  Unlike fences with boards placed end-to-end, a full board-over-board privacy fence virtually eliminates light and wind.  This type of fence is great for making your little patch of land feel like a complete secluded oasis.

Advantages: Total privacy.  Great for keeping animals penned.  Enables skinny dipping.

Disadvantages: Highest cost; Makes your neighbors wonder what you’re hiding.

What do you think? Do you have a fence on your property?  Are you building one soon?  Which will you choose?

(photo credits: split rail by Sir Home A Lot; split rail fence by glen edelson; partial privacy by Josh @ Camera Soup; privacy fence by Number Six (Bill Lap);

World Habitat Day | October 5, 2009

The United Nations has designated the first Monday of each October as World Habitat Day.

World Habitat Day serves as an important reminder that everyone must unite to ensure that everyone has a safe, decent place to call home. This year on Oct. 5 in Washington, D.C. and around the world, please join Habitat for Humanity in support of this global observance as we come together and declare that the lack of decent, affordable housing is unacceptable.

Did you know?

• According to the United Nations, more than 100 million people in the world today are homeless.
• By the year 2030, an additional 3 billion people, about 40 percent of the world’s population, will need access to housing. (UN-HABITAT: 2005)
• One out of every three city dwellers lives in a slum - lack of water, lack of sanitation, overcrowding, non-durable structures and insecure tenure. (UN-HABITAT: 2006)
• Housing formation generates non-housing related expenditures that help drive the economy. (Kissick, et al: 2006)

World Habitat Day 2008

Here are some of the successes from World Habitat Day, 2008.

• Affiliates across the United States sponsored special wall-raisings; appeared on radio, TV and public education programs; hosted volunteer appreciation and recruitment events; issued World Habitat Day proclamations; and served potluck dinners and pancake breakfasts, among many other activities.
• Habitat’s Europe/Central Asia area office organized, planned and hosted an intensive social housing conference focused on the global state of human habitat. Sixty academics, NGO leaders and government officials took part.M/li>
• Habitat for Humanity South Korea hosted a two-day event that included a disaster simulation for 450 participants and a Euro-Asian Philharmonic Orchestra Concert attended by 3,000 people.

How You Can Help

Take time to consider how you can help make this years World Habitat Day a sucess.

ADVOCATE for decent housing for all by submitting a photo of yourself holding a sign that says “It all starts at home” and submit it to Habitat’s photo petition on Flickr.com. Habitat’s goal is to collect a minimum of 500 photos to deliver to the White House. Submit your photo by Friday, September 25, 2009.

EDUCATE your community with Habitat for Humanity’s World Habitat Day handbook to learn more about the importance of secure tenure and neighborhood revitalization.  Link to Habitat for Humanity’s World Habitat Day 2009 resources page on your social media pages, personal web site or blog to spread the word and raise awareness.

DONATE to be a part of making the world a better place and support Habitat’s efforts. You’re donation helps families to break the cycle of poverty and build long-term financial security.  Donate online today!

What do you think? Will you help spread the word?

Simple Benches Built into a Deck Railing

One way to maximize the available seating space on your deck is to build in perimeter benches connected to the deck’s railings.  These simple benches add dozens of seats and are especially useful for parties and events where traditional table seating is limited.  Also, since the benches don’t have any defined seats, people–especially kids–can squish up close together, making the most of limited space on a deck.

Building in deck benches is relatively simple, requiring only a few cuts.  This entire project can be completed in one afternoon, and can be installed on deck railings both inside and outside of the rim joist of the deck.  Take a look at this final picture andwe’ll dissect the components:

How to Build Deck Railing Benches

There are a lot of ways to build these benches, including multiple configurations for the structure and surfaces.  In all designs, the key is to build one set of supports, and then duplicate those supports down the length of the rail.  The first set of supports can be challenging to get exactly right; however, once these are built, you can make copies of the support structure and place them every three feet.  Then, fixing the surface to the supports, and the supports to the deck structure is a relatively easy project.

Building the Bench Support Structure

Step 1: Build the 2×4 back support.  The exact length of the 2×4 will be dictated by the height between the height of the bottom of the railing.  In our case, this is about 34.5 inches.   The 2×4 requires three cuts: One at the bottom, one at the top, and one on the back.  Note that the top and bottom cuts are parallel.  The goal is to place the bottom of the board about 12″ away from the back of the top.  Once you get the top and bottom cuts, you can cut a small 90 degree cut into the top to allow the bench to position against the railing.

Step 2: Build the bench support posts.  A plain 2×6 sits towards the front of the bench, and a 2×6 (or 2×8, if necessary) is cut to fit between the back 2×4 and the front 2×6.  The front 2×6 should be 16.5 inches long, so that when 2-by lumber is fastened to the top of it, the seat sits 18″ off the ground.

Step 4: Assembly the support structures together.  You have a few options here.  One of our favorite ways to join wood is using a kreg jig with wood glue between the joints.  Make sure to use galvanized kreg screws.  Alternatively, you can run a 2×4 perpendicular to the 2x6s and the back support, and bolt through all the pieces to create a tight structure.  In our picture, the boards are glued and toe-nailed together.

Step 4: Duplicate the support structure every 3 feet for the length of the bench.

Add the Surface Structure

Step 5: Screw the 5/4 decking boards, 2×6, and 2×8 to the surface of the support structures, and position the bench in place.

Step 6: Toe nail the bench to the surface of the deck.  Ensure that the back of the bench is snug underneath the railing.  (Step 7 is fastening the back of the bench to the rail).

Step 7: Toe nail the bench supports to the railng.

The Finished Railing Project

You’re finished.  Remember, these types of deck benches are actually unsafe for children unless you build a lattice or other structure to raise the rail of the deck.  If you decide to build these benches, consider raising the railing height at least 36 inches over the height of the seat.

What do you think? Have you built your own benches?  Got pictures?  Drop us a line at pictures@oneprojectcloser.com and let us know!

Four Lakehouse Design Homes from the Pocono Mountains

Back in August, Kim, the boys and I took a trip up to the Pocono Mountains in Pennsylvania, to a little resort town called Split Rock.  Most of the community was built in the late 1960s… It’s named for a giant split rock geological feature at the top of a hillside near the edge of the lake.

The community association mandates all natural materials in construction, so the homes are all an amalgum of wood, stone, and other features that blend well into the heavily wooded surroundings. We thought you might enjoy some pictures of the houses we saw and liked on the trip…

Number 1: This gem has lakefront access and was the best looking of all the properties we passed.  We particularly like the arched supports covering the windows and the smartly-designed catilevered decks off the second floor bedrooms, a feature we wouldn’t mind having in a house one day.

This house doesn’t end with just the house, tho.  Check out this eating area just in front of the house, beyond the roadway entrance.  Eating on this secluded patio is definitely a dream!

Number 2: Next up is this rancher that was secluded up in the woods, about 1/4 mile from the lakefront.  This house is huge (we’re guessing 5000 square feet of finished space), and blends with the surroundings.  We particularly liked that the community preserves the woods around the trees, only allowing enough to be cut to erect the actual building.

Number 3: Coming around one of the corners is this vacation-landscaped dream (look Ma, no grass!)  The deck sprawls across the whole front of the house and the windows stretch up to the peak (a common design in lake front communities these days.)  Underneath the decks are a front-of-the-house stone patio that offers great shade.

Number 4: Finally, along the same theme as the prior, this house offers the whole house deck.  Unlike the prior, though, this version features a stone foundation wall holding up the left half of the deck.  We like the feature and think it adds a little flare to the design.

Pretty cool huh?  We hope to one day build a lake or beach house, and we’ll certainly look to existing architecture for some queues for our own resort retreat!

Before & After: Kitchen Island Makeover by Sarah @ Thrifty Decor Chick

It’s with some sadness that I announce our last Before and After of 2009. But enough with the frowning- today’s inspiration comes from Sarah @ Thrifty Decor Chick. Her blog is dedicated to showing folks how to make their home more beautiful without spending a lot of money. Sarah took an ordinary kitchen island and created something spectacular, all at a great price.

For winning, Sarah gets a $25 gift card to Lowes, Home Depot, or Amazon. And, we’ll make a $35 donation to Habitat for Humanity in her honor. She is also the last entry in our end-of-Summer contest for a $150 gift card (stay tuned for details).

Kitchen Island Makeover by Sarah

Excerpts from original post

The before…

I really love islands that look like furniture, so I thought I would change it up and decided to add molding:

I added faux panels to the sides and back and painted the whole thing out in black. This began my deep-seeded hatred of laminate. Laminate and I are not bffs. I actually had thought of doing beadboard, but I think it was impatience that got the best of me at the time. But as you know, I love me some beadboard, and I got an itch a few months ago to redo my redo with it:

Sigh. You just can’t go wrong with beadboard — really. Reheheally. The addition of corbels finished off the furniture-look I was going for. Lastly, I cut down the chair legs by two inches with my compound miter saw (they were too tall) and upholstered my chairs to add a pop of color and cush for the tush.
The after…

Best of all, this project was less than $50 to complete!

Thanks from One Project Closer

Sarah, this is a great DIY project, and it looks fantastic. Plus, everyone loves a beautiful transformation that doesn’t break the bank.

Habitat Quick Fact

Even the President and first lady are volunteering with Habitat. From the Habitat site…

National Day of Service and Remembrance
“We are honored that President and Mrs. Obama spent part of the National Day of Service and Remembrance working with Habitat for Humanity,” said Kent Adcock, executive director of Habitat for Humanity of Washington, D.C. “The visit highlights the dedicated volunteers who work in partnership with communities worldwide and enable Habitat to provide affordable housing with families in need.”

September 11 was officially recognized as the National Day of Service and Remembrance as part of the Edward M. Kennedy Serve America Act. The mission of the day is to honor the victims and those who rose to service in response to the terrorist attacks on September 11, 2001, by encouraging all Americans and others throughout the world to perform at least one good deed on September 11 each year.

The End of our Before and After Contest

This marks the end of our Before and After series for 2009. Stay tuned as we still need to select a grand prize winner!

Seal Ducts Using Mastic to Eliminate Air Leaks

Energy efficient homes are better for the environment and easier on your wallet, and the biggest energy hogs in most homes are the heating and cooling systems. Maximizing these areas can have a dramatic impact on energy costs. There are simple things homeowners can do to ensure these units run smoothly, like cleaning your outdoor AC coil, but don’t overlook the ductwork.

Most homes feature ductwork to deliver conditioned air throughout the house. Energy Star states that leaky ductwork can account for up to 30% of a homes total heating and cooling costs. There are several different ways to seal ductwork, but applying mastic is the best option.

Benefits of Sealing with Mastic

Mastic is a gummy adhesive. It will stick to just about anything making it easy to apply. It dries solid, forming an airtight seal over gaps and holes, but can still bend and flex as ductwork expands or contracts. Unlike foil tape which can loose its hold over time, mastic will stay fixed in place.

Recommended Mastic

Not all mastics are the same. I suggest using a water-based mastic as they release less fumes. Look for the UL-181 seal of approval. These mastics are more flexible, longer lasting, and adhere to ducts better. Choose a mastic that is reinforced with fiberglass for additional strength. Also look for water resistance, a low flame spread and a low smoke-develop rating.

Where to Apply Mastic

The short answer to this question is wherever air is escaping. Feel around ductwork while your HVAC system is active to find leaks. Here are some specific areas you should target:

• Transitions - Wherever one piece of ductwork is butted up against another. This can occur when ductwork changes size or shape, but there may also be in-line transitions. Also, check out any flexible duct connections.
• HVAC unit – Big culprits here are where the indoor coil connects to the furnace and/or ductwork. Look for leaks around freon lines and wiring. Don’t mastic any access panels – use foil tape instead.
• Register boot – Ductwork often turns a sharp corner just before terminating at a register. These are common problem areas.

How to Apply Mastic

Begin by inspecting your duct work. Make sure everything is secured and fix any poor connections. For large gaps, you may need to secure sheet metal with self-tapping screws and then mastic the seams. The mastic should fully cure in about 24 hours.

• Wipe the duct clean before applying. Dust and dirt can prevent the mastic from creating a strong seal.
• Apply the mastic with your hand, paintbrush or trowel. Choose whatever is most convenient for you but be careful of sharp edges and corners. Wear heavy gloves to protect your hands.
• Use enough mastic to create a continuous coating with a ½″ overlap around any hole or joint. Lightly work the mastic into cracks and joints. You don’t need a very thick coating, just enough to fill all gaps.
• Mesh tape is useful for reinforcing areas with gaps between ¼” - ½” and joints. It’s applied much like drywall tape.  Make sure the tape is compatible with the mastic you have selected.

What do you think? What tips can you offer for applying mastic?

Is it OK to Put Hardwood Floors in a Kitchen or Bathroom?

Reader Question: I am considering putting hardwood floors in my living room and dining room. The kitchen sits next to both rooms and I’m wondering if I should lay hardwoods in the kitchen as well? I’ve seen hardwoods in some high kitchens, but at least two of my friends have warned about water in the kitchen ruining the wood. Should I be worried? Is there a better type of hardwoods for kitchens? Lynne.

Lynne, excellent questions, and the subject of at least a few water cooler conversations around my office.  Hardwoods add value to a home no matter which direction you choose, so congratulations on tackling this project.

In our last house, we opted to install hardwoods only in areas without plumbing; however, this isn’t necessarily required.  Ethan and Jocie installed hardwoods in their bathroom, and we’re considering hardwoods for the entire first floor of our home, which includes both a kitchen and a bathroom.

Advantages of Installing Hardwood Floors in Kitchens and Bathrooms

The appeal of putting hardwoods in the kitchen (and even in nearby bathrooms, or any adjacent rooms) is that putting the same surface in multiple rooms makes the house feel larger. When rooms are divided with different flooring surfaces (or soffits, or other visual mechanisms), the perimeter of the room becomes visually obvious and the space feels more confining. If we use more natural dividing mechanisms (e.g., creative furniture placement), we eliminate this. Also, uniform floors allow for more creative furniture placement since you aren’t trying to align with artificial divisions between the spaces.

Hardwoods in Moisture-prone Areas

Of course, the issue with kitchen and bathroom installation is the danger that hardwoods will get wet due to spills or plumbing back-ups/malfunctions. When wood floors get wet, they expand.  This can cause the fasteners to pull away from the floor, or the floor to buckle.  There are a few ways to mitigate this risk:

Option 1: Install engineered flooring that does not expand/contract significantly with moisture. Engineered flooring is made by laminating multiple layers of flooring at 90 degree angles (much like plywood), usually with a 3/32” veneer on top. Engineered flooring can be refinished like regular wood, although not as many times, and is suitable for installation in kitchens and bathrooms. Engineered floors looks just like real 3/4 inch solid flooring, and for most installations will add the same value as solid oak flooring.  Here’s a picture of an engineered maple wood installed in a kitchen with cherry cabinets.

Option 2: Install unfinished solid hardwoods and finish the floor in place instead of installing pre-finished floors. Prefinished floors make installation easy as they avoid sanding, staining, and sealing on site. However, these floors will have small gaps between the boards that let moisture seep down between them. If you seal an unfinished floor after installation, the polyurethane acts as a unified moisture barrier filling all the cracks between the boards.

Option 3: Install regular pre-finished, solid wood flooring and take the risk. The odds of a massive water spill aren’t that great, and in many cases you won’t have a huge problem even if the wood does get wet. We’ve been in many houses with prefinished hardwoods in the kitchen for years that have had no issues.

Sealing Prefinished Hardwoods

One creative approach we’ve seen for mitigating the risk of moisture on prefinished woods is to seal the sides of the wood prior to installation. This method is slow because care must be taken to avoid painting sealer on the surface of the wood. Does it work? Maybe.  Sealing the sides of the wood may prevent water from entering the boards on the sides, but it could also make the seal between adjacent boards looser, increasing the chances of water seeping between the boards in the first place. In any event, do not seal the entire board as this won’t let the hardwoods breath and is more prone to trapping moisture that does manage to get inside.

Installing Hardwoods Yourself

One thing you didn’t mention in your question was whether you will install the hardwoods yourself or hire a contractor.  We think hardwoods are an excellent job for DIYers.  Check out our complete list of hardwood flooring tools for more information on everything you need to do the job youself.

(photo credit: tronics)

Review: Craftsman 5-Drawer Workbench Addition

This is the third post in my Craftsman Tool Storage series. Craftsman provided us element from their Garage Storage System and we’ve already covered the Craftsman Workbench and the Craftsman Floor Cabinet. This post will focus on the Craftsman 5-Drawer Workbench Addition.

This 5-drawer module makes the already great workbench, that much better. Initially, I didn’t think the drawers would hold very much, but I was pleasently surprised. I just kept grabbing more hand-tools and materials, neatly organizing them for very convienient storage.

Where to Buy the Craftsman 5-Drawer Workbench Module

This 5-drawer addition works in conjunction with the Craftsman workbench. We were really impressed with how this module maximizes the storage space beneath the workbench. Installation was easy and you’ll fit more into these drawers that you realize. This all steel constructed module is a must-have for the Craftsman storage system. You can purchase this drawer system for $179.99 from  Sears or Craftsman.com. Here’s the link:

• 5-Drawer Workbench Module

Craftsman 5-Drawer Module Review

Storage Space
This module features 5 drawers. They ride on ball-bearings and extend to the full depth of the unit – preventing lost space or items. The drawers mount underneath the Craftsman workbench and really utilize the full space available. Here are the individual drawer heights:

• 9 ½”, 6″, 4″, 2 ¾”, 2 ¾”

Since these drawers are attached, you can open all the drawers at the same time without fear of the unit tipping over. No other drawer system integrates so flawlessly. The Craftsman workbench can incorporate two of these drawer modules for an immense amount of storage.

Quality Construction
Like the other items in this storage system, the drawer module is made from high-quality, steel with a baked enamel finish. There are 5 drawers each rated to hold 50 lbs.

Drawer Dimensions
Here are the dimensions for the 5-drawer module.

Assembling & Installing the Module
Assembling the module was straightforward. The instructions are simple and easy to understand and include great diagrams. Mounting each drawer track is a bit tedious and time consuming, but not difficult. Grab your 7/16″ socket, 11/32″ wrench, and both a Philips and flat screwdriver for this assembly. You will need access to the backside of the drawers / workbench. If possible, setup your workbench in an open space then add the drawers. If you’re missing any parts, call 1-800-4MY-HOME (1-800-469-4663).

Benefits of the Craftsman 5-Drawer Addition
Here’s some additional features to keep in mind:

• The drawers include height-adjustable, feet ensuring it’s level and up off the floor.
• Different drawers have different depths allowing you to put even large items inside.
• The drawers can be setup in whatever order you choose.
• Drawers can be mounted to either the left or right side of the workbench for maximum versatility.

What do you think? Did you purchase the 5-drawer module? What’s your experience?

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