Miracle on 34th Street, Baltimore Style
December 24, 2009 by Fred
Filed under News / Editorial
Every year, a small subdivision of Baltimore City located on the 700 block of 34th street puts on a spectacular Christmas lights display–the kind of show that gives Vegas a run for its money.
We’ve been every year of the last five, each year before only driving amidst the bumper-to-bumper traffic to get a look at the light displays and decked halls. This year, we decided to park down the street and take a stroll down 34th street so we could share the scenes with you.
If you’re not from Baltimore, you probably only know Miracle on 34th Street as the 1947 classic with Natalie Wood and Gene Lockhart.
When that movie debuted, two of the folks who lived on 34th street in a subdivision called Hampden decided to start a tradition that has brought holiday cheer to hundreds of thousands of visitors. It’s grown over the years and now nearly every house on the block participates. In fact, they’ve done all but written the celebration requirement into the deeds of the properties!
The decorations are cheerful and eclectic, with Christmas trees made of lights, vinyl records, and even hub caps. One of our personal favorites: the Old Bay Christmas tree, decorated with hanging cans of Old Bay Seasoning, a MD crab-lovers favorite! The blizzard of 2009 added snow to the mix, really making this year special.
Aside from the thousands of lights, there’s peace signs, menorahs, blow-up santas, nativities, reindeer, dolls, and one house with a walk-in tour that featured snow flakes painted on the floor and metal artwork.
If you get a chance to visit the Baltimore area during the holidays, you must walk through! For those of you who can’t make it in person, here’s a walk down 34th street, in pictures…
34th Street Baltimore Picture Tour




Merry Christmas Eve!
As all of us here at One Project Closer are prepping our homes for the big celebration, we hope your families are together, safe, and healthy this holiday season. Thanks for reading and commenting here so frequently. We absolutely love this hobby – and you all make it really great for us.
What do you think? It is the most wonderful time of the year, isn’t it?
P.S. If any of our readers actually live on 34th street in Baltimore, drop us a line so we can say thank you! And keep up the good work!
Insulate Band Board / Rim Joist To Block Air Infiltration into a Basement
December 19, 2009 by Fred
Filed under Insulation
If your looking for ways to improve the energy efficiency of your home, you might turn to the area of your unfinished basement ceiling where the joists meet the sill plate (at the top of the wall) and the rim joist (or band board) at the edge of the house.
It’s in this area that most of the air infiltration into a basement takes place, and an area where you can make a significant improvement in the energy efficiency of your home.
Insulating Basement Joists at the Rim Is Important
The reason insulating in this area is important is because much of the heat loss in a home is due to convection – the loss of heat that is carried away by drafts whipping through the basement.
Since wood joists make imperfect joins, they are highly prone to air leaks. The area where the joists meet the rim will have literally thousands of gaps.
Ways to Insulate the Band Board

There are a number of basement insulation options to consider for this job. We chose open and closed cell spray foam for our own home. We believe spray foam is the #1 way to insulate this area and will yield the best results. Unfortunately, spray foam is expensive and generally requires a contractor for the installation. There are DIY kits available but the cost is nearly as high as hiring pro help.
Here’s a few suggestions for insulating this key area of your home:
Fiberglass: The easiest method is to obtain kraft-faced fiberglass batting (the pink stuff) and stuff it tightly in between the joists. We recommend going with an R-30 insulation as opposed to traditional R-13 wall insulation, since you’ll usually have the extra space and you want to maximize the seal. StuccoHouse just added fiberglass in their home and we’re sure it will pay dividends. You can visit that post for some great pictures of this job which only takes a few hours. You can also add to the fiberglass installation with the following:
- Great Stuff Foam: If you want to sure up the seal, before adding fiberglass you can pick up a few cans of Great Stuff spray foam and spray it into the corners and butt joints on the rim joist, sill plate, and flooring above. Use the small straw that comes with to get into small cavities.
- Caulk: As an alternative to Great Stuff, caulk can be used to seal the gaps. Great stuff has the advantage of finding and entering small cavities as it expands, but caulk is also a viable option. After caulking, install fiberglass.
Wet Cellulose: Wet cellulose (like NuWool) is an option only if you’re doing all the walls in the basement. We like closed cell foam better for this option since it provides its own vapor barrier which you’ll need to prevent moisture from condensating on the block/concrete wall, but wet cellulose can work.
Spray Foam: The picture in the upper right of this article shows spray foam installed between the joists. Like Great Stuff, spray foam expands to fill the available space, creating an extremely tight seal. You can watch our video on spray foam for a complete rundown on the material.
Energy Savings & Tax Credits for Insulation
Each home is different, and the energy savings will vary. If you have no insulation in the joists today, you could be wasting more than 15% of the energy in your own. Leaks cost money… a lot of money. Stop them, and you get instant savings.
As a bonus, the U.S. Government will chip in if you tackle this job in the next 12 months. In 2009, and now extended through 2010, there are energy tax credits for insulation that will provide you as much as a 30% back for doing this job.
What do you think? Have you insulated your basement?
Fix a Snowblower that Won’t Start | Snow Blower Help
December 19, 2009 by Fred
Filed under NotIndexed, Tools

It’s a frustrating thing… to have a snowblower and not be able to use it. If you’re in this situation, there is hope… Here’s some things to check.
Snowblower Start-up Maintenance
Check for Bad Gas – By far the #1 reason a snow blower won’t start is because the gasoline is bad. Many people don’t empty out the snowblower’s gas tank at the end of the season and the gas goes stale. If you’re in this situation, the solution is to drain the gas tank, and refill it with new gas. You should always let the snow blower run out of gas at the end of the season, and add new gas the following year.
Check that the Gas/Oil Mixture is Correct – If you have a two-stroke snow blower, you need to be sure the gas/oil mixture is correct. Our Toro snowblower takes a 50:1 mixture. Other blowers will take 40:1 or 30:1. Check the owner’s manual. Most 2-stroke oil cans will give you instructions to get the proper mix.
Make Sure You’re Using the Electric Start Option – Most mid-to-high end snow blowers come with an electric starter and a pull starter. The only time you should use the pull starter is if the snow blower has already been running and you’ve turned it off briefly to clean it or add gas.
Check the Engine Oil Choke - Just like a riding lawn mower or gas string trimmer, you may need to choke the engine to get it started. There’s usually a slide lever somewhere on the blower used to control the choke level.
Prime the Engine – Most snow blowers have a primer button on them to prime the engine. This is very important, particularly if you previously ran the lawnmower out of gas. Priming the engine moves fuel through the fuel lines and into the cylinder(s) where it can ignite. Our Toro snowblower recommends pressing the primer button twice. We’ve found it actually requires more like 8-10 pumps to get going. Be careful not to over-prime, however, since it can flood the engine. Prime the least number of times required to get it started.
Check the Throttle – For starting, the throttle should be set to full-open so that no air is restricted going into the engine. Some snowblowers have throttle control, and will usually indicate the ‘start’ position on the throttle selection lever.
Check the Blades for Lock-up – Ensure that the blades can move freely. Make sure the snow blower is off and disconnected from power, then check whether the blades can be moved by hand. When in neutral, locked blades shouldn’t prevent a lawn mower from starting, so this is rare.
Snowblower Engine Checks
If you’ve made it this far in the list and you still aren’t getting it started, it could be a bad spark plug. Consult the owner’s manual for assistance with these.
Check/Replace the Spark Plug – You should be able to find a replacement spark plug at the local big box.
Check/Replace the Fuel Filter – Some snow blowers will have a small fuel filter on the fuel line. This can become clogged over time and constrict fuel flow to such a great extent that it won’t run.
Check/Replace the Engine Air Filter – If the snow blower has an engine air filter, it can degrade performance. We’ve never seen an air filter prevent a snow blower from starting, but it’s still something to check.
Check/Clean the Carburetor – If you let gas sit in the snowblower over the last season, there’s a good chance the carburetor needs to be cleaned. Bad gas can gum up a carburetor. There are plenty of instructions online for cleaning a carburetor.
If All Else Fails…
Try asking a question in our Tools Discussion Forum to see if someone can help… or take it into the local service center.
(photo: joebeone)
P.S. Our friends over at Charles and Hudson give us some more Blizzard Preparation Tips … worth a read on a cold Winter day.
Charities List for Household Item Drop-off
December 19, 2009 by Kim
Filed under News / Editorial
A little over a year ago, I posted about Charities with Local-Pickup service. I’d like to follow up with a list of places to take your stuff if you don’t live in an area with door-step service or if you just want that stuff outta there and don’t want to wait till the next available pickup date.
So here is a list of charities that have drop-locations where you can take used items:
USA National Charities for Item Drop-off:
- AMVETS (American Veterans National Service Foundation) http://www.amvetsnsf.org/stores.html
- Goodwill: http://locator.goodwill.org
- Habitat for Humanity ReStores: http://www.habitat.org/env/restores.aspx
- Salvation Army: http://www.satruck.com/donate-goods
USA Limited-Location Charities for Item Drop-off:
- Planet Aid: http://www.planetaid.org/
In Canada:
- Canadian Diabetes Association (Canada only): http://www.diabetes.ca/get-involved/supporting-us/clothesline/find-a-dropbox/
I’ll continue to update these lists as I find out about more, so please DO leave a comment if you know of one I missed!
Don’t forget to:
- Itemize your donations if you want to right them off on your taxes (I recommend taking digital pictures as proof & I recommend using itsdeductible.com as a guide for how much of a deduction to take for each item).
- Obtain a receipt at the drop-off location.
- Only donate goods that are in reasonably good condition. You can’t deduct items that are ‘fair’ quality on your taxes, and poor quality materials shouldn’t be donated, anyway. Please don’t donate what ought to be thrown away.
Installing and Configuring VersaTrack Trackwall
December 17, 2009 by Ethan
Filed under Garage & Workshop, NotIndexed
Craftsman VersaTrack is a really good storage & organization option. It’s easy to install, has multiple configurations, and lots of great accessories. In my basement, I’ve found it really helps me take advantage of space that is otherwise un-usable. Check out my VersaTrack review for more details.
A big strength of VersaTrack is the different ways it can be installed. This post will provide installation instructions and explore a couple different ways to setup your trackwall.
How to Install VersaTrack Trackwall
VersaTrack can be installed over drywall, wall studs or masonry.
Drywall and Studs: In this scenario, be sure to mount the each segment of trackwall to at least two studs. For drywall, you may need to use a stud finder.
Masonry: For masonry, get a hammer drill (review) and a masonry drill bit. A regular drill/driver takes about 5 minutes to drill each hole.
Hardware: VersaTrack doesn’t come with any hardware so swing by your local DIY store. Purchase #10 or 5mm masonry or wood screws depending on your applications. Expect to put about 6 screws per segment of trackwall.
Installation Note: these directions are not meant to replace manufacturers directions: Place a segment of trackwall in the desired location and check to make sure it’s level. I found taping it in place helped keep things where I wanted them. You’ll place two screws at each end and every 16-24″. Drill 1/8″ pilot holes for all screws. Position the screws about 3/8″ away from the ends and countersink.
Joiners: Joiners are used in-line to join two pieces of track, however you can’t hang items (hooks, cabinets) on top of them. These are particularly useful for mounting to studs.
VersaTrack Configurations
VersaTrack can be mounted in several different configurations making it a very versatile product.
Single, long line: Consider installing the segments in one, continuous line. This enables you to hang cabinets and lots of hooks anywhere across a large distance. This is an ideal configuration for anyone hanging several cabinets, or with lots of long handled tools.
With pegboard: VersaTrack is designed to work with 1/8″ or 1/4″ pegboard. Each segment has a groove that can be used to cap the top and bottom of a piece of pegboard. This option really provides a lot of storage without spending too much. Keep in mind that the bottom segment is mounted up-side-down.
Wall of VersaTrack: Go all out and setup and entire wall of VersaTrack. The same groove for pegboard, can be used to fit another piece of trackwall. While being the most expensive, this option gives you the ultimate in storage and organization.
What do you think? What’s your experience with VersaTrack?
DAP Sealant to Winterize Your Home
December 15, 2009 by Ethan
Filed under Insulation, NotIndexed
I recently began checking my home for air leaks and boy did I find them. I started with a couple exhaust vents and was surprised to find little bits of sunlight coming through (see picture). This is a common place for air leaks but fortunately there is an easy solution. Click here for help finding air leaks in your home.
DAPtex Plus
DAP (official site) is the maker of DAPtex Plus foam sealant. It’s designed to seal up cracks, gaps, and voids like the one I described around my exhaust pipes. It features CoVinyl-X9000 “for superior weather resistance plus added toughness and durability”. What that means to me is that cold air, rain and even pests won’t have easy access to my home anymore.
DAP was kind enough to send me a few samples including DAPtex Plus. I used it over the weekend with great results. Read on for a step-by-step guide to sealing air leaks in your home.

DAPtex Plus Uses & Information
The label on DAPtex Plus is a little misleading. The full name is DAPtex Plus Window & Door Foam Sealant but it can be used in many areas, both inside and outside. Here are some suggested uses:
- Windows
- Doors
- Ducts
- Vents
- Pipes
The foam comes in a small pressurized can- it looks similar to a can of spray paint. DAP includes a straw to fit into the nozzle enabling you to better direct the foam. The foam comes out white and takes about 24 hours to fully cure. Before it cures, the foam is workable (toolable) and cleans up with soap and water. After it cures, the foam is sponge-like and can be painted with latex paint.
Where to Find DAPtex Plus
DAP products are available from several retailers. Some of the most common distributors include Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, Target, and Walmart. Click here to locate a retailer near you. You shouldn’t have any problem finding this product. Expect to pay around $6-7 for a 12oz. can.
How to Seal Air Leaks
Sealing up air leaks is a simple project and it will improve the energy efficiency of your home.
Note: these guidelines are not meant to replace manufacturers directions
Access: I needed a little more access, so I cut a rough opening in the insulation board with a utility knife. For pipes, make sure you can reach the entire circumference before proceeding.
Prep: Clean up the application area by removing any dust, debris, grease and dirt. I used my shop vac. Shake the can really well for about 1 minute. You’ll actually be able to hear the foam moving around. Push the straw into the nozzle and remove the safety tab above the trigger.
Install: Hold the can in an upright position and pull the trigger. A small putty knife is really useful to work the foam into place. Have a wet rag nearby to wipe up any excess.

Additional Information
- For outside applications, you have to paint the foam with a latex paint after it’s fully cured.
- Clean up the straw and nozzle with warm water for future uses.
- You can scrap off cured sealant but for best results, work it in place while it’s still wet.
- If you’re concerned about a large space, consider how spray foam insulation may help.
What do you think? What air leaks are you going to seal?
Delta Faucet Review | “ToucH2O” Automatic Touch-on Technology
Every now and then a truly innovative technology comes along and makes life better. You know… like the remote control, or the dishwasher, or stain-resistant carpet.
Delta Faucet is hoping their latest ToucH20 technology (official site) improves your kitchen faucet experience. But does it really work? Will hand washing be changed forever?
Maybe so. Read on to learn more about the technology and get our take on Delta’s latest and greatest invention.
What Is ToucH2O?
The concept behind ToucH2O is simple: take the touch bright technology that’s been commonplace in lamps for 2 decades and use it to automatically control a faucet’s on/off state. Delta achieves this with a touch sensor embedded in the faucet housing, a solenoid valve inserted between the plumbing and the faucet, and four c-size batteries in a battery pack located under the sink. The expected result: a faucet that turns on when you touch it with any part of your hand, and turns off just the same.

Delta recently shipped us the Pilar Single-Handle Pull Down version of this faucet to test and review. We installed it last week and have been using it for a few days now.
We like it. Here’s the rundown:
Delta ToucH2O Faucet Review

- The highs: Touch-on/off works great. Reasonably simple installation. Spray-nozzle extends and retracts easily. Good water flow.
- The lows: Price. Faucet can accidentally turn on during cleaning. Did we mention price?
- The verdict: A super sweet upgrade that takes a posh kitchen to the next level.
>> Installation >>
Installation took about 2 hours. Delta’s instructions are straightforward (although a bit daunting at first… there’s a good number of pieces and the instructions fold out to a poster-board-sized sheet).
We probably could have completed the installation in an hour if it weren’t for the clean-up work associated with removing our 25-year-old faucet. It had partially disintegrated and marred the surface of our stainless sink.
If you’re performing a new kitchen installation, you can expect to spend 1 – 1.5 hours on the install, unless you install faucets for a living (subtract 30 minutes), or you have a 25 year old faucet of your own (add 1 hour).
Delta gets two thumbs up for:
- including compression plumbing connections that eliminate the need for teflon plumber’s tape.
- color-coding the hot and cold water lines to eliminate confusion.
- including a stabilizer block for installations on stainless sinks.
- including the four C batteries needed for the faucet to work.
>> Features & Performance >>
After four days of use, we think Delta’s really on to something with the ToucH20 concept. Here’s the highlights:
On/off control: The ToucH2O’s automatic on/off control is the centerpiece of the design. Delta delivers on their marketing with a very smart approach to the feature.
The faucet changes on/off state when you touch anywhere on the faucet with the exception of the spray nozzle head or the soap dispenser. The really smart part is that the faucet only changes state if you touch it for about 1/4 – 3/4 of a second. Any longer, and it doesn’t change state (because you’re probably moving the nozzle between sinks, for instance, and not trying to turn it off or on). Any shorter, and the faucet usually doesn’t register the touch. It’s easy to get the hang of it.
We noticed that when cleaning around the base of the faucet it is easy to accidentally turn it on… a minor nuisance. We haven’t had any “ghost” activity – something I feared immediately after installation. The device is stable and predictable.
As a bonus, since the faucet on/off mechanism isn’t tied to the flow rate or hot/cold mix, you can set the temperature to a comfortable warm level and leave it for most applications.
Flow rate & comfort: Water flow rate is good. We didn’t use any sophisticated measuring equipment, but our subjective experience indicates the faucet puts out as much force as the original. The nozzle comes with two settings, a standard aerated flow and a spray setting for more intensity.
Nozzle/Sprayer Design: Many new faucets use a magnetic spray nozzle head that holds the nozzle in place on the faucet when not pulled away. This design is a big improvement over weighting methods used in the past. Delta’s nozzle head employs this technology and works just as expected… with good range (the spray head pulls out about 18 inches in our setup).
Soap Dispenser: What can we say? It works. Only downer is that you have to crawl under the sink to refill it. Fortunately the reservoir is fairly large.
Price & Where to Buy
MSRP is a whopping $585, a price you might expect to pay including a builder or designer’s markup.
Street prices range from $350 to $500.
You can find the faucet at your local Lowes, Home Depot, and many online retailers.
A Holiday Gift Idea?
Still looking for a gift idea? This is a great one (just make sure you also promise to install it!)
What do you think? Have you tried Delta’s ToucH2O Faucet? Got a question for us? Leave your thoughts in the comments.
(photo credit: delta faucet stock – their countertop looks better than ours).
Note: Delta Faucet provided us the Pilar ToucH20 as part of a test kit. Our reviews are objective and we are not compensated for a positive review.
Home Improvement Gift Ideas
December 9, 2009 by Ethan
Filed under NotIndexed, Tools
I’ve already put together a list of inexpensive gift ideas for DIYers and if you have any to add, be sure the leave a comment. For today’s post, I thought I’d compile a few reviews for some additional inspiration.
Every gift-giving season, I rack my brain for thoughtful ideas. Is this a good product? Will they want one of these? Is this really useful? While none of the reviews below will help me shop for my wife, I thought maybe they’d help out a reader or two. I’ve searched through all the OPC articles and identified a handful of good products that really stood out. Each of the items below is an excellent gift idea. Click on the links for the full, in-depth product review.
Holiday Gift Ideas for 2009
Home Electric Wiring Book
Stanley’s Complete Wiring Manual has everything you need to know about simple home wiring projects – running receptacles, fixtures, and more. This book contains detailed photos and clear instructions guiding you through step-by-step. If you have an electrical project coming up, make sure you have this manual to reference.
Wagner Paint Sprayer
The Wagner paint sprayer can speed you through major painting tasks. It performs well with latex paint and is invaluable for over-head applications. Plus, there are additional gadgets like the roller assembly that really enhance the functionality (and make for good future gifts).
Kreg K4 Pocket Hole System
Joining pieces of wood together is the heart of building furniture, toys, and all kinds of woodworking projects. This jig enables you to create a very strong butt-joint using pocket holes. It’s an invaluable addition with lots of uses – a tool you’ll appreciate for a many years.
Porter Cable 18v Lithium Ion Impact Driver
This Impact Driver is a great tool! It delivers about twice as much torque as your typical drill/driver enabling you to drive through very tough materials. The PC impact driver features a great LED work light and 18 volt Lithium Ion power.
TEK4 Digital Multimeter
Ryobi has a new line of 10 rugged tools called TEK4. All of them would be great gifts including the professional digital multimeter. This multimeter has all the different functions you’d want with a dust and water resistant, durable shell. Check them out.
What do you think? Have you finished your holiday shopping?
Rechargeable D Batteries Review
December 9, 2009 by Ethan
Filed under Green, NotIndexed
When Izzie joined our family, we realized there are lots of things that need batteries. Just check out all the baby items that need D batteries. The kicker is that none of these items even has the option of plugging into an outlet.
- Baby swing – 3 D batteries
- Soothing Vibrations (bouncy seat) – 1 D battery
- Crib Mobile – 3 D batteries
- Diaper disposal – 2 D batteries
We’ve used each of these items at one point or another to keep Izzie happy and/or occupied, although I guess the diaper disposal is more for me and Jocie. Needless to say, we’ve gone through quite a few batteries already. I decided to purchase rechargeable batteries to save some money.
Rechargeable D Batteries
I shopped around and eventually purchased these rechargeable batteries and charger from Amazon. They cost $77.95 after shipping but are still cheaper than buying from the manufacturer. Here’s why I selected these batteries.
Benefits of Tenergy Rechargeable Batteries
These are NiMH batteries with 10,000 mAh capacity each- Very long life time and can be recharged up to 1000 times
- No memory effect
- 6 months warranty
Plus it comes with a great charger.
- Can recharge NiMH and NiCd batteries
- Can recharge AA, AAA, C, D, and 9 volt
- Automatic power cut-off once battery is fully charged
- You can power cycle the batteries to extend their lifetime
Complaints
I only have two complaints.
- You have to charge in pairs. It’s either 2 or 4 at a time
- The instructions say is could take between 2 and 15 hours to completely charge
Long Term Review
Jocie and I have been using these batteries for over 10 months now and we are still very happy with them. We haven’t noticed any drop in battery life and haven’t had to purchase any other D-batteries. Whenever something runs out of juice, we pop the batteries in the charger and get things back up and running in about 5 hours. I’ve actually considered buying more of these batteries but haven’t gotten around to it. I highly recommend these batteries and charger.
Energizer Battery Rip-off
While I was researching batteries, I came across this article from Natural News. The article explains that Energizer was selling rechargeable D batteries with only 2,500 mAh capacity. It goes on to reveal that there was a much smaller, AA sized battery inside the D battery. That didn’t stop Energizer from charging quite a bit more. The lesson to learn is always double check the battery capacity.
What do you think? Did you purchase rechargeable batteries for all your baby stuff?
2010 Energy Tax Credits for Home Improvements (Insulation, Windows, More…)
One nice thing we won’t have to say goodbye to at the end of 2009 is the great tax breaks for energy saving home improvements. Congress extended the majority of the 2009 benefits most homeowners will care about through the end of 2010. Some rarer (and even more green options) stick around all the way until 2016 when, presumably, they may be renewed again.
Despite the year long reprieve on the up-to-$1500 tax credits, we recommend getting the value early. After all, the real savings from energy upgrades hits the bottom line even sooner than tax time through lower energy bills.
So what’s sticking around, and until when? Here’s the rundown from EnergyStar.gov.
2010 Extended Energy Tax Credits – Through 12/31/2010
For all qualified upgrades, the credit is 30% of the covered cost up to a $1500 total credit. For instance, if you pay $3000 for insulation (excluding installation costs), your credit would be $900. The house must be your principal residence and the credits don’t apply to new construction. Other, upgrade-specific restrictions apply, so see the site for details.
Energy Efficient Windows and Doors, including many Storm Doors and Skylights. Cost eligible for the tax credit does not include installation costs (which is OK if you’re installing windows yourself). Certain other restrictions (like U-value and IECC qualifications apply).- Water Heaters. Credit includes installation costs (or you could save more by installing the water heater yourself, if its electric); some restrictions for energy efficiency apply.
- Metal and Asphalt Roofs. Credit does NOT include installation costs. The roof must be highly energy efficient (asphalt roofs must have cooling granules, for instance).
- Insulation, whether spray foam, fiberglass, or blow-in cellulose, they’re all covered so long as they meet IECC requirements. Installation cost is NOT covered.
- HVAC Components, including certain Advanced Air Handlers, Air Force Heat Pumps, Central A/C Units, Boilers, Propane, and Gas Furnaces. Tax credits include installation costs.
- Biomass Stoves.
2016 Extended Energy Tax Credits – Through 12/31/2016
If you’re really going green, you can get 30% back with no upper limit on Geothermal Heat Pumps, Small Wind Turbines, and Solar Energy Systems. These credits apply to new construction and existing residences, as well as second homes (but not rentals).
Full Cells are also eligible for a 30% credit, but the rules are a bit more complex.
What do you think? Will the credits impact your decision to make energy upgrades?