Welcome to our latest Pro-Follow update with professional contractor Joe Bianco as he remodels this basement. Last time we left off, Joe had installed all the base cabinets ^[1] in the wet bar, and today we’re taking a look how the granite countertops and back-splashes were installed. If you remember, the bar area will be galley-style with base cabinets on either side of the egress window ^[2].

Step 1: Move Main Piece into Place

Mr. and Mrs. Homeowner have selected a beautiful granite countertop from a local distributor, and the installers began by moving the two main pieces into place.

Step 2: Install Sink

The wet bar will have a small, under-mount sink on one side.

It’ll be secured with these brackets and anchors.

The guys start by positioning the sink and clamping it in place with a piece of scrap across the opening.

The manufacturer has pre-cut these angled channels all around the sink into the granite to fit the anchors.

The guys also added silicone to the joint between the sink and the countertop.

Step 3: Install the Bar Top

The bar top sits on a half-wall, and the guys first set it in place to test for fit and mark a location for a small piece of supporting molding.

You can see the wall isn’t 100% square so the installers scribed a line using green tape. Although most of the gap is concealed behind the side / back-splashes, it’s important that the countertop be tight against the wall along the finished edge.

With a grinder and carbide blade, the installers cut a new edge to better match the wall.

Meanwhile Joe cut a small piece of molding to help support the granite.

Step 4: Mix and Spread Adhesive

The installers mixed a generous portion of adhesive and cream hardener.

They spread globs of the adhesive and acrylic latex caulk underneath the bar top.

Step 5: Shim Level

Using small shims they ensured a perfectly level countertop. These shims will be cut later and that edge will be covered with decorative molding.

Step 6: Cut Back-Splashes

All the back-splashes and side-splashes are 4″ pieces of granite that the installer cuts to size on-site. They also cut this access for the electrical outlet.

Pro-Tip: Granite should be cut 1/2″ or thicker. Slimmer cuts may result in breaks and cracks.

Using the grinder and a carbide hole-saw, the installers cut the opening for the sink faucet.

Step 7: Clean and Glue

With the back-splashes cut to size, the guys put a few globs of silicone behind them and sealed all the joints.

Pro-Tip: Clear silicone goes on white and dries clear.

The installers also ran a bead of silicone along the face of the cabinets where they join the countertops.

Finished