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How to Change the Oil in a Car or Truck (Example: Dodge Caravan)

Like everything else DIY, changing your own oil is a great way to fight the recession blues.  It’ll save you between 50-75% off what you might pay to one of those quick lube places… and, it probably takes a lot less time than you think.  Plus, you’ll have the satisfaction of knowing that you can do it yourself!

Savings by Changing your Own Oil

Consider that the average oil change at the local quick lube place costs upwards of $35, while changing your own oil is around $9.  If you change your oil 4 times a year, that’s more than a $100 savings.  If you normally take advantage of the extra services at your favorite oil change location, you’re probably paying a 100% markup for parts and installation, when you could have done it yourself. 

High markup extras include things like changing the air filter, new bulbs for your headlights/taillights, transmission fluid changes, etc.  Many of these extras were designed to be maintained by the owner of the vehicle and not the shop.   Add all these extras up, and you could see a $200-300 maintenance upcharge over a 1 year period.

It Takes Less Time than You Think

Changing the oil in a typical automobile takes about 15-20 minutes.  For first timers, you can expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour, but trust me, you’ll get quicker and the investment will be well worth it.  Once you tackle this, you’ll be ready to do more of your own car maintenance, and you’ll be better equipped to maintain your other gas-powered equipment.

Tools Required to Change the Oil

There’s only a few tools needed to change the oil, many of which you probably already own.  Here’s what we used for this example.

  1. Ramps (not shown) (note: Make sure you get ramps that fit under trim pieces on the front of your car.  Ensure the ramps have the proper weight-bearing capacity)
  2. Plastic Oil Pan (we prefer the easy pour type)
  3. 5 Gallon Gas Container (for storing old oil)
  4. Oil Filter Socket (socket should be sized for the oil filter on your vehicle)
  5. Ratchet*
  6. Standard Socket* (socket should be sized for the screw on the bottom of your oil pan)
  7. Funnel

* you can substitute the ratchet and standard socket for a wrench if you aren’t going to use an oil filter socket

Materials Required to Change the Oil

  1. Synthetic or Regular Motor Oil (Be sure to use the proper-type oil for your vehicle.  The proper type will be listed in the owner’s manual and is usually listed as something like 5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40.  Most vehicles will take between 4-6 qts. of oil.  You can save about 5% by purchasing oil by the gallon instead of by the quart
  2. Oil Filter (Check your owner’s manual for the right filter type)
  3. Paper Towels

Steps to Change the Oil in a Car or Truck

You should always follow the oil change steps included with your vehicle.  Below are the steps we followed for our Dodge Caravan.  Despite the long list, these are actually very simple steps that can be accomplished by a novice.

  1. Place the ramps evenly in front of the front wheels of the vehicle.
  2. Drive the vehicle up on to the ramps.  Put the auto in Park (automatic) or a gear (manual), engage the emergency/parking brake, and turn off the minivan.
  3. Inspect the wheels and ramps to ensure the car or truck is completely on the ramps (wheels are stable), and there is no change the ramps will move.  Remember, you will need to get under the vehicle, so this step is important.
  4. Climb under the car.
  5. Locate the drain pan and drain bolt under the vehicle.  Place your oil pan under the drain pan bolt and remove the bolt.  Oil will begin to drain out of the drain pan into your pan. (note: use the right size socket to avoid stripping the head).
  6. Once almost no oil is flowing out of the drain pan, replace the bolt and tighten.  (Note: do not overtighten the bolt as it could strip.  The owner’s manual will specificy the proper torque for the bolt.  If you have a torque wrench, you may use this instead of the socket to ensure perfect torque).
  7. Locate the oil filter (usually close to the drain pan).  Place your pan under the filter. 
  8. Using the oil filter socket, remove the filter.  As you remove the filter, oil will begin to drip around the filter.  Keep unscrewing the filter until it comes free from the car.  Allow the excess oil around the filter to drain into the pan.  (note: this is usually the messiest step).
  9. Check the location where the filter is attached to the vehicle to ensure no residue is remaining from the prior filter (sometimes the gasket that is attached to the filter breaks down and sticks to the housing).  If the gasket remains, scrape it off.  This is rare, but can happen when the oil filter has not been changed for a long time.
  10. Install your new oil filter with the oil filter wrench.  Tighten the filter against the housing, but do not overtighten.  Medium-strength hand tightening is appropriate.
  11. Climb out from under the vehicle.
  12. Locate the oil fill cap.  The cap is usually prominently labeled on top of the engine. 
  13. Unscrew the cap. 
  14. Fill the oil resevoir to 1 qt. less than is specified in the owner’s manual.  (e.g., if the manual says 5 qts are required, fill with 4 qts.)
  15. After you get to within 1 qt. of the total fill, check the dipstick regularly to determine the exact amount of oil to put in.
  16. When the dipstick reads full, replace the oil cap, and start the vehicle.  Allow the engine to run for 20 seconds, then turn the car off again.  This gets the oil moving around in the engine and will reveal additional capacity.  (Note, it is normal for the dashboard to report low oil pressure for the first few seconds on startup.  If it remains for more than 5 seconds, turn off the engine and check your work!)
  17. Wait about 60 seconds and read the dipstick again.  In most vehicles, the dipstick will report about 1/2 qt. low.  Fill the engine with oil until the dipstick reads full again.  Note: Do not overfill!
  18. Replace the oil cap and do a final inspection.  Ensure you (a) replaced and tightened the oil pan bolt; (b) replaced and tightened the oil filter, (c) filled the vehicle with new oil, and (d) replaced the oil fill cap.
  19. Start the engine.  Listen for any issues.  If none are found, you’re done!

How to Dispose of Used Oil

Believe it or not, most auto parts stores have a giant resevoir in the back for used oil.  Customers are welcome use the resevoir, despite the feature being poorly advertised.  In our area, both Pep Boys and Advance offer this service. 

Remember: Auto parts stores want you to buy their oil, so they have every incentive to let you drop off your used oil!

We store used oil in a 5 gallon gas container.  Every oil change yields about 1.2 gallons of oil, so every 4 changes, I make a run to the auto parts store.  I buy all the materials for the next 4 changes at that trip.  I maintain two cars (for about 8 changes/year), yielding about 2 trips.

What do you think?  Do you change your own oil?

First photo courtesy of Robert Couse-Baker.

Comments & Conversation on this Article...

4 Responses to How to Change the Oil in a Car or Truck (Example: Dodge Caravan)

  • Christopher Busta-Peck responds...
    December 30th, 2008 10:19 am

    While I agree with most everything that you say, I’ll argue that, at least on my 2000 Plymouth Voyager, it’s well worth the fee charged by the lube shops for the replacement of the air filter. It seems that they charge a straight fee for labor, which is based on cars with easier to replace air filters. On the Voyager and Caravan of that vintage, it’s such an absolute pain to wrestle the housing apart that it’s quite worth the $6 +cost of filter.

  • Rhonda Martin responds...
    December 30th, 2008 10:57 pm

    It’s worth it in the summer so yes I do my oil changes myself from May to Sept. I change my oil once a month and it does save me money however in the winter here it is darn right cold sometimes down to -40 below and no way am I doing my own oil changes then. It’s well worth paying someone else for sure.

  • Fred responds...
    December 30th, 2008 11:05 pm

    Rhonda – Excellent point. I try to schedule my changes to avoid the most brutal months – but that would be pretty hard to do if you’re changing it every month… You must do a lot of driving!

    We got a break in the weather two days ago that let me get to our minivan to put together this post. Still a little cold, but for 15 minutes, I stuck it out. Course, down here in MD we rarely get sub-zero temperatures.

  • Mike W responds...
    December 31st, 2008 1:11 pm

    I used to change my own oil, that is before I started working over 50 hours a week. Well now with my job not looking so hot and me working less than half of what I was before, well this is a good ideal on a simple way to cut my expenses down. And yes most anyone can do this simple chore.

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