How to Frame with Steel (Metal) Studs
My brother and his wife are right in the middle of renovating their kitchen. They are at the framing and drywalling step right now and I got a chance to help out installing steel studs.
Steel studs make a great alternative to wood. They have some big benefits (that I’ll write about later) and are easy to install. This post will go over how to install steel studs and the tools required.
Tools Needed for Installing Steel Studs
The tools required for this project are commonplace and easy to use. They include: measuring tape, metal snips, drill, sheet metal pliers (or just wide mouthed pliers), level, and locking pliers. No major power tools necessary. The metal snips are used to cut the studs to size. The drill is for inserting the self-tapping screws (no need for pre-drilling). And the locking pliers will act as a second set of hands to keeps things in place.
How to Install Steel Studs
Begin by attaching track to the ceiling and floor. Track is wider than the studs so they can fit together. If you’re working on concrete you’ll need to pre-drill the holes with a masonry bit and use masonry screws. Place screws about every 3 feet. Overlap corners by notching the flange of one track. And provide a 6″ overlap for long, straight track runs.
Use the metal snips to cut the track / studs as needed. Measure each piece for a tight fit at the top and bottom. Be careful of sharp edges and use gloves to protect your hands.
Use the locking pliers to hold studs in place while you insert 1/2″ self-tapping screws. Make sure you don’t strip the screw hole which can weaken the joint. Use the level to keep everything straight and balanced. Bend pieces with the metal pliers to create headers for doors or windows and help create bulkheads.
The studs will have knock-outs for running utilities. Insert plastic bushings to protect any electrical wires from sharp edges. Make sure to use the correct electrical boxes designed for steel studs. Don’t try to nail into the steel. Instead, place wooden nailers around doors and windows to nail into later.
What do you think? Was this article helpful? Ever used steel studs?
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10 Responses to How to Frame with Steel (Metal) Studs
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July 30th, 2008 10:20 am
When are steel studs better, and in your opinion, would you choose to use them again over wood? I don’t really know the benefit of using them – honestly, it seems like a lot more work. Am I totally wrong?
July 30th, 2008 11:21 am
@Corey, I’ll write a full post in the near future but here are some of the benefits: light weight, cut with snips rather than needing a saw, pre-fab holes for utilities, won’t rot (or be eaten by termites) or warp, non-flammable, recycle waste….. I think the install was fairly easy given you have the right tools and a little know-how.
July 30th, 2008 1:31 pm
Thanks for the nice tutorial, Ethan. I think I will need to use steel studs to enclose the chimney brick in my upstairs closet because they aren’t flammable. This will be a helpful reference.
July 30th, 2008 2:01 pm
@Josh, Double check the weight bearing capacity. Wouldn’t want your chimney to fall.
August 6th, 2008 7:32 am
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March 14th, 2009 11:57 am
Ethan, I’ve had to gut my basement and am currently putting it back together. I need to use metal framing, along with cement board instead of drywall to limit mold growth. My son has an allergy to mold. I’m a single mother doing this myself, learning as I go. I’ve had an internal draining system installed and am worried about cracking the cement when I secure the metal track to the floor. What do I do? Also, with a sump pump, is it possible to frame in the sump pump without creating a mold environment? Thank you.
Dory
March 14th, 2009 1:35 pm
@Dory, Sounds like a major project. I’m no expert but you might consider using a powder actuated nailer. Fred wrote a great post about powder actuated nailers and also using a pressure treated bottom board when framing your basement. You could use one pressure treated board and then frame with metal studs.
I’m not sure what will happen with the drainage system. I’ll run this by a few people and see if they have any ideas.
Good luck!
May 7th, 2009 10:48 pm
For cutting metal studs, I found this, a Studchopper, demonstrated on YouTube
May 15th, 2009 11:12 am
I would like to know how to attach cement board to a steel stud.
November 30th, 2009 6:27 pm
@ Ethan, try moisture resistant gypsum board. USG also makes mold resistant gypsum board if you don’t want to use cement board.