Installing a Toilet on a Hardwood Floor
I’m slowly but surely making progress on the new floor. It’s looking really good and I’m excited to see it come together. Soon I’ll be starting the baseboard and quarter-round. I took a slight detour from the floor to get our half bathroom back in “usable” condition. Not having it available was becoming a real problem.
After installing the new floor, the drainpipe flange was about a ¼” lower than the floor. One side of the flange had been broken and the P.O. had used a metal repair slot to fix it.
Tools and Materials to Install the Toilet
- Adjustable wrench
- Grinder or hack saw
- Putty knife
- Caulk & caulk gun
- Extended “No-Seep” wax bowl ring
- Hold down bolts, nuts, plastic “keepers” and washers
How to Install a Toilet over Hardwood Floor
1. Scrape away the old wax ring with the putty knife. The old wax ring will be disgusting. And so will your putty knife when you’re done. If you’re reinstalling an old toilet, check the underside for any wax ring and remove it.
2. Remove the old bolts. They are too short to reuse and many wax ring kits include new bolts. One of my bolts was wedged between the floor and the metal repair slot. I used my trusty grinder to cut the bolt and get it out of the way. Check out my review for information about my grinder.
3. Place the new bolts on opposite sides standing straight up. These will act as guides when you lower the toilet over them. Use the plastic “keepers” to hold the bolts in place.
4. Secure the new extended wax ring. I’ve seen the ring placed on the bottom of the toilet (over the horn) or placed over the toilet flange. Placing it under the toilet is best. That way it is positioned correctly. Remove any packaging and firmly press the new ring to the toilet. Make sure the black, gasket points away from the toilet (and ultimately down the drain).
5. Set your toilet over the flange using the bolts to ensure everything aligns. Gently, press the toilet down to make a tight seal.
6. Put a bolt cover bottom and washer on each bolt and hand tighten both hold-down nuts. Next, use a wrench to tighten them further but be careful not to crack the porcelain base.
7. I used my trusty grinder to cut the bolts and snapped on the bolt covers. You can also use a hack saw.
8. Use some white, silicon caulk where the toilet base meets the floor. This will increase stability. (edited 8/19/2008) This step is somewhat controversial. Some argue that caulking the base means you’ll never know when the toilet is leaking. A good compromise is to caulk the base leaving a gap on the back. Check local code to be sure what is appropriate for you area.
9. Connect the water supply. I use plumbers tape to make sure everything is tight.
The Toilet Flange is ½” - ¾” Lower than the Floor
I was fortunate that my toilet flange was relatively close to the new floor height. For ½” - ¾” differences, use two “No-Seep” wax rings stacked together. I’ve only heard / read about this method, but never actually used it. For larger differences, it’s probably time to call a plumber. The plumber will be able to move the drain to wherever you need.
What do you think? Ever stack two wax rings?
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August 19th, 2008 8:17 am
I’ve used two rings before in our first home. It worked ok but eventually it leaked. They actually make extensions for thicker applications. I think you need at least 3/4″ for it to work properly.
Great post.
August 19th, 2008 8:57 am
Have used double wax rings before as well, they do make a “super” wax ring that will usually get the job done. The best way to solve that problem is to raise the flange using spacers (I usually would cut short pieces of copper tubing or pex tubing and put under flange where screws go to the sub floor) this achieves desired height and better fit for wax ring.
Keith
PS: Had a plumbing contracting company before I got in the fence business.
August 19th, 2008 9:00 am
Oh yeah, forgot to add this:
Leave a spot in the back without the caulk, this allows water to escape so you see it if the flange does leak! Not saying yours will, but it is possible for them to leak later.
August 19th, 2008 9:44 am
Ahh…didn’t notice your step about applying caulk. I do believe that’s not legal/recommended for toilets. If you caulk around the base of the toilet you will not see if it leaks.
August 19th, 2008 10:03 am
Glad to hear other people have used the double wax ring.
About the caulk: I’ve seen a good bit of back and forth. I think caulking the base is a good idea. It provides stability and prevents liquids (and ultimately bacteria) from getting underneath. Leaving an uncaulked area on the backside is a popular compromise and will reveal any major leaks. In my area, plumbers have caulked the base so I doubt it’s illegal (around here, Maryland).
August 19th, 2008 10:34 am
It is definitely not illegal in NC, we never recommended it and if we did do it the “weep hole” left in the back saved future problems.
August 19th, 2008 12:01 pm
I stand corrected….I think that no caulking thing was something in my head. After doing some research it’s actually required in some locations. Seems there are two schools of thought on that issue.
1. Caulk the front to keep urine from getting under the toilet and leave the back open to see if there is a leak.
2. Completely caulk to prevent sewer gas from escaping (I think this is kinda crazy if you have a wax seal!).
So there ya go, learn something new every day, thanks guys!
January 22nd, 2009 3:09 am
Done. And much more secure than a repair flange. Repair flanges are ok, but try to replace the pipe when possible.