Removing a Stipple Ceiling by Sanding (Reducing Stalactites)

Stipple ceilings were very popular in the late 1970s and 1980s.  They are commonly mistaken for popcorn or ’spray on’ ceilings that also have texture.  Both of these ceiling types were installed in this period because they are much less expensive ways of finishing a drywall/sheetrock without mudding and sanding the joints of the drywall smooth, which generally requires more time.  Both ceilings have acoustic properties that allow them to reduce echo in a room (the primary way they were marketed in the 70s and 80s).  Like almost everything from the 70s, they’ve fallen out of favor in the market.

In my opinion, when done correctly, stipple ceilings are the least offensive of the two choices.  I’ve included a picture of both types of ceilings here so you can identify which one you have.  This article applies only to stipple.

Stipple Ceiling (left) | Popcorn Ceiling (right)

Popcorn ceilings are installed by spraying a compound on the ceiling that results in little ‘balls’ (hence the “popcorn” name - looks like popcorn stuck to the ceiling).  Stipple ceilings are created using a stipple applicator, dipping it in a container of drywall mud, and ‘printing’ the ceiling with the applicator tool.  Stipple usually resembles ’stalactites’ and is notorious for popping baloons.  Since stipple ceilings are made from drywall compound, the ’stalactites’ can be removed with sanding (described below).

Important Safety notice:  Be aware that some drywall compounds used in the 70s and even 80s were made with an asbestos.  It is possible that your stipple ceiling has asbestos in it, even though asbestos was largely outlawed from use in 1978.  This is because contractors and builders were allowed to use asbestos-containing supplies they already had on hand.  If you suspect your ceiling contains asbestos, you should get it tested at an asbestos testing lab before sanding it.  Sanding an asbestos ceiling would release large quanties of airborne asbestos - the most dangerous kind.  Asbestos has been known to cause asbestosis and mesothelioma.

Technique for Sanding Stipple Ceilings

1.  Use an electric, light-duty sander with a dust bag.  Slowly move back and forth over an area using 80 grit sandpaper.   It is important to purchase a sander with a wide pad that you can hold over your head for some period of time.  Orbital sanders work best [see our recommendation below].  You can either choose to sand the ceiling totally smooth, or you can “knock down” the stipple to a more subtle pattern.  If you like the “knocked down” look, it is fast and easy to produce and it is MUCH easier to get to look good.   If you are planning to sand the ceiling flat, you should first use an electric sander to knock down the ceiling, and then a poll sander with 120 grit, then with 200 grit  to finish the job.  It is too easy to scar the drywall paper with an electric sander, so stop after the 80 grit.

We recommend the DEWALT D26451K 3 Amp 5-Inch Random Orbit Sander for for this job.   You can also purchase the assorted sandpapers pack (10 Each Of 80/100/120/150/220) which will give you everything you need for the ceiling job, and will give you extra for future jobs.

2.  Use a poll sander.  This will save you from holding the electric sander over your head, but will require ALOT more sanding to get the job done.  You should look for 60 grit paper to start.  If you are satisfied with “knocking down” the stipple, you can stop with 60 grit when the subtle pattern looks good.  If you want a smooth finished ceiling, you’ll need to move to 120 grit, then to 200 grit.

Here’s a picture of what a stipple ceiling looks like after an electric sander has been used to create a more subtle pattern.  This look is great, because it still hides faults in the drywall, but doesn’t feel like it’s “coming down on you” like traditional stipple.

As with all jobs like this, you should try the technique in an area that’s not visible from the living space, like inside a closet.

Popcorn Ceiling photo courtesy of tmlens.