Removing a Stipple Ceiling by Sanding (Reducing Stalactites)
Stipple ceilings were very popular in the late 1970s and 1980s. They are commonly mistaken for popcorn or ’spray on’ ceilings that also have texture. Both of these ceiling types were installed in this period because they are much less expensive ways of finishing a drywall/sheetrock without mudding and sanding the joints of the drywall smooth, which generally requires more time. Both ceilings have acoustic properties that allow them to reduce echo in a room (the primary way they were marketed in the 70s and 80s). Like almost everything from the 70s, they’ve fallen out of favor in the market.
In my opinion, when done correctly, stipple ceilings are the least offensive of the two choices. I’ve included a picture of both types of ceilings here so you can identify which one you have. This article applies only to stipple.
Stipple Ceiling (left) | Popcorn Ceiling (right)
Popcorn ceilings are installed by spraying a compound on the ceiling that results in little ‘balls’ (hence the “popcorn” name – looks like popcorn stuck to the ceiling). Stipple ceilings are created using a stipple applicator, dipping it in a container of drywall mud, and ‘printing’ the ceiling with the applicator tool. Stipple usually resembles ’stalactites’ and is notorious for popping baloons. Since stipple ceilings are made from drywall compound, the ’stalactites’ can be removed with sanding (described below).
Important Safety notice: Be aware that some drywall compounds used in the 70s and even 80s were made with an asbestos. It is possible that your stipple ceiling has asbestos in it, even though asbestos was largely outlawed from use in 1978. This is because contractors and builders were allowed to use asbestos-containing supplies they already had on hand. If you suspect your ceiling contains asbestos, you should get it tested at an asbestos testing lab before sanding it. Sanding an asbestos ceiling would release large quanties of airborne asbestos – the most dangerous kind. Asbestos has been known to cause asbestosis and mesothelioma.
Technique for Sanding Stipple Ceilings
1. Use an electric, light-duty sander with a dust bag. Slowly move back and forth over an area using 80 grit sandpaper. It is important to purchase a sander with a wide pad that you can hold over your head for some period of time. Orbital sanders work best [see our recommendation below]. You can either choose to sand the ceiling totally smooth, or you can “knock down” the stipple to a more subtle pattern. If you like the “knocked down” look, it is fast and easy to produce and it is MUCH easier to get to look good. If you are planning to sand the ceiling flat, you should first use an electric sander to knock down the ceiling, and then a poll sander with 120 grit, then with 200 grit to finish the job. It is too easy to scar the drywall paper with an electric sander, so stop after the 80 grit.
Most Random Orbit Sanders will work for this job. You can also purchase the assorted sandpapers pack (10 Each Of 80/100/120/150/220) which will give you everything you need for the ceiling job, and will give you extra for future jobs.
2. Use a poll sander. This will save you from holding the electric sander over your head, but will require ALOT more sanding to get the job done. You should look for 60 grit paper to start. If you are satisfied with “knocking down” the stipple, you can stop with 60 grit when the subtle pattern looks good. If you want a smooth finished ceiling, you’ll need to move to 120 grit, then to 200 grit.
Here’s a picture of what a stipple ceiling looks like after an electric sander has been used to create a more subtle pattern. This look is great, because it still hides faults in the drywall, but doesn’t feel like it’s “coming down on you” like traditional stipple.
As with all jobs like this, you should try the technique in an area that’s not visible from the living space, like inside a closet.
Popcorn Ceiling photo courtesy of tmlens.
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16 Responses to Removing a Stipple Ceiling by Sanding (Reducing Stalactites)
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May 6th, 2008 10:58 am
[...] The fine folks over at One Project Closer, a blog co-written by two married couples from Baltimore County, Maryland, tackled this very subject in a post about sanding away stipple ceilings. [...]
September 5th, 2008 7:31 am
Fred,
I hadn’t read this post previously but I had a question/suggestion.
Are you trying to completely remove the texture or just knock it down? If you’re trying to completely remove it I have a suggestion you may want to try.
I’m not sure this works with the stipple ceiling but it definitely works with popcorn ceilings. Use a spray mister to wet the ceiling in small areas, let it sit, then you can scrape the popcorn off with a putty knife. This may also work with the stipple depending on the drywall compound used. Obviously if it’s plaster that won’t work.
September 5th, 2008 5:25 pm
Todd – Yeah, we tried that. Doesn’t work so well on stipple, despite claims to the contrary on at least one other site. The technique works miracles on popcorn ceilings though. I could imagine that it would also depends on the brand/mix of drywall patch compound used to create the texture.
Our experience was as follows: (1) You cannot get the stipple wet enough to dislodge it from the drywall without also soaking the drywall to a damaging extent. Forget a spray bottle, you need a hose. (2) it’s nearly impossible to scrape stipple away from the drywall without tearing the drywall paper. One site suggested filing down the edges of your scraper, which is fine, but then it has trouble removing the stipple.
While messy, the method I describe here is actually quite fast in comparison to the water method… which I would reserve for spray-on ceilings.
September 17th, 2008 7:01 am
[...] week I picked up a Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander to assist us with sanding down the stipped ceiling in our kitchen. Painted stipple is entirely too resistant to hand sanding, and even a 1/4 sheet [...]
October 19th, 2008 5:27 pm
To Remove Stipple Rent a Porter cable Drywall Sander And A Good shop Vac with the Bags So the filters do Not clog Up So fast And You can take your ceiling To what ever you Like Pretty easy. And Pretty Much Dust free!! If you want to get it really Slick Use some Course Floor sanding Paper for finishing Floors and cut it To Fit the Pads for the Sander this will reduce your Time On the sander and Then If you Have acess to The drywall Finish boxes You can Coat the ceiling this way And get a Pretty Nice finish. Some sanding will be required After the Box Applied mud Has dried Again the Porter Cable drywall Sander will do Nice. Dont Tell the rental company You will be using Course floor Paper They May frown On this But it works Just A Little hard on the sander. I Have used My Sander Many times this way With No Ill Effects. Happy Sanding.
December 7th, 2008 1:24 pm
We definitely have a popcorn ceiling NOT stipple. Our home was built in 2000, popcorn ceilings unpainted.
Can I use a drywall sander with a vacuum attachment to sand off the popcorn? How well would that work? Any drawbacks?
I have done the spray bottle technique and it went pretty well however I would prefer to use a drywall sander with vacuum if that will work just as well.
Thanks in advance for your reply.
December 7th, 2008 10:16 pm
Donna,
For popcorn, you’re better off wetting down the whole thing and scraping it. Built in 2000, you’ve got no worries of asbestos. I didn’t know ANYONE was spraying popcorn in 2000! There are a few other sites out there with specific instructions for popcorn… just google “remove popcorn ceiling” and you should get the answers.
Sanding popcorn probably won’t get you where you want to be (e.g. flat ceiling) … at least not fast.
December 7th, 2008 10:35 pm
I Have never tried To sand popcorn. I Have Seen clients struggle with the wetting Scraping Task I Have the sander and All In My Work Tools so If you Have Access to a sander And shop vac I would Certainly Give it a try. Probably easier than sanding Stipple . Again I Have never had to remove popcorn As It was Never very Popular In My Area. My gut Says Sand It And See what Happens
Pat
December 8th, 2008 10:00 pm
Pat – Popcorn goes on ALOT thicker than most stipples, and the spray on that goes over the “popcorn balls” is not drywall compound. My guess is that sanding popcorn yields significantly more dust than stipple sanding, but I’m no expert. I haven’t seen anyone else online sand popcorn, but I haven’t looked much.
Donna, please let us know what you decide and how it goes.
December 8th, 2008 10:12 pm
Hello
I asked My Drywall Guy today What he does as he does alot of this stuff. He said That Water Works best If it has not been Painted. If its Painted which he ran Into Once he did use the porter cable sander And shop Vac Method I mention above And it Did Do Ok. So Try the water First. As to the dust If You Do Have to use the sand methos rent a Porter cable or similar drywall Sander with The vac and With Practice you can sand about anything Off with Little dust. Its Really All About What U Want to do and how The Sander is Not to hard to use But It does take arm and shoulder Strength. I Hope it goes well For You.
Neither method Is very Easy.
Hope Some of this will Assist You Or anyone Doing this
PAt
December 9th, 2008 11:28 am
Thanks for your input everyone. I found a tool rental place nearby and I am going to go ask them and see exactly what the sander + vacuum device looks like and then make my decision.
BTW, they are still spraying popcorn in 2008 on the new homes being built right now. Noticed I said built not bought. I live in St. Louis, MO.
Here’s a tip that might help when it comes to using the water removal technique of popcorn.
1. I used a garden sprayer with extremely hot water and a little TSP thrown in.
2. I did not use a putty knife but instead used an angled knock down tool that I purchased for $12. This was super because the handle is 2 ft long and the knockdown blade is about 2 ft wide. This covered the room much faster plus because of the handle and my height (5′ 8″) I didn’t have to use a ladder as our ceilings are 8′. Yipee yahoo!!
Thanks again and I’ll let you know if I choose sanding how it goes.
Have a Merry Christmas!!
December 9th, 2008 9:01 pm
Hello Donna
My Drywall guy Said that If You use warm water with Some Soap In it it will Soften the stuff Better than TSP. He has been fooling with this stuff for 40 years so i think he Has Alot of experience. As to the Popcorn Still used I Do Not think it is In the Atlanta Area That i know of Whats been Used in The Homes I Build Is either Slick ceilings or a Knock down finish On Ceilings Or ceilings and walls. I cant imagine That Anyone would Ask for popcorn as its pretty Much Disliked By most Same as Stipple.
I like the Sander only because I dont have to Wait for anything to happen or loosen.And Most of the mess is In the Shop Vac bag So its easy to dispose. Good Luck
Merry Christmas. What ever you choose I Know the result is worth the effort and Will increase your Homes appeal.
Pat
March 7th, 2010 9:28 am
REDOING STIPPLE CEILINGS:
Moved from South California to S. Carolina. 1977 house cursed with stipple ceiling.
Here, the clever contractors mix paint into the mud. This allows it to hold it color without the added labor of painting. Drawback–it’s no longer water soluble. If the house is occupied it is impossible to contain the dust.
I bit off a smaller room (entry), went to H.D. and purchased quarter in drywall sheets to cover the ceiling. This is of course followed by masking off corners, taping, mudding (3-4 times), repeated sanding,priming and painting. Don’t forget to try to isolate the room, removing all, and I mean all furniture, carpeting, pictures, etc. Have fun!
My suggestions. If you are hell bent on removing it, start with a small room, or, live with it, or pay someone to do it while you take a trip.
Did anything good come out of the building industries in the late 70’s?
April 5th, 2010 11:23 pm
I just used the porter cable sander with 80 grit on popcorn and it blasted it right off.
May 4th, 2010 12:07 pm
Warning to this site management:
NEVER suggest to any do-it-yourselfer to remove any popcorn style ceilings…unless they can be sure there is NO asbestos involved!
Even though popcorn ceilings were very big even after the laws changed, California and many other areas had them even from the early 50’s. They were usually asbestos and friable asbestos at that (the worst kind). As long as undisturbed they are fine but is handled they are dangerous!
Any suggestion that someone do any such work themselves creates a direct liability to this site and those who suggest without stating the dangers.
Site ADMINISTRATOR: Please review this site well and make sure to have specific statements as to material dangers, possible need for testing etc. in the article, the dangers are very real for a DIY person.
If there is any question as to whether asbestos was used, then the ONLY reasonable solution is for a home owner to actually encapsulate the asbestos. The best (cheapest) method is to spray paint with a light coat of latex paint to secure and lock in the popcorn. After that use 1/4 inch sheet rock and long sheet rock screws to secure it. This will mean taping, leveling and finishing the ceiling, however it is safe, permanent and cleaner than removal of dangerous materials like asbestos.
One further caution…if you have it tested and find asbestos, then you must always report this in any sale, if you encapsulate and do not know for sure you need not disclose asbestos as you do not KNOW that you have asbestos. Much better for a sale of a property.
Thank you
May 4th, 2010 11:15 pm
DJ, you’re being melodramatic. There is a warning in the post. Asbestos is dangerous and must be addressed properly. The post says that. Read the important safety information in the middle of it. Your solution is substantially more expensive if there’s no asbestos in the ceiling in the first place, so the decision on whether to test is a complex one. Note that the ethics you propose, “don’t test so that you don’t know so that you don’t have to disclose” are dubious at best.