Schluter Shower System
Last winter, I finished remodeling my master bathroom. What started out as a plan to replace the vanity quickly became an entirely new bathroom. What happened? One day into the work we discovered mold growing on parts of the drywall behind the sink, and a small leak.
But let’s cut to the chase. Once the bathroom had been gutted and we began to prep for the new tile, Jocie and I heard about the Schluter Shower System. Basically, it is a kit that provides materials for waterproofing and grading your new shower.
The Kerdi membrane is a polyethylene mat used to waterproof your shower. It goes up similar to wall paper using a thin set mortar and is rather easy to install. They even provide pre-fab corners for the tough spots. The only stipulations are to maintain a two inch overlap and keep it as wrinkle free as possible.
When this was demonstrated for contractors, they lined a cardboard box and filled it with water. Six hours later, the box was still dry. Another big plus: even if water gets past the tile, the membrane will channel that water to the drain. No more mold for me!
The other major advantage to this kit was the pre-sloped shower tray. This eliminated having to poor concrete and try to slope the floor myself. It’s lightweight and also goes down on a bed of mortar.
My shower is 5 foot long (used to be a tub) about 30 inches deep and tiled 7 feet high. The kit (membrane, corners, shower tray, curb and drain) cost me about $470 from a local distributor.
What do you think? Is it worth the cost? Is poring a shower floor easier than I think? Has anyone else used these products?
Image courtesy of Tina Lawson
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20 Responses to Schluter Shower System
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July 25th, 2008 10:17 am
Schluter products are great! I’ve used their floor underlayment products several times and it’s the only product I’d use now. Great post!
July 25th, 2008 10:26 am
I’ve been wanting to hear about re-modelers’ experience with the Kerdi system because it seems like a winner to me. In NY hot-mopping a shower base is still considered the gold standard and I have real problems with this method. I went with a good quality mti-whirlpool base in my last bath remodel simply to avoid the hot mop job. That was a whole lot more $$$ than $470!
I also think it would cost me more to pay someone to build a traditional shower base than this and I expect the Kerdi to have less problems with failure down the line. I’m glad I waited until this system was available before starting on the master shower as it gives me the option to have a tiled base with a simpler install.
July 25th, 2008 12:19 pm
@Modernemama, I’ve had a great experience with the Kerdi membrane. It was recommended by a contractor I know who helped me install it. I had my shower tiled by another contractor who recognized it right away and had only positive things to say when I asked his opinion.
July 25th, 2008 1:30 pm
I haven’t used one of the systems so I can’t compare. I used concrete backerboard, with a manually cut vinyl membrane on the floor, lower walls and curb. Making a graded floor for under the membrane was easy enough. I figured out where the top would be on each wall based on a constant slope (1/4″ per foot) from the drain and drew lines. The only thing I didn’t like about the whole process is the adhesive for the membrane is *nasty*. Even with ventilation going and a filtered mask, I got a bit light-headed working with it.
The Kerdi stuff looks pretty nice to work with. If I ever do a custom shower again (not likely any time soon) I’ll look into it.
October 6th, 2008 4:32 pm
I’m beginning a complete bathroom remodel, and will probably go with the “Schluter Shower System” for all the reasons all of you have mentioned. My only concern is the Kerdi drain. As the bathroom is on the second floor I don’t have easy access to the drain waste pipes from below. The instructions for the drain seem a little complicated. Anyone have any thoughts or experience with the kerdi drain system?
October 6th, 2008 6:34 pm
@Richard, I didn’t have access to the waste pipes from below either. So we just cut out a portion of the subfloor to give the plumber a little room to work. He reorganized the waste pipe a little and extended it. Then we replaced the piece of subfloor. Bottom line: couldn’t have done it without calling a plumber.
November 19th, 2008 11:32 pm
@Richard
If you are good with tools and reading directions you can do this.
I was able to do the “no access” installation. If you need to move pipes YES you need a plumber. If the drain is in a center (and some off center) you may be able to use the system. The bases can be cut with a handsaw.
I did not buy the system until after spending some time on the web site. When I did buy was confident I could do the job.
Schluter.com has incredibly detailed information and instructions including videos. I watched them all and read everything. You will have to watch for “new” links on different pages. I did a LOT of bookmarking until I found all the instructions of every application I though I might need. It seems like they have cleaned that process up some.
Once you buy the system it has great instructions as well.
I have recommended this system to friends and plan on using it again myself.
December 26th, 2008 6:46 pm
I’m using the shower kit system and am looking for the right thinset. I know the product calls for an unmodified thinset, but all I can find are polymer modified, fortified modified or thinset that says nothing at all about being modified. Is the last reference the one I’m suppose to use?? Also, should the thinset be sanded or unsanded?
Thank you.
December 28th, 2008 12:24 am
@ Vaden
I went to a tile store to get the unmodified thinset, the major ‘box’ stores only had thinset with addatives. try your super pages
March 20th, 2009 11:18 pm
I’m remodeling my bathroom like the price of the schluter system. I’m totally nervous about using sheetrock on the wall instead of cement board. Any comments on this ????? thx lynne
March 29th, 2009 12:41 pm
Hey Lynne, Why are you using sheetrock instead of Cement board? Does schluter prefer you to use sheetrock??? We are about to hang our cement board – so if this is the case i need to know asap.
Also i have some queries about the subfloor – we too removed the tub. What do we put over the tongue & Groove subflloor? We purchased wonderboard and plan to lay plywood down 1st due to a little bit of springyness to the subfloor. any thoughts….
We just ordered our Schluter Shower System yesterday.
April 9th, 2009 2:32 pm
4-9-’09….2:28 p.m.
I am interested in the Shluter system SHOWER BASE. I live in
Bainbridge Twp, Ohio (a suburb of Cleveland) and I need a telephone number
of two…preferably in the Solon-Chagrin Falls-Aurora-Bedford Hts area where
I can go and SEE this. We are renovating our shower.
Thanks,
ALFRED KANAGARAJ
April 25th, 2009 11:36 am
I’m starting on a shower project and lookiing at the Schluter System. The only part of the install that seems a bit tricky to me is the shower base. The dimensions on my base are 48X32, so I’m looking at cutting down the 60X32 tray by taking six inches off each end lengthwise (in order to keep the drain in the center). The problem that leaves me with is the height of the first score of tiles will be inconsistent. I could bury the long ends of the tray in mortar to build it up to the same height as the short sides, but if I gotta do that, then why not just forget about the prefab tray and mortar the whole thing. Are there any problems in burying some portions of the prefab tray in mortar? I have easy access to the drain from below in my basement. Any comments appreciated.
Mke Peck
Kansas City, MO
May 21st, 2009 8:21 pm
i just purchased the schluter system and we are haveing trouble with the adhesion of the cornerstrips to the hardee backerboard. We are using an unmodified thin set mortar, but the membrane is not adherering. we think the backerboard is absorbing the moisture from the thinset too quickly. Has anyone experienced this? Should we wet down the backerboard first?
Did you use the un modified thinset to attach the tile or did you use a regular modified thinset? I have concerns with the adhesion of the tile to the membrane.
May 26th, 2009 6:58 pm
I have read on other forums that wetting down the back board is important to prevent the thinset from drying too quickly. I just installed my shower pan yesterday – it seemed easy enough but i am a little nervous as the floor was about an1/8″ unlevel and so i tried to compensate by putting extra thinset on that side…..I think i may have messed things up. any insights?
October 3rd, 2009 9:26 am
I am installing the Schluter shower system myself and it doesn’t get much easier than this…
Measure, measure measure and measure one more time.. Then cut it with a blade or regular saw.
Pray it fits close to your measurements…
Get unmodified thinset mortar at a tile store..Home Depot and Lowe’s don;t have it.
any plumbing work needed?? here’s a hint…ask someone who is more familiar with plumbing than you!!! It will help you out big time…!!!
I am working in a tight space. Had to cut out subfloor to makle hole and some access for the drain plumbing hook up.. Not Fun.. Buy a sawsall….
Have a friend who knows plumbing help you out here unless you have an obvious simplistic connection that works just perfect.. Otherwise call a friend in. Plumber if you want to spend the bucks and have it done professionally.
As for tiling……Get help from a friend again!! At least for the proper starting points!! Crucial and very important…This shit ain;t cheap so get help…
I am very handy, but still had questions along the way.. ASK questions before proceeding with plumbing and tiling…
Just my take….The schulter system is awesome when done right!!!!! You simply can’t beat it in the long run…Think LONG term here guys.. That’s why I purchased the system…No worrying about proper cement mixture, cracking and other crap.. I am not a masn, plumber or tilie guy.. Just handy!!
Good luck!! Frank
January 6th, 2010 7:43 pm
We had had massive problems with Schluters Kerdi and Ditra, thier supply lines, install advice. They never take care of claims. It is always “Installer error”.
They tell you to use unmodified thinsets unless you purchase thier ditra set. it is very expensive and it is “slightly” modified. If you do use modified you have no warranty and unmodified is not a secure enough bond.
Just wait a few years and start watching the unmodified thinsets degrade. The Kerdi will start falling off the walls everwhere!
In my 28 years in the trade the best thing that ever hit the market was latex modified thinsets. It gives a stronger bond and greater flexibilty.
We sold over 1/2 million worth of Schluter over the last two years and we kicked them out after they told us to keep our opinion to ourselves.
We had customers calling us telling us the kerdi was falling off the walls and the ditra was releasing. I know it was the unmodified thinset. I was bound by Schluter and could not tell them to use modified or it would voided thier warranty.
We do not operate like that so we gave them the boot!
We know of 50 other suppliers that have removed Schluter form thier line as well.
They never honor warranties that we can find, it is never thier fault or thier installl advice.
We now have a line called ProVa Mat good Canadian company and you can use modified thinsets.
You must have that mechanical bond to the substrate behind it, unmodified thinset is too weak!
January 11th, 2010 12:33 pm
What would happen if you used a modified morter, other than not getting warranty protection?
January 12th, 2010 1:04 am
my understanding is it takes a lot longer to cure/dry. Schluter wants contractors to use the product so they have to take long dry times out of the equation,hence ‘no modified thinset’. So from where i stand, if you wait a weekend to let the thinset cure under the kerdi that would be fine. Has anyone seen the HGTV show ‘Holmes Homes’ he just did an entire bathroom with Schluter and I wonder if he used modified or unmodified? Schluter: if you’re listening you might want to pay closer attention to who is promoting your product. Stop by Home Depot too and education the staff there while you’re at it! I called Schluter’s office and asked questions – go to the source – there are a lot of people that have an opinion with no knowledge.
February 6th, 2010 2:21 pm
It does take longer to cure about 12-24 hours total. But after spending 28 years in the trade that is much faster than the three days it took mudset shower pans to set.
When we would install a mudbed it took 24 hours from start to finish, then we let it set for 48 hours, we then came back and poured a 5 gallon bucket of water through to find any low spots, if their were low spots we did the prep and then waited another 24 hours before we started the tile.
You have many things at work when you are dealing with a concrete base product.
1. Curing, concrete does not dry it cures, do you realize that in the Hoover Dam there is concrete that has not cured yet and it was finished in 1935.
What is our hurry? Must we compromise speed for quality.
I am safe in saying there was no umodified concrete in Hoover Dam, the concrete was modified with Fly Ash.
2. Latex additives: Latex Modified concretes are use in high strength flexible applications, like bridges,buildings.roads etc, It gives concrete strength but takes away the brittle component.
The LMC is proven to be superior in its corrosion resistance compared to conventional concrete.
At our last Schluter seminar before we dropped the line, the question was posed: “Your product is so expensive how do we justify the cost to our clients?”
The answer given: “Tell them to use unmodified thinset.It is cheaper”
So now your are being told by Schluter to use an inferior concrete application just to show a lower cost because their price is so high.
We cannot agree with type of business marketing, it is much easier to be truthful.
We offer opinion with knowledge, 28 years of a second generation installer knowledge base.
Stop by our website, you will save money and get a job that will not degrade or corrode.