Tool Shed – Powder-actuated Nailers
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Last week I wrote about the pneumatic nailer. While that is perhaps the most useful tool I’ve encountered in my home improvement life, there is at least one type of job that the adventurous improver will need more power to complete. That job is fixing framed walls to a concrete slab, or any other job where you must fasten wood tightly to poured concrete or block. For fixing walls to a slab, it’s easy enough to build the framed walls on the ground but how are you going to fix the bottom board to the concrete slab? Attempting to drive the bottom board in place by hand would be very challenging – particularly if you’re working with concrete that has been curing for years.
That’s where a powder actuated tool comes in handy. These tools are made by a few different vendors, with Home Depot carrying the most popular brand: Ramset. There are a number of different calibers and types of tools, including semi-automatic guns with trigger-firing mechanisms, and ones that you must hit with a hammer to drive (the latter is significantly cheaper at the big box stores).
After you buy the tool, you’ll need to select the right powder charge for the job, which depends on what material you’re fastening into what other material. Fortunately, vendors color-code these to make it easy. Most of the tools have a guide on the box you buy the tool in; and I know the Home Depot near here as a whole display set up to help.
In the introduction to my basement finishing project video, you can see the result of using one of these tools to fix the bottom board of my walls to the slab.
More Information: Jeff Krotzer over at Ezine Articles writes even more about these tools; how to select one, and what to look for.
Unrelated note: You may have been expecting to see the planning article I promised as a follow up to last week’s The Mythical Two Day Project. Well, a two-day project got in my way. That article should come tomorrow.
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7 Responses to Tool Shed – Powder-actuated Nailers
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January 22nd, 2008 11:58 am
Sometime this year, I’ll be starting a basement remodel (including adding a jacuzzi to compensate for my 5×7 bathroom upstairs!) I’ll be tuning into your basement videos for inspiration.
Also, thanks for stopping by The Box House
January 22nd, 2008 2:47 pm
A jacuzzi in the basement sounds like quite a project! Will ths jacuzzi be part of a bathroom or a big hot tub type for multiple folks?
January 23rd, 2008 5:30 am
Hey Fred,
Thanks for the positive feedback on our blog.
To answer your question: We had to lay plywood sheathing on the floor in order to raise the floor approximately 3/4″. Because we are on a slab foundation, I had to devise a plan to run power to the island and island cooktop. Short of chiseling a channel in the foundation, it was much easier to simply lay plywood directly on the floor. I was able to leave a 1″ channel space that allowed me enough room for one 12/2 and one 8/3 cable.
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I purchased a Ramset RS22 and it made the job a breeze. I used yellow charges with 1 1/2″ nails. My only complaint was after about 40-50 charges, my hands became sore from the recoil. And, yes, I wore gloves
After applying heavy duty construction adhesive (PL375) to each board, I placed nails about 12-14 inches apart. I gave the glue about 2-3 days to drive and then walked around bouncing a golf ball on the sub-floor looking for hallow spots. I did find a few and added nails as needed.
Overall, I loved the Ramset and would recommend one. A must have for the DIYer!
January 23rd, 2008 7:21 am
4KM-
I can imagine that after 40-50 shots with the ramset, you would be quite tired! Did you think of the golf ball technique on your own or did you find that on a site? Its a very nifty idea.
Everyone Else-
Check out 4KM’s new slate tile floor in their kitchen. It looks great.
January 23rd, 2008 9:48 am
40-50 charges took about 1 – 1.5 hours. It took three days to complete the sub-flooring and approximately 180-200 nails! Ouch!
The golf ball technique: Like all persepctive home buyers, you have a housing inspector go through to “certify” the house. I watch him use a golf ball on the concrete sidewalk and driveway, checking to see if the concrete and pavement was still solid. I figured the theory should be the same with the sub-flooring.
July 14th, 2009 6:47 pm
Powder actuated nailers are terrific and we used one to frame our basement project. Now however a few years later, I’d like to remove some of the floor track we shot down. (open back up an area that had been framed in as a storage closet). How do I get that back up?
July 17th, 2009 9:22 am
missLaura,
Prybar worked for us, although it’s interesting to note that the manufacturers say these fasteners are “permanent” meaning, essentially, that destruction is required to remove them. They do get very tight, so a long prybar (to get leverage) is probably your best bet.