I’ve mentioned in previous posts that Jocie and I are planning to install hardwoods. Well, we are finally starting to make some progress. This past Saturday we took a trip to Lumber Liquidators. Here are a few things we considered while making our choice.

Hardness

Different types of wood result in different levels of hardness. No wood is impervious but some resist dents better than others. Brazilian Walnut is one of the hardest woods available. While American Cherry is extremely soft. Some people prefer the de-stressed look while others want their floor to stay as dent free as possible. This picture compares wood hardness and stability levels. Click on it to enlarge.

Finish

You can purchase woods prefinished or unfinished and each has certain benefits. Unfinished wood can be stained to match existing woodwork. But it’s an additional step and it takes time for the smell to dissipate. Prefinished woods will have a uniform factory stain that often includes a warranty.

The hardwoods we checked out all had an oxide based finish. Oxide finishes have two benefits over polyurethane finishes. First, it will help strengthen the wood and keep it dent free. Second, polyurethane can yellow over time.

Board Width and Length

• Strips. Strips are the typical, linear tongue and groove. They range in width between 1.5″ to 2.25″.

• Planks. Planks are very similar to Strips but have different widths. Most start around 3″ and increase in 1″ increments.

• Parquet. Parquet floors are hardwoods arranged into a pattern, usually a geometric shape of some kind.

• Length. Typical installations incorporate boards with different lengths and are laid with a lot of variation. One alternative is using boards all the same length.

Wood Grades

Wood can come in different grades: Rustic, Natural and Select. Rustic grade contains the most irregularities. It will have varying grain patterns and plenty of knots visible. Again, some people want this look so it mostly comes down to preference. Select grade is the most uniform. This wood should have the least knots and grain variations.

Top Choices

So after our trip we narrowed it down to a few choices. Check out the pictures.

Brazilian Cherry Select / Brazilian Mesquite Select / Brazilian Walnut Select

What do you think? What would you choose? What did you install in your own home?

This week’s Before and After is brought to you from our old and new home office. 

When we looked for a house three years ago, one of the criteria for our purchase included the home having at least four bedrooms… One for us, two more for kids or house guests, and the remaining one for a home office.  We had a home office in our prior home and had grown accustomed to sitting in it for hours working on our computers (which both happened to be desktops).   This year, I upgraded my 7-year-old PC to a new Dell Vostro 1400 laptop, and all of the sudden Kim and I found ourselves trading the laptop back and forth on the first level.  Rarely did we walk upstairs to use our desktops.  In fact, we only did when the other person was on the laptop and we were forced to.  This led to the purchase of a second, identical laptop for Kim.  The office started seeming more like Siberia.  There’s were still great resources there, but who really wanted to visit.  We’d much prefer to sit in front of the TV with laptops on … laps.

At the same time we began to find our home office too confining, we received news from friends, BJ and Kimberly, that they will be moving back to the area from Scotland so BJ can pursue a Ph.D. (Congrats, bud!).  They are planning to stay with us for a few weeks/months while they shop for a place in this area and get established in jobs, etc.  Since Lori is already living with us due to the house fire and we’re not sure when she’ll be able to move back into the townhome, it seemed like the signs were all pointing in the same direction: downsize the home office to make room for more people.

Kim and I had talked about moving the computers to the first level of our home once the kids were big enough to use them, anyway.  The catalyst of more house guests just sped up the move.  We started combing Craigslist for a computer armoire that would house all of the computer stuff in one place, and would fit in with the rustic/country look we like.  Since we like using our laptops on the couch, and the kids can use them sitting at the dining room table, we didn’t need to be able to work at the armoire sitting down.  We found a woman about 30 miles away in Crofton selling a Pier 1 Imports solid pine armoire in very good condition for $50.00.  We contacted her, met her at her storage unit, and hauled it away in our minivan on the same day.  (This armoire retailed on clearance for $300.00.  Yep, we LOVE Craigslist).

The pictures below show the result.  We’re still in the process of cleaning out the office upstairs and Craigslisting lots of things we no longer need.  We’re also still looking for where exactly to store our file cabinet, the only other essential thing from the office.  Our master bedroom closet is one option for the short term.  Once we finish the basement, we’ll either build or buy a pine file cabinet to go with the armoire.

Before (the Home Office):

After (Office in an Armoire):

Now it’s your turn!  If you’ve had any great Before and After successes recently, link in your posts below (and be sure they have a link back here).

Just as I began to pen this article I realized that my before, during and after pictures were accidentally deleted from my camera.  I was able to take the replacement “after” picture to the right, but the rest will be up to your imagination.  I’ll try to be vivid in the description.

A few weekends back we poured the second area of self leveling cement over the ThermoTile radiant heating wire mats in the basement.  Prior to the pour, we secured the heating wire to the slab with hot glue every 16″ on the loop ends to ensure the wire did not protrude from the self leveling cement after the pour.  Overall, the pour worked great - all the heating wires were fully encapsulated. 

After the cement hardened, I noticed one small wire protruding from the surface about 3/4″.  (Sorry, this is where a picture would have been helpful).  The offending wire was the end of one of the temperature probes that is embedded in the cement between two parallel heating wires.  The probe has leads that run back to the baseplate in the wall and then up to the thermostat. 

I followed the steps below to repair the wire, which I’m sure would work just as well for a heating wire as it did for the probe.  I haven’t finished step 5.  I’ll fill in the hole with self leveling cement when we pour the 3rd area of the basement a few weekends from now.

Steps to Reseat the Heating Wire

1) Carefully chisel out the self-leveling mortar around the wire, ensuring the you don’t cut or nick the wire.  Severing the connection in the wire will render the probe or heating element useless.  This would be very costly to fix. 

2) Continue chiseling out the cement out until you reach the spot on the wire that is firmly fastened to the slab.  Ensure that you have created a large enough hole to refill it will self-leveling mortar or thinset easily.

3) Use hot glue to re-attach the wire to the slab.

4) Prime the area in and around the repair with the appopriate primer for your self-leveling cement (e.g. LevelQuik Primer).

5) Fill in the area with additional self-leveling cement or thinset.

What do you think?  Have you ever run into this situation with self-leveling cement or radiant heating?  Was this article helpful to you?

Kim spent many (many!) hours this week pressure washing our deck to prepare it for sealing sometime next week.  We had the deck installed last year, and the contractor recommended we wait 6-8 months before pressure washing and sealing it.  Unfortunately, some of the wood has cracked over the winter (we’re now questioning his advice).  Perhaps it would have been better to seal immediately.

This picture shows how even 8 months of weather on an untreated pine deck can begin to grey the pressure treated wood.  Fortunately, a power washer with the right tip and right technique can take the grey right out of the wood without damaging the boards.

The complete details of how to properly pressure wash a deck will be in a later post, but for now, here’s a side-by-side before and after picture of Kim’s hard work:

Before and After:

Now it’s your turn!  Link in your Before and After pictures here, and then leave a comment below. 

(Note, if you link in a B&A picture on your own site, please ensure that post has a link back here).

Stipple ceilings were very popular in the late 1970s and 1980s.  They are commonly mistaken for popcorn or ’spray on’ ceilings that also have texture.  Both of these ceiling types were installed in this period because they are much less expensive ways of finishing a drywall/sheetrock without mudding and sanding the joints of the drywall smooth, which generally requires more time.  Both ceilings have acoustic properties that allow them to reduce echo in a room (the primary way they were marketed in the 70s and 80s).  Like almost everything from the 70s, they’ve fallen out of favor in the market.

In my opinion, when done correctly, stipple ceilings are the least offensive of the two choices.  I’ve included a picture of both types of ceilings here so you can identify which one you have.  This article applies only to stipple.

Stipple Ceiling (left) | Popcorn Ceiling (right)

Popcorn ceilings are installed by spraying a compound on the ceiling that results in little ‘balls’ (hence the “popcorn” name - looks like popcorn stuck to the ceiling).  Stipple ceilings are created using a stipple applicator, dipping it in a container of drywall mud, and ‘printing’ the ceiling with the applicator tool.  Stipple usually resembles ’stalactites’ and is notorious for popping baloons.  Since stipple ceilings are made from drywall compound, the ’stalactites’ can be removed with sanding (described below).

Important Safety notice:  Be aware that some drywall compounds used in the 70s and even 80s were made with an asbestos.  It is possible that your stipple ceiling has asbestos in it, even though asbestos was largely outlawed from use in 1978.  This is because contractors and builders were allowed to use asbestos-containing supplies they already had on hand.  If you suspect your ceiling contains asbestos, you should get it tested at an asbestos testing lab before sanding it.  Sanding an asbestos ceiling would release large quanties of airborne asbestos - the most dangerous kind.  Asbestos has been known to cause asbestosis and mesothelioma.

Technique for Sanding Stipple Ceilings

1.  Use an electric, light-duty sander with a dust bag.  Slowly move back and forth over an area using 80 grit sandpaper.   It is important to purchase a sander with a wide pad that you can hold over your head for some period of time.  Orbital sanders work best [see our recommendation below].  You can either choose to sand the ceiling totally smooth, or you can “knock down” the stipple to a more subtle pattern.  If you like the “knocked down” look, it is fast and easy to produce and it is MUCH easier to get to look good.   If you are planning to sand the ceiling flat, you should first use an electric sander to knock down the ceiling, and then a poll sander with 120 grit, then with 200 grit  to finish the job.  It is too easy to scar the drywall paper with an electric sander, so stop after the 80 grit.

We recommend the DEWALT D26451K 3 Amp 5-Inch Random Orbit Sander for for this job.   You can also purchase the assorted sandpapers pack (10 Each Of 80/100/120/150/220) which will give you everything you need for the ceiling job, and will give you extra for future jobs.

2.  Use a poll sander.  This will save you from holding the electric sander over your head, but will require ALOT more sanding to get the job done.  You should look for 60 grit paper to start.  If you are satisfied with “knocking down” the stipple, you can stop with 60 grit when the subtle pattern looks good.  If you want a smooth finished ceiling, you’ll need to move to 120 grit, then to 200 grit.

Here’s a picture of what a stipple ceiling looks like after an electric sander has been used to create a more subtle pattern.  This look is great, because it still hides faults in the drywall, but doesn’t feel like it’s “coming down on you” like traditional stipple.

As with all jobs like this, you should try the technique in an area that’s not visible from the living space, like inside a closet.

Popcorn Ceiling photo courtesy of tmlens.

Have you ever wanted to create a basement that has an industrial ceiling look (the one that has become popular in many commercial businesses, especially restaurants?).  Instead of installing a drop ceiling or a drywall ceiling in the basement, you might consider using an airless paint sprayer to paint the joists, ductwork, and beams.  You could try to do the job with brushes and paint rollers, but it would be simply impractical.  There are too many angles involved to get it to look good using that method.

What color should I choose?  The ceilings I’ve seen done this way are either flat black, very dark brown, or white.  A darker color will tend to hide imperfections in the ceiling, but may also lead to the room feeling much smaller.  A lighter color may show more imperfections, but will make the room feel for open, and will make the ceiling seem higher.  You might also consider using an accent color (like a red or green) for the ductwork and other accent marks.

What Airless Paint Sprayer should I use?  We recommend the Wagner Spray Tech II 2,750 PSI Paint Crew Sprayer. That link will take you to Amazon’s page of refurbished units that cost about 40% ($80.00) less than buying new at Home Depot.  The advantages of this particular sprayer include the hopper being located on the ground, and a long spray hose.  If you’re going to paint the ceiling, you don’t want to be holding the paint itself above your head for long as some sprayers would require; it will get very tiresome.

What about electric wires?  Normally, electric for lighting would be hidden by drywall or a drop ceiling.  You will probably need to run wires in conduit if you leave the ceiling beams exposed.  Of course, requirements vary by locale.  You should always consult with a licensed electrician before finishing an electric project in your home.

Our friend Chuck just wrote a guest post on painting his basement ceiling white. I’m a much bigger fan of the flat black look, but Chuck wanted the room to feel open and airy.

What do you think?  Will you consider an industrial ceiling look for your home?  Have you already done this?

This week’s Before and After is brought to you from a coworker and friend, Miesha. Miesha recently asked Kim and I for some help installing a new ceramic tile floor in her bathroom (the subject of several later posts).

Unfortunately, in prepping the subfloor for tile, she made some beginner mistakes requiring her to rip up some concrete board.  The before picture here shows the bathroom after the original concrete board had been pretty well destroyed. 

But, four short days after that before picture was taken, the floor was looking great.  Take a look and let Miesha know what you think!

Before:

After:

OK, now it’s your turn.  Link in your Before and After posts below, and then leave a comment on this one.

Removing a tree stump is hard work! I know this because I recently tried. A friend asked me to lend a hand taking the stump out of his back yard. After about 6 hours of work we accepted defeat. Check out the pictures from out attempt. So how do you deal with that ugly stump?

Rent a grinder

Equipment rentals will rent out stump grinders. My friend checked and it would run about $200. Unless you have a trailer hitch, expect to pay for delivery too. Be sure you’re comfortable operating the equipment and always wear eye / ear protection. If you’re working on several stumps, this option can save you some money. For one stump, it’s not really worthwhile.

Fill the Stump with Nitrates

Nitrates speed up decomposition. Drill deep holes and fill with Stump Remover. Cover the stump with plastic to trap moisture. Repeat the process on a regular basis. This is an easy option but definitely not a speedy one. I heard this can take over a year before the stump is ready to come up. I wish I had that kind of patience.

Hire a Stump Removal Contractor

My friend contacted about seven companies in the area. Some took his information, with others he left a message. But only two companies produced estimates. The first company is called Tree Pros. They were courteous and timely. Tree Pros offered to remove an obstructing fence, grind down the stump and clean up for a very reasonable price. A few days later another company quoted $450 (an unreasonable price) not including clean up or anything to do with the fence.

Burn It

You’ll find mixed instructions online about burning stumps. Some say it’s too dangerous. Others say it doesn’t work. And still others claim it’s easy and relatively quick. Obviously you have to be careful whenever dealing with fire and flamable materials. Underground roots can burn and smolder for quite some time. Just because you don’t see flames doens’t mean the fire is out. One recurring solution involved putting a high barrier around the stump, filling with wood, soaking in kerosene and burning it. Sounds like an awesome campfire to me!

What do you think? Anyone ever burn out a stump? I’m really curious how well it works. If not, what solution did you try?

This guest post comes from a co-worker and friend, Chuck.  This post is the detailed follow-up from Sunday’s Before and After featuring Chuck’s basement ceiling. With no further introduction, here’s Chuck’s post:

In an effort to upgrade my unfinished basement, I wanted an alternative to acoustic tile or a drywall ceiling.  Fred told me of his tentative plans to paint his open basement ceiling dark brown. After some research, I decided to go with a light color to keep a more open feeling. Airless spraying seemed the only viable option to achieve this, and Fred offered me the use of his Wagner Airless Sprayer.  Here’s a picture of the ceiling before the job:

My plans were to spray a primer followed by a flat, off-white paint. I had some Killz2 primer left over from a previous project, so I decided to get more of the same for this one. I’m sure any primer/sealer for bare wood would work.

I was hoping that 2½ gallons would cover the area, but the open beams and bare wood took almost 7 gallons to cover with a light second coat. 5 gallons of flat latex paint was enough for a first and second coat over the primer.  Overall, I’m very pleased with the results.  My wife will use this as her craft workshop for stamping, and with a some more finish work, it should work very well for that. Here’s what the ceiling looked like after the job:

How-To, Tips, and Lessons Learned for Spraying the Ceiling

1.  Isolate your work area with drop cloths on the floor and hanging plastic sheets covering the walls / other areas.  Paint sprayers produce some overspray, and you’ll want to protect all the surrounding areas from paint dust.  Cheap .3 mil plastic sheeting from Walmart works great and is only $1.39 for a 9′ x 12′ sheet. 

2. Use an airless sprayer. Attempting this job with canned spray paint or a traditional brush and roller will not yield good results. The airless sprayer I used is particularly nice because the hopper is on the ground with a long, pressurized hose leading to a lightweight nozzle.   (Some airless sprayers hold the paint in the nozzle area).

2. Set up fans for ventilation so that air from the area you are painting is pulled outside. No matter how well you isolate your work area you will get some overspray, but this should help minimize it.

3. Cover the outside of the paint sprayer, hose, and spray handle with spray silicone to make clean up easier. Cleaning up the painter sprayer was very tedious. After cleaning it up from the primer I decided to put a light coating of spray silicon on the body of painter and spray handle. The silicon prevented the paint from sticking and made cleanup the second time much easier.

4. If the ceiling is a bare wood ceiling, it will require a lot of extra primer/paint. I needed 7½ gallons of primer and 5 gallons of paint on an area 20 X 25 ft area. (Remember, with joists the surface area is more than two times that of a flat ceiling).

Additional Painted I-Beam Joist Pictures

Here’s some additional before pics of the unpainted joists and steel i-beam:

The following pictures shows the hanging plastic sheeting from the ceiling, essential to keeping the overspray from floating into other areas:

And finally, here’s some additional finished shots, and one showing a side-by-side comparison of the before and after shots:

What do you think?  Are you planning to paint your basement ceiling?  Does Chuck’s experience make you more or less likely to pursue this route?

This week’s Before and After is brought to you from my coworker and friend, Chuck.  You may remember Chuck from the emergency water heater replacement we performed at my house a few weeks ago. 

Chuck recently painted his basement ceiling beams with my Wagner airless paint sprayer.  He was going for an open, slightly industrial look.  Painting the beams is a much easier alternative to installing a finished ceiling and if you like the industrial style, I think it’s an excellent choice. 

Chuck wrote an entire post for OPC about his experience painting the ceiling; that post will run on Tuesday this week.  So, if you’re interested in the details (they are good), stop back by around Tuesday @ 8:00am.  But for now, take a look at these fantastic before and after photos.

Before:

After:

OK, It’s your turn!  Link in your Before and After posts below and leave a comment before you leave!