Install a Ceiling Fan Mount Bracket & Electric Box
Ever since we moved to this house, Kim and I have been longing for a master bedroom ceiling fan. In our first home, we had a Hampton Bay fan hanging over the foot of our bed. We grew accustomed to having the white noise & gentle air circulation usher us to sleep each night. Since our new home didn’t come with this feature, we’ve had a floor fan running almost every night. It’s not a perfect substitute for a ceiling fan, but it works.
You can imagine our delight when Home Depot contacted us and asked us to pick out and review a ceiling fan from the hundreds they offer. We’d love to jump right into a review, but the reality is we had to follow a few steps to get this fan installed. So, this is the first in a series of three or four articles on ceiling fan installation that wll conclude with that review. After you’re done here, you might check out Home Depot’s YouTube video on installing and replacing a ceiling fan. Home Depot regularly publishes YouTube videos on common household projects. If you like what you read here, you might consider subscribing to their YouTube feed.
The Environment for Our Installation
In our current home, our master bedroom is on the top floor and has attic access. The room had no overhead lighting. In fact, nearly every room in our home has a wall switch wired to a nearby receptacle, a common cost-savings strategy builders use to avoid paying for light fixtures. Since we wanted that switch to control our fan and future overheads lights, we had to rewire the switch and run electric up the wall to a ceiling mount box. I’ll cover repurposing the switch and running electric up into the ceiling in a later article. This article focuses on the first step of installing a ceiling fan in a room that didn’t previously have a fan: installing a ceiling fan electric box strong enough to hold the fan.
Selecting a Ceiling Fan Eletrical Box System
There are two types of ceiling fan mount kits: those designed to mount directly to the side of a joist, and those designed to be suspended between joists. Our attic consists of a 2×4 truss system with each truss spaced 24 inches on center (a common attic setup). Without measuring to find the center of the room in advance, we knew the odds were good that the fan box would need to sit between two joists. If the center of the room happened to fall on a joist, we could move the box 2 inches off that joist without creating a visual detractor in the room. So, we opted to buy a mount system designed to suspend between two joists. (This later proved a good decision, the center of the room is between two joists).
We chose the Westinghouse Saf-T-Brace for its promise of simple, quick installation, and relatively inexpensive price ($14.95 from the local HD). When suspended between joists 24 inches on center, the Saf-T-Brace is rated to hold 50 lbs. This correlated to the minimum strength required by the ceiling fan we picked. (At 16 inches, the rating increases to 150 lbs. If we wanted to hang a heavier fan, we would have simply added some blocking to the joists.)
The Saf-T-Brace turned out to be an extremely well-engineered system. You can see in the picture below the brace consists of a square metal shaft with a corkscrew-style expansion bar. Each end of the Saf-T-Bar has a triangular plastic piece that sits on the overhead drywall to ensure proper vertical spacing. The ends terminate with a circular metal component with spikes that dig into the joists on both ends. The result: a brace between the joists strong enough to support a fan.
How to Install a Ceiling Fan Box Between Joists
Here’s the simple steps we followed to install the ceiling mount box. Note that these instructions are not a replacement for the ones that come with the Saf-T-Bar. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions when performing home improvement projects.
- Step 1: Measure to find the center of the room and mark the center point with a pencil.
- Step 2: Use a stud finder to ensure that no joist is close to the center point, and that two joists will be reachable by the Saf-T-Bar within a 24″ span.
Step 3: Hold the metal ceiling fan box that comes with the Saf-T-Bar to the ceiling, centered on the pencil mark. Trace the ceiling box with a pencil so that the ceiling box shape is on the ceiling.- Step 4: Use a drywall saw to pierce and cut out the shape of the box in the ceiling.
- Step 5: Move any insulation impeding your access to the joists on either side of the mounting box. This may be easier to do from the attic-side depending on the type of insulation. (Note, the Saf-T-Bar claims that one doesn’t need attic access for the installation, but we think its much easier if you have the access to go ahead and use it).
Step 6: Push the Saf-T-Bar into the ceiling and start unscrewing the cork screw to expand the shaft. Ensure that the Saf-T-Bar stays centered over your access hole while unscrewing the shaft. Keep unscrewing the shaft until a strong bond is reached between the ends of the shaft and the nearby joists.- Step 7: Place the U-shaped bracket over the rectangular section of the shaft and screw the mounting box to U-shaped bracket.
- Step 8: Remove one of the punch-outs on the box and run electric into the box (note: a wire holding insert for the punch-out is included).
- Step 9: Replace the insulation and continue the installation from the room below.
What do you think? Have you installed a ceiling mount box in your home? Leave a message here and let us know your experience.
Comments & Conversation on this Article...
32 Responses to Install a Ceiling Fan Mount Bracket & Electric Box
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November 26th, 2008 9:33 am
This, for me, was one of those projects that had me wondering what the previous owners were thinking.
In my house, they had replaced the existing ceiling fixtures with office-like fluorescent tubes(!). Efficient, but not very attractive. However, none of the electrical work had been replaced.
Nearly the whole house (built ca. 1935) is wired with the old-style knob & tube wiring, and the boxes are all “old project” electrical fixtures, which are smaller and shallower than the modern jobbies. So the first thing we had to do was replace the boxes, since nothing from the fans fit correctly.
This was no easy project, as the house had plaster ceilings over lath, which had subsequently been covered by concealed-spline 12×12 tiles. In at least once case, I had to use a box cutter to widen the hole in the tile to about a 10″ circle just to see what I was doing. Then it was a matter of finding a means of bracing the new box in the ceiling somehow. In some cases (I’ve done this in three rooms so far, with at least one more to go), this meant sistering the joist so that the box would be well-mounted; in another it appeared that the box was attached to nothing at all. How the fixture never fell is a mystery. I wound up making a bigger hole in the ceiling (at least a foot all around), breaking up a bunch of plaster, then taking a piece of 3/4″ plywood and drilling a hole in it to accommodate the wire. I used about ten screws to attach this to the lathing and then screwed the electrical box directly to the plywood. It wasn’t pretty but it was sturdy. Because of all the damage I’d caused, I had to use ceiling medallions to cover up the holes which were now much larger than the fan canopies.
Usually a ceiling fan is about an hour’s worth of work for me, but in this house I’ve never managed it in under four hours.
November 27th, 2008 1:45 pm
Claude–Thanks for sharing the story! Working with plaster certainly adds to the challenge – no question about that! Glad to hear you’ve been successfully… the plywood idea seems like a good one to me.
Our fan install took about 3 hours to add the box, run the electric, and install the fan. If you’ve got the first two parts done, an hour is usually enough to get the job done.
February 12th, 2009 11:39 pm
[...] we cut a hole in our ceiling and added a fan brace and mounting box. This proved to be much easier than we expected with Westinghouse’s Saf-T-Brace [...]
March 4th, 2009 3:31 pm
I’ve installed several ceiling fans and now my wife would like a ceiling fan in our family room. The only problem is, we have ceiling cable heat in this house and I’d really hate to cut a wire and short the room out. So is this a safe/feasible project or should I just tell her to forget it.
March 6th, 2009 8:55 pm
Ron, I’m not familiar with ceiling cable heat, so I can’t answer for sure. If there’s a risk of cutting the cable while installing the mount box, then I would say you’ve got a predicament. If you can work around it, leaving a safe distance, you’ll probably be fine.
April 2nd, 2009 8:29 pm
How would you install a box to support a ceiling fan on a beam? Would you recommend just putting screws straight up? Is there some kind of bracket that stradle the beam, so screws can go in the sides?
Thanks
Bob
April 2nd, 2009 10:28 pm
Bob, There are both top-mount and side-mount ceiling fan boxes that will attach directly to the beam. You should be able to find a good selection at one of the local home improvement stores, but the bracket is *not* the only way to go.
May 17th, 2009 7:19 pm
I just installed a ceiling fan in my daughter’s room. This was a first for me, and I made more mistakes than what I did right. However, in the end, I think it is going to be ok. (There isnt much insulation in that part of the attic any more, but, you know, stuff happens.)
The last big issue is the canopy. The part that it is supposed to hook on to is up in the ceiling – apparently we needed a deeper box. However, there is NO WAY I am going to take it all down and try again. Anyone have any ideas for how I can stick the canopy to the medallion [which is plastic and glued to the ceiling...yeah, we had lots of issues:) ]?? Thanks in advance for your time!
May 17th, 2009 8:17 pm
Aprille, Can you give a little more details on the project? It’s hard to visualize exactly what your problem is from what you described here… Is the issue that you can’t get the fan to hang on the box?
May 18th, 2009 11:45 am
Well, not exactly.
We had to install a brace in the ceiling, because the rafter was not close. Then the box hung on to the brace. Then we attached the bracket on to the box, and then the fan on to the bracket. The fan is now hanging and is operational. The problem is that the bracket that the fan is hanging on is recessed into the ceiling a bit – we didnt realize that it should not be flush with the ceiling. So, when we went to put the canopy on it, there was no way to get to it with a screwdriver and put the screws in (except to hack away way too much of the ceiling). So the canopy is just hanging on the downrod and all the wires show and stuff.
I tried to glue the canopy to the medallion with epoxy, but it wouldnt stick.
I thought about gluing styrofoam to the medallion and very gently putting the screws into the foam – because the canopy isn’t weight bearing, only for looks – but then I got afraid the foam would melt.
This is what happens when you try to jury-rig something!
June 1st, 2009 11:11 pm
Aprille, from what you described, it sounds like your best option is to install a spacer between the box and the bracket. The wiring will be covered by the canopy anyway, and it should get the brace low enough to be able to properly mount the canopy. You can find spacers at any of the big boxes, and you should be able to find some screws that are 1/2″ to 1″ longer than the ones that shipped standard.
Unfortunately, that’s my best guess without seeing it.
Fred
June 17th, 2009 1:39 pm
Hi, I am trying to install a saf-t-brace model 1400 for a ceiling fan. I installed the bracket/rod between the 2 boards. this is fine, but when i install the box onto the bracket, I try to secure it with the 2 locknuts. It tells you not to force them. I managed just to get them on the bolt part way. It wont go any further. The electrical box hangs loosely. Is this normal?
June 17th, 2009 11:41 pm
Sally,
Can’t say for sure without pictures and being there, but my guess is no. Locking nuts usually have a rubber-like material in the threads that prevents them from being hand tightened. You should use a wrench / ratchet to tighten the nuts. You don’t want to over-tighten, but the box definitely shouldn’t hang loose. Hope that helps!
Fred
June 27th, 2009 5:06 pm
Anyone aware of a smaller version of the Saf-T Brace. My joists are spaced 12″ aparts, and I’ll I can find is the one of 16-24″ spacings.
August 13th, 2009 1:32 pm
I am trying to install fans in my home. There is no attic and the crawl space above the cieling is about 12 inches, in other words no access. I am trying to find the Saf-T-Brace but cannot find one. Home Depot, Lowes, and even Dixieline do not have them in stock. Anyone know where I can find one? I may have to special order it.
Also, I have the same problem with the light switch controlling the outlets in the room. Did you have to destroy the drywall to re-wire the switch for the fan? I am going to attempt using fish tape to feed the cables through. Thanks
August 20th, 2009 1:45 pm
Is there any quick fix to installing a ceiling fan to a Cathedral Ceiling that already has drywall?
August 26th, 2009 1:55 pm
Quick Fix? Not really but you can use the saf-t-brace. Just use a stud finder to locate the centerline between to studs. Outline the juction box onto the cieling and cut out with a key hole saw. If you need to run the power cable I Recommend using a fish tape, this is what I had to do because the is no over head access. Make sure your downrod for the fan takes the blades past the angled ceiling. If you cannot access a switch for the fan you can purchase remote for around 30 bucks. REMEMBER to set the dip switches prior to hanging the fan or you will have to start over. If you have no idea what a dip switch is right now, it will be obvious once you purchase the remote. You can use the remote on the light as well. Just follow the instructions on the box if you need to. I use a remote in my living room, i can dim the light and even adjust the fan speed. I highly recommend the remote but make sure it comes with a holder that can be mounted to the wall. If you have questions shoot this way.
August 26th, 2009 2:15 pm
Thanks Steve, forgot to mention that I already have a junction box and it’s wired for a fan as well as the former light that I removed, both running to a wall switch. I bought a new fan with light. Then I used a 18″ downrod, but the opening in canopy wouldn’t allow the fan to hang vertical because of the way the junction box is currently installed in the Cathderal ceiling. However, I think I may have found a solution for the slanted ceiling. Here’s a website http://www.aifittings.com/n_4.htm The only missing part now is to get up in the attic and find out how to attach this mounting box to a rafter.
August 29th, 2009 12:17 pm
Are there any Safe-T-Brace for joists spaced 12 inch apart?
September 12th, 2009 9:12 pm
Hey, great info..
I am wondering how to use the saf-t-brace system.. Im installing a new fan and want to use this type of box. Do the legs just get pushed up against each joist? Or are u supposed to use screws aswell? Is so, how are you supposed to screw it? Do you bend the tabs out before u install the box or after??
So confused, please help.
Thanks,
Lou
September 13th, 2009 10:15 pm
Hey Lou – the legs just push up against the brace (they are serrated)… No Screws.
Thanks for reading.
Fred
September 19th, 2009 4:40 pm
i just installed one of these today, very easy. after i hand tightened the brace, i used channel locks and gave it a turn ot 2. is that ok?
September 26th, 2009 11:40 pm
Joe – Yep, you should be good to go.
September 27th, 2009 3:40 pm
I looked on the westinghouse site, I too have 12 inches between my joists. I don’t see a product. Is there another recommendation?
December 7th, 2009 9:07 pm
HELLO I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THEIR IS ANY PLACE TO BUY A CEILING FAN MOUNT. I AM IN THE PROCESS OF REPAIRING A HOUSE AND WE TOOK THE OLD FANS DOWN TO PAINT AND A FAN MOUNT GOT THROW AWAY. THE MOUNT NEEDS TO BE 11″ ACROSS AND WHERE THE MOTOR MOUNTS OR SLIDES INTO THE FAN BRACKET IS 1 5/8 ” ANY HELP IN WHERE I COULD BUY ONE WOULD BE APPRECIATED THANKS BILL
December 10th, 2009 12:42 pm
My ceiling fan box is shy of being flush with the 1/2″ sheet rock. Can’t completely tighten bracket to box without destroying the rock. If I leave it this way will it cause wobble?? The box is secure and rated for ceiling fan. It is wobbling and balancing the blades is proving difficult. any advice?? Thanks
January 1st, 2010 12:34 am
Make sure you’re tightening each side of the bracket evenly. Hold the brace flush with the ceiling and then tighten the screws evenly all the way up. If you still have problems getting a tight fit try smaller (or longer) screws for the brace. If all else fails you may need to re-aline your box. The balancing kit that comes with the fans are for minor adjustments only. If the wobble is noticable, normally, the kit will not help. On a side note, make sure all of the blades are nice and tight and evenly spaced apart. If even one blade is loose you will have balance problems. Hope this helps.
January 28th, 2010 3:00 pm
Our hanging light fixture in our kitchen let go last night. The previous owners had used a plastic box nailed to a joist and the plactic broke. The ceiling is vaulted and angled and I have no access from above and the nearest other joist is over 2.5 feet away. How do I fix this so I again have light in my kitchen? Help
January 28th, 2010 10:58 pm
Bryan, it would help if you sent a picture… you can do this through our forums (look at the link above)…. You may have to pull some drywall out, put in a new box, and patch the drywall.
February 8th, 2010 4:10 am
I installed the Westinghouse Saf-T-Brace/box/bar. Are the two 10-32 screws holding the entire weight of the fan? Or am I missing a piece? Seems like when I installed one years ago the box had a hook that the pin on the downrod of the fan went through to hold the weight and swung from that. What is the thread pullout force on a 10-32 screw if one were to fail during an earthquake load? Would the single remaining 10-32 screw hold the fan at this point so it would not fall and injure someone?
My box is not flush with the plasterboard. Are the two hex female stand-offs provided with the Saf-T-box for this purpose? If so, can you cut them to give the right spacing and then I assume the 10-32 screws through the spacers and on into the threads of the box to hold the fan mounting bracket. The fan comes with two short screws and washers. I see using the longer 10-32 screws or even to replace them if longer ones are even needed. Just thought there used to be a hook in the box to pickup the horizontal pin in the fan verticle downrod. This would be the safest and make it bullet proof but then there is the wiring coming throught downrod which could rub and eventually short. Thanks for any clarification you can provide.
March 10th, 2010 3:38 pm
Do you know if these work with engineered joists?
March 11th, 2010 9:26 pm
Patrick, we’ve never done this, but I would think it will work. You would be tightening the hanger between the pieces of wood on the bottom.