I haven’t been giving my shed rebuild too much coverage. If you didn’t know, we already have a very good series on sheds covering everything from building different foundations, to building the shed, adding shelves, building a ramp and more. Last time we left off I was framing the walls and having a “fun” time matching the angle of my deck stairs.

After getting that back wall framed, the front wall went much faster because it had a lot of similar cuts. I opted for a wider doorway and sacrificed a little height because I wanted it to be easy to maneuver a mower in and out. Unfortunately, I’ve already smacked my head a couple of times on that 2×4.

The main reason for the blocking was to maintain the spacing between studs because I couldn’t just mark that top plate in the usual fashion.

The two side walls were straight forward with the only exception being that I ripped the top plate to match the roof angle.

The siding is T1-11, and it’s the same stuff Steve Wartman and his crew used for that shed build. I cut it so that it overlapped the band board, adjacent wall framing and the roof framing.

I measured and cut the siding for the front wall, but did not attach it because I needed to be able to slide the roof into place first.

Fred and a couple of friends helped me frame out the main portion of the roof.

I decided to use corrugated metal for the roof instead of shingle.

We attached a ridge vent and corrugated metal to the framing out in the open.

The roofing is attached with screws that include rubber washers to seal out water. We then slide the roof in place, and I joined the framing with nails through the underside of the top plate.

I trimmed the entire roof and doorway with Azek.

The corners are another PVC trim product, and I used it because there was limited space between the shed and the pressure-treated ” retaining wall”.

For the door I used scrap pieces of flooring and the T1-11 I cut out for the doorway, and I’m really happy with how it turned out.

I still have a few things to caulk, and I want to reuse the old pavers in front of the doorway. I think it looks really good, and the next big rainstorm will tell me if it’s watertight.

I sealed the joint between the corrugated metal and the PVC with silicone.

The door trim, jambs and door stop are all Azek PVC, and no that is not blood in the corner.

Here’s a look at the OSB, T1-11, PVC sandwich door.

Inside the shed I’ve already started storing a few items, and you can see the sweet Gladiator Geartrack compliments of Ace Hardware. It’s heavy-duty enough that I can hang just about anything. So far I only have rakes and some lawn and garden tools.

The hooks can be positioned along the entire length of the track.

Ace also sent me this Porch Light, and it’s a terrific addition to the shed. It’s a motion-activated, LED light that only comes on at night (or when the shed door is closed). It’s perfect for illuminating the shed when I need it, and I highly recommend this light for anyone else in a similar situation.

The tools need to make their way back to the OPC shop before I can get the mower (and anything else) squared away.

I was able to branch the electric going to a rear flood light and setup an outlet in the shed for charging batteries. However, I’m keeping the batteries inside for the winter.

I’m pretty stoked about my shed, and I’m proud to have built it myself. I’ll be even happier when I know for sure it’s watertight. The next big rainstorm here in Maryland will find me huddled in the shed staring at the roof.